Knife scale finish

[BeeAMaker]

Just finished my cheese knife with some spalted maple from my property (stabilized).

My questions is - what do you recommend I use as a finish?
CA, Shellawax, hand rub lacquer? I'm open - will one make it "pop' more than the other?

thanks!

 

[dogcatcher]

I would use a oil finish, teak oil or Danish oil. For this I would use teak oil, it is my go to finish for a lot of stuff. Made for outdoor use, has UV protection in the mix, and pretty durable. Instead of writing out instructions go to Google and look up "Frank Whiton Classic Gunstock Finish". His method is similar to mine. The first coat is important, dilute it like his instructions. The waiting time between coats is also important, you CANNOT rush this finish process. If you have it on hand you can use Danish oil or Tru-Oil, but if not pick up the small can of Watco Teak at Lowes or Home Depot, about $9 for a 16oz can.

I would first use a test piece of wood and try the finish to see if you like it. I know what I like, but you may not like it like I do. If you want a shine, you can keep adding coats until you get the shine you want.

 

[Herb G]

I'd be more likely to use a satin wipe on poly finish. It will protect it well against water or stains.

 

[BeeAMaker]

Thanks for the suggestions, the wood has been stabilized - so will it still absorb an oil finish?

 

[KenV]

Since the wood is plastic infused, any thing you add will be layered on top.

I polish and use an auto protectorant (Rejex) to up the shine durability a bit.

No to the dishwasher.

 

[Herb G]

Poly will adhere to stabilized wood. That's why I suggested it.
Oil will not penetrate whatsoever.
(If it was stabilized correctly to begin with.)

 

[Dai Sensei]

I use Rustins Plastic Finish, food safe and doesn't mind water or heat.

 

[Hubert H]

I second Rejex. It works over most all finishes.

 

[Woodchipper]

No to the dishwasher.

Never put sharp cutlery in the dishwasher. Banging together with other things will dull it quicker than you can say "Scat!" Chefs will use their dullest knife on a person putting cutlery in the DW. It took 40 years to get my wife to wash cutlery by hand and dry it.
Plus, the points poked holes in the dish rack and starts rust!
FWIW, my wife worked with a girl who complained about her cast iron skillets rusting. In the conversation, it was discovered that she put it in the DW! She said anything that needs washed goes in the DW. Another no-no!

 

[MikeL]

Since this post is a little old, you may have already tried a finish. If not and you have buffing wheels I would sand and buff since it's stabilized. I've used the beal buffing system ( three step buffing finishing with wax) on my stabilized knife handles.

 

[BeeAMaker]

Since this post is a little old, you may have already tried a finish. If not and you have buffing wheels I would sand and buff since it's stabilized. I've used the beal buffing system ( three step buffing finishing with wax) on my stabilized knife handles.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions, yes I have already decided on a finish.
After realizing (as mentioned by a few others) the stabilizing was going to limit my choices, I went with a simple CA finish. A couple of wipe on coats for thin CA, 2000 grit sanding and then high speed buff, turned out nice.

I choose not to use the Rivets, so It will be interesting to see how long the epoxy holds up. Obviously - no dish washers allowed

 

[mmayo]

Beale buffs rock

Since this post is a little old, you may have already tried a finish. If not and you have buffing wheels I would sand and buff since it's stabilized. I've used the beal buffing system ( three step buffing finishing with wax) on my stabilized knife handles.

I think that will amaze you with the feel and the shine. It IS protected already due to stabilization.