kitless beginner questions

[hooked]

Hi. I just finished my first kitless pen. I had a blast figuring this one out and can see why this is addicting. I recently joined in on the IAP tap/die group buy and wanted to get some practice while waiting for my order. So I purchased some cheaper single start taps/die to get an idea of what is involved.

My first attempt, I think, was pretty good. However, I did encounter some issues and had a few questions that I am hoping to ask.

1- What is the best lubricant for tap/die use? I used Renaissance Wax on my first pen. I notice that my threads look very "raw," It seems pretty apparent that I shouldn't sand or mess with the threads too much. Is there a method or lubricant to get cleaner-looking threads? I cut my tenon, chamfered the tenon, applied a liberal amount of renaissance wax to the tenon and die, ran the die, flipped the die, and reran it.

2- I noticed that my Jowo #6 tap is M7.5 x .5. When I was looking online, I saw that another online retailer sells a Jowo #6 tap that is M7.4 x .5. The nib seems to fit fine, perhaps not quite as tight as the cap threads, but I assumed it was sloppy tapping. I do want to be sure I have the right tap. Can someone verify, please?

3- I am not a fountain pen user and did not order ink supplies. Does the section need to be as long as I made it? I have made another section with neon yellow material to see through. Does there need to be so much space behind the nib? I find that my cap fits right up against the nib's tip, and I think if I shortened the section a bit, it would fit better. Maybe less threads on the body for the cap would be better?

Thank you for any advice!
M14 x 1
M11 x .75
Jowo #6

 

[PatrickR]

I've only made 7 so far but here is what works for me
I am using canola oil. It works fine but mice really like it. I'll switch to mineral oil next. Fully polish the tenon and return. Liberally coat the tenon and die, 2-4 turns and back it up (not off), clean away the swarf a re lube, repeat until finished. I turn the die back and forth a lot quickly while it is fully lubed because I think it polishes the thread with the die. Take the die off and lube then use a piece of sewing thread and draw it back and forth (lathe off) through the threads in a sawing motion to clean and polish. Clean away all the lube with dna and then don't do anything else to them. Works for me.

Number of threads - I like 6-7 but that's subjective. You can adjust the number of turns by drilling away some of the female threads.
Section length - again subjective. I see some that are pretty short. I prefer a longer grip.

 

[hooked]

Thank you. Beautiful pen! I can see when comparing that I am putting too many threads on the body for the cap. If I cut those back, I will get the clearance inside the cap. I love the idea of sewing string as well. I think that would help a great deal with my threads.

I was reading about canola oil spray and mineral oil. It sounds messy, but I will give it a try.

 

[PatrickR]

Oil can be a messy but necessary. If the swarf comes out looking dry you have cut too much without re applying. You can not over lube. I lay a paper towel under the work and apply it with an acid brush. All of my kitless so far have had wood in them, so i Use some tape to keep any oil out of it.
mineral isn't affected by temp and my shop is not heated, another reason I'm going to switch.
of all the materials i have threaded so far ebonite makes the nicest ones.

 

[Fred Bruche]

I tried a number of the lubricants, including the ones mentioned above. They work but they can leave residues that can be a pita to clean, and not water-soluble. I've switched to this a few months ago and I won't go back to the oily stuff. No commercial conflict of interest to disclose

 

[PatrickR]

I tried a number of the lubricants, including the ones mentioned above. They work but they can leave residues that can be a pita to clean, and not water-soluble. I've switched to this a few months ago and I won't go back to the oily stuff. No commercial conflict of interest to disclose

Fred, good to hear that this works well. Next time i order from Beaufort I'll get some.

 

[mredburn]

The 7.5 x .5 will work just fine instead of the 7.4 x .5. There is only a .004 difference in .1mm. THe plastic housings are not made that accurately. You may find quite a few that are out of round as you turn them in. Also the commeridal kits have a lot of slop in the threads if you start looking at them.

 

[hooked]

Thank you all! I do have some Anchorlube coming this week. Rick Herrell recommended it to me for some heat issues I experienced with drilling. I was thinking of trying it to see if it works better for tapping as well. I will order the lube from Beaufort if it doesn't do the trick.

 

[Scry]

Hi. I just finished my first kitless pen. I had a blast figuring this one out and can see why this is addicting. I
My first attempt, I think, was pretty good. However, I did encounter some issues and had a few questions that I am hoping to ask.

1- What is the best lubricant for tap/die use? I used Renaissance Wax on my first pen. I notice that my threads look very "raw," It seems pretty apparent that I shouldn't sand or mess with the threads too much. Is there a method or lubricant to get cleaner-looking threads? I cut my tenon, chamfered the tenon, applied a liberal amount of renaissance wax to the tenon and die, ran the die, flipped the die, and reran it.


3- I am not a fountain pen user and did not order ink supplies. Does the section need to be as long as I made it? I have made another section with neon yellow material to see through. Does there need to be so much space behind the nib? I find that my cap fits right up against the nib's tip, and I think if I shortened the section a bit, it would fit better. Maybe less threads on the body for the cap would be better?

So for all my tenon threads I use a liberal amount of Outers 445 gun oil - if the oil starts running out towards the end of the tenon I'll reapply to keep the threads as clean as possible. I don't reverse the die especially on section threads since; A. It's tricky to line up, B. I'm trying to keep as much material on there as possible. There's less than a mm or two of material once it's all cut and drilled. To finish my threads, depending on how big or small I cut my tenon and consequently the threads, I'll go and lightly micromesh from appx. 3200 git to the highest. After that, I take it to a clean buffing wheel and that knocks out 99% of whatever gunk left between the threads and gives it a nice shine. Whatever's left I use a needle and rake it out.

So for your section, you really don't need it to be that long. Realistically it will only be as long as your nib housing, with the tenon threads long enough to house your converter. (See attached photos) I would advise not having the tip of the nib making contact with the lid, as eventually ink gets everywhere and fountain pen ink is notoriously hard to wash put of skin and clothes. Weirdly enough though most inks won't stand a chance against water when on a page though....
On a side note though, try and find a midpoint between body tenon length and how you want your cap to fit. I cut a relief on the inside of my caps so I don't have to cut a relief behind my threads which makes the pen weaker, but that also means the cap goes further on before the threads begin making contact with each other.

Hope this helps!

My converter is a Schmidt international k5 high capacity converter if that helps and the inks I use are sailor sei boku (blue-black) and sailor kiwaguro (black). Kiwaguro is one of the best black inks you can get, doesn't fade exceptionally water resistant, and is pretty black. Sei boku has the same qualities maybe a bit more water resistant, but is more blue than blue-black.