Kit less Barrell

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Are we talking a fountain pen? IF you look in the library there is a pen bushing chart that shows the popular lengths of the tubes for different style pens. I will attach it here as a pdf. I have clients that make the lower tube 2.40 inches long to make sure the converter will fit. I have attached two of the charts I keep on my desk top for reference. the bushing and tube chart and the conversion chart for drill sizes.

Mike
 

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I think conventionally the fountain pens are made to hold one cartridge and a spare. Converters are shorter than that. For rollerball it is determined by the length of the refill, and yes, I use a spring.

Tom
 
For fountain pens you can make them as short or long as you want, depending on the filling system. There are eye dropper fillers that can be very short, ones that take a single cartridge or short converter and ones that take longer converters.

For rollerballs or a capped ball point you as have many length choices as you can find refills. And you could go longer if as long as you have an insert to support a spring.

The kitless world of penmaking allows just about any dimensions, large or small. All you need is creativity. I try to let the design dictate the length and find or make the rest of the parts to fit.

Here's one a did a while ago...
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  • Snake on snake.jpg
    Snake on snake.jpg
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I believe the pen Bruce posted utilized tubes. For the casting of the snake skins. I also believe Bruce makes some poems that are tubeless. I've made a few that didn't have tubes. A lot of whether or not you need tubes depends on the design of the pen. When your starting to do kit less work there are no rules. Experiment and see what works best for you.
 
Pen_Turner_Dan said:
So, quick question, you still use pen tubes, correct?
Click to expand...
Actually no brass tubes in this one, though they could be used. I have never found ones that are the right diameter and thickness to suit my tastes. I made a long tenon on either black PR or ebonite (I've used both), glued the skin to the tenon, cast clear pr, turned, then made an insert on the other end. The black background works well with the skin.
 
The tubes at this point become optional. Strength of material you will be using may play a part in it. You can always turn the hole larger and epoxy in any parts you want to use from a kit, they dont have to be pressed in.
 
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