sgimbel
Member
My table saw took a crap on me so because of space I am replacing it with a chop saw. Has anyone made a jig for doing segmenting on a chop saw? I have a good idea but figued if someone has made 1 why experment.
jig for mitre saw
- Thread starter sgimbel
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PenMan1
Member
This one works ok:
Pen Blank Sizing & Cutting Jig at Penn State Industries
You can also make something similar from wood, mfd or even high density cutting board material that will meet your needs exactly. The important things are 1. -safety, getting your fingers away from the chop saw and 2. A set up that will allow you to make square and repeatable cuts.
Pen Blank Sizing & Cutting Jig at Penn State Industries
You can also make something similar from wood, mfd or even high density cutting board material that will meet your needs exactly. The important things are 1. -safety, getting your fingers away from the chop saw and 2. A set up that will allow you to make square and repeatable cuts.
Talfalfa33
Member
Not sure this is what your looking for but I did this for a 6 inch chop saw to cut my blanks to the length of the tubes. I put the tube in the back and slide the stop up to the tube and then place the blank in front and cut. I have it set to be 1/32 longer than the tube so I have something to mill. Or this might give you some ideas to modify to suit your needs.
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MDEdwards
Member
I'd love to see a safe jig idea for segment work on a chop saw. I am timid about small stuff with mine. I put a trim blade on it that has 80 teeth. Before that it was a missle launcher.
Recently I made a jig for the band saw to cut 5" blanks on the diaginal from end to end. By combining contrasting acylics, then recutting again. The resulting pens turned out better than they should have!
Recently I made a jig for the band saw to cut 5" blanks on the diaginal from end to end. By combining contrasting acylics, then recutting again. The resulting pens turned out better than they should have!
bradh
Member
The issue I have with the PSI jig, and most other mitre saw jigs, is that the cut off piece will often catch on the blade just as the cut is finishing. Because the half blank is light and the blade turns very fast, the half-blank takes flight at a very high speed and begins bouncing off every wall of the shop (please don't ask how I know this).
triw51
Member
I had the same problem and solved it by cutting a 7/8th notch in a 2x4 scrap about 5" long and I would put the notch over the short piece to be cut off. It will catch the piece (90% of the time) before it flies off and gets lost. Works with acrylic round blanks also.