Inexpensive finishing lathe

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JPW062

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Nov 3, 2016
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I've noticed in my process I can turn down and sand a pen pretty quickly, but what hogs time is the on-lathe finishing. Using General Finishe's Woodturner's Finish I can take up to an hour to finish with many light coats and time in between. I like the results of this finish as it ends up looking pretty good and is very resilient. I currently work with two jet lathes and waiting on the finishes is holding me up. The lathes I use are also not at my shop, so I end up sitting around doing nothing while I wait for the finish. I don't currently have a lathe at home for pens. I'm hoping to sell a few pens, sell my old lathe, and buy a new lathe in the near future.


I find myself considering some other small lathe set-ups with which to do my finishing. I would turn and sand on a legit lathe, then transfer the complete mandrel over to the small finish lathe
Grizzly Drill Powered
Penn State Penn Pal
Harbor Freight Hobby

I wouldn't normally consider any of these for regular use, but for primarily applying a wipe on finish and buffing, it seems like they might do the trick. My main concern is simply running them for extended periods of time, even if not under load. For instance, I imagine running the drill full speed for long at all will burn it out.
Many of these small lathes are also MT1. Meaning I would need to transfer mandrels or use an MT1 adapter on my main lathe. Anyone used one of those?

Of course, I can get a Rikon 70-105 for about $250 OTD, which may not be the best lathe in the world, but is a legitimate 10X18 mini with 1/2 HP motor.

Am I way off base with my thinking? Should I just switch to a different finish?
 
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KCW

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Just a thought, if you want another cheap lathe, try this one from HF Benchtop Wood Lathe - 5 Speed. It will use MT2 accessories, the other lathes you have listed have MT1 I think, so it would be buying a bunch of stuff you already own. I started with this lathe, and made plenty of pens, start to finish, with no problems, so it should work just fine for your finishing process.
 

Curly

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Have you tried dipping your finish? Look in the library in the Finish section. With some tweaking for your finish it should work for you. Best of all is you won't need another lathe.
 

moke

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Cedar Rapids, Iowa
I bought a Rikon 70-100 Econo for basically that reason, I had a 46-460 Delta I had as my main lathe. That was about 3 years ago, then last year I bought a Laguana Revo and the 46-460 bacame the drilling/finishing lathe. I still have the Rikon, but it is a Beall buff system now.

I think I paid 199 and got in a free shipping deal for the Rikon from Woodcraft. It is ok, the belt change is different and more difficult than it's better cousins, it also is not co-planar. So I have never used it for drilling and it is on wheels so the belt change is better, but if you had to have it against a wall you would have to stand on your head to see and change the speed, but it works perfectly as a Beall Buff platform and I would do it again. I have mentored a couple of kids and shimmed the tail stock to get it co-planar and it was great for that. Just my .02 but the drill powered lathe has to be close to worthless. Even though it has it's problems and the "Econo" line did, I would do it again.
 

eharri446

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Woodcraft has a Rikon on sale for $249.00 that does not have variable speed. It would work well as a finishing station. Also check Penn State Industries. They has a device which turns four blanks as they dry. Not sure if that would work but it does not hurt to look.

Also, if you can find them, Harbor Freight has a small lathe with variable speed for $79.00. They are discontinuing them so they may be hard to find.
 

KenV

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Coplanar - Math word definition - Math Open Reference
That is the meaning of coplanar I am familiar with, but I don't see how it fits in relation to lathes. What do you mean when you say they are not coplanar?

If the axis of the head stock and axis of the tailstock are on the same plane and remain so as the plane is rotated through 360 degrees.

Many approximate it by checking to see that the points of the head stock and taildtock meet and are not grossly pointing in different directions.

I put a bore site lazer in the headstock er32 collet and measured the circle it indicated at the tailstock in the furthest position. Then reversed ends using a mt2 collet in the tailstock.

Best approximation of coplane alignment was when I pushed the top of the tail stock away as I,locked it down. Worst was when I pulled it towards me and locked it down. Laser made a 5 mm circle on the wall which calculated to 0.001 from theotetical centerline.
 

TonyL

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I have the smallest HF variable speed that I use just for applying CA. I use it regularly, but find it turns a little too fast for applying CA even at the lowest speed. I don't know if I can change the belts on it - should be easy enough to find out. If I can't, I would prefer something around 250 rpms.
 

JPW062

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I apply my finish at faster speeds. Often 800-1000.
That unit from PSI looks interesting.
RPM is much lower than I use and it does not turn the barrels individually. I'm not too certain how much it would help with drips and beading. The continuous flow would help dry time, but that is not my primary concern.
Spinning on a lathe I can add a coat every five minutes or so with the finish I am using.

The Rikon for $249 is the one I am looking at, although I do not think it is currently on sale at Woodcraft, at least not nationally/corporate. It was a month or so ago. There may be franchises still running the sale until they run out of stock they ordered for the sale.
 
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TonyL

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The Rikon for $249 is the one I am looking at, although I do not think it is
currently on sale at Woodcraft, at least not nationally/corporate. It was a
month or so ago. There may be franchises still running the sale until they run
out of stock they ordered for the sale.

I like this one (bought it on sale at WC) and use it as a dedicated buffier; but I wouldn't mind turning a pen on it except for changing belts (which is actually pretty easy).
 

moke

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The impression I got is that the PSI "turning" station is basically a "spit" motor for a grill. It is made to dry poly type finishes....not CA

I built a similar device right before/as the were releasing the PSI version, using a spit motor. It works ok, but poly is slow to dry.
Just my .02
 

JPW062

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Nov 3, 2016
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Ended up with a Shopfox 1704 used on craigslist for $125. 25 pounds lighter than the Rikon, although clearly not the same quality. Since it will be used for support and moved around often the lighter weight seemed important.
 
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