I'm not quite a Micromesh convert, but...

[DurocShark]

I've been avoiding Micromesh because, in my words, "It doesn't solve any existing problems." However, I was out of several grits of wet-dry paper, and the price to replace them would be close enough to the "Regular" pack of MM I decided to give it a shot.

After doing a couple of PR pens and a couple of wood pens with it, here are my findings:
*Lasts longer than paper. I usually get 2 pens out of a 4x4" square of w/d paper. I did 2 with the MM and found no change in how it works.
*Doesn't discolor exposed wood.
*The foam pad is nice.

So while I still don't find MM to be essential, I like the cost effectiveness and the not darkening exposed wood (under the bushings, etc). So the bang for the buck is there. But as far as the final finish... Not much difference between the MM and the 400-600-800-1000-2000 schedule I've been doing.

 

[cnirenberg]

Don,
Have you tried EEE cream on acrylics yet? You can fine sand to 600 and finish with EEE, then a bit of Flitz or auto polish.

 

[DurocShark]

I have only used it on wood per the PSI video. I hated it. Haven't tried it since. My final finish (which I failed to mention above) is PlastX applied on the lathe.

 

[hunter-27]

I have only used it on wood per the PSI video. I hated it. Haven't tried it since. My final finish (which I failed to mention above) is PlastX applied on the lathe.

Give Brasso metal polish a shot on your acrylics, I think you will be pleasantly surprised. :biggrin:

 

[cnirenberg]

Don,
I use the EEE on CA and the acrylics. I haven't tried it on bare wood. Gonna have to give the brasso a try though.

 

[Don_Hart]

I have been using micro mesh for quite a while and the pads I am using on acrylic are now over 3 years old so it definitely lasts a long time :smile-big:

For my final finish I use novus #2 plastic polish. An 8oz bottle will do literally 100s of items. I finally go close to the end of my 8oz bottle earlier this year so I purchased a 64oz to refill from. It will probably last me a lifetime.

I have never tried brasso on acrylic I will have to give it a try.

 

[GouletPens]

Beall buff your acrylics and you're good to go. It'll save you several minutes on every pen and look just as good as anything else.

 

[hunter-27]

Brasso

I have been using micro mesh for quite a while and the pads I am using on acrylic are now over 3 years old so it definitely lasts a long time :smile-big:

For my final finish I use novus #2 plastic polish. An 8oz bottle will do literally 100s of items. I finally go close to the end of my 8oz bottle earlier this year so I purchased a 64oz to refill from. It will probably last me a lifetime.

I have never tried brasso on acrylic I will have to give it a try.

I use it for a few seconds-lathe on, then a few final stokes-lathe off. Also works great to get fine scratches off of the face of your watch or cell phone screen. OOPS, that is another story for another thread. :biggrin:

 

[Mack C.]

I have been using micro mesh for quite a while and the pads I am using on acrylic are now over 3 years old so it definitely lasts a long time :smile-big:

For my final finish I use novus #2 plastic polish. An 8oz bottle will do literally 100s of items. I finally go close to the end of my 8oz bottle earlier this year so I purchased a 64oz to refill from. It will probably last me a lifetime.

I have never tried brasso on acrylic I will have to give it a try.

If you can't find BRASSO, look for SILVO. It works as well!

 

[DCBluesman]

But as far as the final finish... Not much difference between the MM and the 400-600-800-1000-2000 schedule I've been doing.

For all practical purposes, you are using the micromesh schedule. Here are the equivalents.

 

[xmaddchillx]

the only complaint with the MM set I got in the color reference chart and the actual colors of the pad don't match up for anything so I have constant trouble figuring out which is which since theres about 6 shades of blue that are pretty close together lol

 

[jkeithrussell]

the only complaint with the MM set I got in the color reference chart and the actual colors of the pad don't match up for anything so I have constant trouble figuring out which is which since theres about 6 shades of blue that are pretty close together lol

I've purchased 3 sets and they are all like that. Somewhere around the middle 3 pads, the colors don't match, then the last 3 match up again.

These sets last for a really long time. Eventually, the foam pad will break down. I have a set for corian, a set for wood (well, for CA), and a set for everything else.

 

[wdcav1952]

the only complaint with the MM set I got in the color reference chart and the actual colors of the pad don't match up for anything so I have constant trouble figuring out which is which since theres about 6 shades of blue that are pretty close together lol

Keith,

I buy my micro mesh in sheets and cut it into strips, so I don't know how the pads are labeled. I number my strips 1-9 with 9 being 12,000. If your pads come in order, you might wish to do the same thing.

FWIW,

 

[leehljp]

Ahhh, but you are learning what the old timers already know. :biggrin:

I can get sandpaper up to .2 micron in a specialty shop here, but I still use MM. I use other along with MM. Actually for the ridges in CA (and other finish, I use sandpaper to get everything level, then use MM. I don't have the foam pad/backed MM, and the regular MM is too flexible to "level out" ridges quickly. Once near level, I switch to MM.

One of the great advantages of MM is the fact that it can be used over and over when SP has to be thrown away after use.

 

[GouletPens]

Ahhh, but you are learning what the old timers already know. :biggrin:

I can get sandpaper up to .2 micron in a specialty shop here, but I still use MM. I use other along with MM. Actually for the ridges in CA (and other finish, I use sandpaper to get everything level, then use MM. I don't have the foam pad/backed MM, and the regular MM is too flexible to "level out" ridges quickly. Once near level, I switch to MM.

One of the great advantages of MM is the fact that it can be used over and over when SP has to be thrown away after use.

I too practice the sandpaper leveling for CA, then switch to MM. I use the foam backed stuff though. I know it costs a little more, but it doesn't heat up my fingers and the little pads are easy to keep in order and are the perfect size for sanding down pen halves.