Ideas on how to finish this bottle stopper?

[angboy]

I turned this bottle stopper and it has lots of large voids in it. I want to put some sort of finish on it but am afraid that anything I try to apply will gunk up in the voids and look bad inside them, even if it looks good on the surface part. I was hoping to preserve them because I like the way they look, so I didn't want to fill them with anything. I guess I could leave it unfinished, but I don't know then what it'll look like after a couple of years of use. I had written "taz burl" on it, but that's about all I can tell you about the wood. Anyone have any ideas of what I should do?

 

[wood-of-1kind]

Mineral oil may be good for a finish and it is also "food" safe. Will not "gunk" up the voids. Nice looking timer you have there.

 

[PenMan1]

It looks like the perfect candidate for azurite crushed stone. Thin CA glue, powdered or crushed stone just above the finished size. re-sand, then CA finish. It should be even more beautiful than it is already. Unfortunately, if you leave it unfinished, it will likely fall apart.

 

[RussFairfield]

My problems with all finishes on a bottle stopper is that the alcohoil in the wine will eventually destroy anything I put on it as a finish. The only difference is that some finishes will take longer to lose their gloss than others.

For that reason, I use either a mineral oil, or a a home-brew shellac if I want a shine on a new bottle stopper, . Neither will last very long with exposure to alcohol, but both are safe and don't add anything to the wine. I always use a medicinal grade of alcohol as a thinner in the shellac, rather that the stuff purchased in the paint store. It sounds better to a potential customer when gthey ask the questions about finish and safety.

 

[fernhills]

My problems with all finishes on a bottle stopper is that the alcohoil in the wine will eventually destroy anything I put on it as a finish. The only difference is that some finishes will take longer to lose their gloss than others.

For that reason, I use either a mineral oil, or a a home-brew shellac if I want a shine on a new bottle stopper, . Neither will last very long with exposure to alcohol, but both are safe and don't add anything to the wine. I always use a medicinal grade of alcohol as a thinner in the shellac, rather that the stuff purchased in the paint store. It sounds better to a potential customer when gthey ask the questions about finish and safety.

Now, i always thought the Alcohols were two different animals. Carl

 

[jthompson1995]

I've done some stoppers like that (very good sellers, too) finished with BLO then Beall buffed and also with spray lacquer. You have to pick the fibers out of the voids if you buff them, but it gives a soft satin sheen. The lacquer is shinier but be careful of runs and make sure to spray into the voids to get good coverage. Both of these finishes are resistant to alcohol.

 

[KenV]

I use a product called "Tried and True Oil" -- polymerized linseed oil without the dryers and solvents so you can ship it in luggage on an airplane. Leaves a matt finish. A similar product used on gunstocks is sold in small bottles in sporting goods stores as Tru-Oil.

I like the texture of the voids if the piece is solid (not internally cracked and weak).

Should be spectacular with the Pop of the finish.

 

[sbwertz]

Post a picture when you get it finished.

 

[leestoresund]

You can get a low melting point metal. Highland Woodworking used to sell it by the stick for about $10.
You can get bismuth online for about $10. Melts between 150-190 degrees so it won't char the wood.
Drip solder into the voids.
Like Andy said, colored PR.

Lee

 

[gketell]

I've used CA on most of my stoppers. Use thin within the voids to seal them then use thick on the surface like you do with pens. Looks really good that way.

Or you could use rattle-can lacquer. I use the Deft stuff and it gives a good finish without being thick. Use the matching spray sanding-sealer first for an even finish.

GK