I know I said I'd stop but...

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dubdrvrkev

dubdrvrkev

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I had some more interest in sales so I thought I better make a few more ornaments. These are both Myrtle, first one has maple finials and the second has carob finials.


2005122041755_myrtle_ornament-1.jpg


200512204187_myrtle_ornament-2.jpg


Thanks for looking, and as always comments welcome.
 
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Kevin, Doh! You've done it again! Superb job. I've been meaning to ask you what tools you use for hollowing. I'm curious about your technique too - could you give me some pointers? Thanks!
 
Thanks.
Ron, I use these
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=tools-pkrd-sht But there are others available, if you don't mind turning some handles CSUSA has a nice little set. I chose these because I like the square section for the tool to ride on. When you are hollowing with the bent ones they always want to twist in your hands so that little flat surface 'might' help that. At least thats my thought.
There are a lot of tutorials online for doing these, and after reading some I just took a little from each one and do what works for me. I can email you a short tutorial if you like. I don't have any pics of in-process ornaments but I'd be happy to do it after xmas sometime if enough people want me to.

edit: If you didn't want to buy the whole set, you could do with the straight and 80* bend. I don't use the intermediate bend a whole lot.
 
Kevin,

Look real good. After having turned about 45 of these this year (all for gifts or our own tree, no $$$ coming out of it [:(]) I feel that I have become a conissuer of shape and style, mainly since no two of mine ever looked alike. That was not neccesarily on purpose, just a fact of life[;)]. I really like the shape of the top one better for the ball, my wife tells me that I prefer the "squished" ones (sure glad she told me what I like better). However, I like the bottom finial on the bottom one better. Both look great, as did your others, but just a matter of personal preference in case you wanted to send one to me [:p]. I did not think about burning the grooves for decoration, that is a nice touch.

I agree about the shape of the scraper's shaft. I have two that have round tool stock, and I always seem to have a hard time keeping it level. I had good success but it wasn't great. Then I tried this one from Hamlet through CSUSA, I had bought it to turn the inside lips of some lidded boxes I was making- http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=247-0099 It does have a wide flat stock that rests very nicely on the tool rest. It really increased my success with consistantcy with wall thickness and is much easier to sharpen. They actually have 4 slightly different shapes, I use the thinest and narrowest one. I start by drilling a 5/8" hole all the way through which is about as small as I can make it and still get the tool in far enough, and I can use 13/16" stock for the finials. Here is the picture I posted in another thread of few of mine, all birdseye or ambrosia maple with maple or walnut finals-

20051220155713_Ornaments%20small.jpg
<br />
 
I too like the squished ball look. But these were both kind of experiments. The top one was the burned line experiment and the finial was an exercise in beading. The bottom I was just trying a different shape. Besides I didn't have enough stock to make two more and didn't want to waste any wood so I stretched it out a little. I may try some beading on a bulb pretty soon though. Stay tuned..
I use a 1/2" hole to hollow through which allows me to use pen blanks for finials.
You should sell some to recoup some cost in making them.
 
Thanks for the info guys! I'm still working on a decent birdhouse inspired by Kevin [:)] and the ornaments look fun too. I like both round and squished bulb styles. I think round is more of a technical achievement to get it perfectly round, and unfortunately people won't realize the pains involved (or maybe it's just me who finds it demanding to make [near] perfectly round objects?).

It's too late this year, but for next year I'd like to be able to give some as gifts. But who thinks of these things in July? Lol, that's why I'm asking questions now. I'll be looking through CSU's tool selection, but it's nice to know which tools already work for those that know. And Kevin, if you would write something up for me when you get a spare moment, that would be great!

Ray, you make some fine ornaments too! And 45 this year? Wow, you've been busy! With that many to do, do you make the individual sections up seperately and then assemble later, or are each one crafted one at a time?

Thanks again,
 
I make up the balls first then the finials. Maybe 5 or 6 at a time, gets boring to do too many of the same thing to me.Sometimes the bottom hole gets a little big if the tool rubs on it much so I try to fit each one, but the tops are always the exact same size. To make the tenons to fit the hoel I used a trick I saw somewhere else, I found a 5/8" wrench (I have 5/8" holes) and ground one side to sharp edge. Now I use it as a parting tool until it slips onto the tenon (does this even make sense?). It is not a real nice cut but it is only a tenon that no one sees once it is glued in place.

Kevin, what did you use for finish? I tried several things so I am curious what worked for you.
 
Originally posted by woodwish
<br />To make the tenons to fit the hole I used a trick I saw somewhere else, I found a 5/8" wrench (I have 5/8" holes) and ground one side to sharp edge. Now I use it as a parting tool until it slips onto the tenon (does this even make sense?).
Click to expand...

I had to think about this for a minute, but I got it now. Actually, that's a pretty neat trick.[:)] Thanks for sharing Ray!

What do you guys think about those multi-tip tools? Are they worth the expense, or would a cheaper dedicated scraper work best for this kind of application?
 
Multi tip tools are great, I just don't think they'd work for this. You need some room to move around in the hole. The tools I use are 1/4" shanks which I can usually keep from hitting the sides if the 1/2" hole I hollow through.

I have been using Deft spray for a finish, over Mylands cellulose sanding sealer.
 
I was using a multi-tip Sorbey tool at first but found it was really too large for a small hole that is needed. The advantage was a replacable tip that was also easy to sharpen. I can see that I will use it more on small lidded boxes and such. Then I used a Sorbey with a 1/4" round shank. Kevin is right that it is easier to manuver but I was never successful at sharpening the darn thing, and it keep turning on me since the round shank makes it hard to determine the actual cutting edge position. That's when I went back to the Hamlet mentioned in a post above with much better luck.

I tried tung oil but it was too yellow for my taste on maple. Then I tried shellac and buffing on a three-wheel Beall system, what a gummy mess that made! Also tried some of that Minwax wipe-on poly finish but I didn't really like it, even after 4 or 5 coats it had no buildup. The majority of them I finished with Deft sanding sealer and then buffed. The buffing takes time but I really like the look of it. Had not though about the Deft spray, maybe I'll give that a try.
 
If you want a cheap tool for hollowing, get a long hex head wrench and regrind it to a scraper profile. Cut the short leg down to about 1/2-3/4 and grind the top and bottom flat. Just copy the shape of one of the commercial ones. Just make sure you put the cutting angle on the right side.[:I] You have the flat surface to ride on the rest, the steel is hard and holds an edge with no extra heat treating and they are cheap. All you need to do is turn a handle and you are good to go.
Dale
 
Originally posted by Thumbs
<br />Kevin, Let's get back to you doing a fullblown tutorial, eh?[:D][}:)]

Maybe Ray will help?[}:)][:D]
Click to expand...

After the hollidays I'll do one since I have to make some more ornaments for sales anyway. When I do I'll send it to Ray and a few others for editing and/or additions.
 
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