I forgot about Edison

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terryf

terryf

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Joined
Jul 10, 2010
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Location
Pretoria, South Africa
A lesson learned - make sure I have sufficient light to check my finish before assembling.

I turned a piece of Cocbola burl for a Jr Statesman and when I had finished through to 12000 and buffed, I assembled.

When I got it into decent (underneath a 100watt bulb) light I found that there were still quite a few dull patches on the both the tube and barrel :mad:

Now I have to figure out how to take the hardware apart without doing any damage!!

Any suggestions??
 
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Thanks Peter, I have a punch set (not as big as the link you sent) buy adequate. Problem is I still need to rest the cap on something when I smack the punch with a small 6 pounder!

Or am I missing something?
 
Not missing something , just over-tooled for the job . Ditch the 6 pounder , find a regular nail hammer , hold pen in left hand(assuming right handedness) , and use many light taps . Works better than the brute force approach . May help to wear a rubber glove or use something similar to get a better grip .
 
If you don't have a comprehensive set of punches then there is an alternative. Use the back end of the biggest drill bit that fits in the hole and hit the point with a plastic mallet or chunk of wood. I used this method till I got a nice set of punches. :wink:
 
skiprat said:
If you don't have a comprehensive set of punches then there is an alternative. Use the back end of the biggest drill bit that fits in the hole and hit the point with a plastic mallet or chunk of wood. I used this method till I got a nice set of punches. :wink:
Click to expand...

Whew! I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one who used his drill bits this way before getting my punch set. :biggrin:
 
IME, the tough part to remove on the Jr Statesman is the black coupler in the cap. I've damaged the blank a few times when hammering this out and find it is less stress on the cap blank to press it out instead. This post describes the procedure I use:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55116

Agree with other posters that a transfer punch set is a great investment whatever dis-assembly method you use. Good luck!
 
terryf said:
A lesson learned - make sure I have sufficient light to check my finish before assembling.

I turned a piece of Cocbola burl for a Jr Statesman and when I had finished through to 12000 and buffed, I assembled.

When I got it into decent (underneath a 100watt bulb) light I found that there were still quite a few dull patches on the both the tube and barrel :mad:

Now I have to figure out how to take the hardware apart without doing any damage!!

Any suggestions??
Click to expand...

I have a magnet base incandescent lamp mounted on the lathe so the light shines on my work at all times. Helps to see the minor glitches.
 
Just the info I was looking for, thank you :biggrin:

I too, have used drill bits :redface: and screwed up a few in the process!

As far as lighting goes, I will be installing a set of lighting this afternoon that will embarrass most cricket stadium lights :biggrin:

Thanks for all the input, much appreciated!!

JimMc7 said:
IME, the tough part to remove on the Jr Statesman is the black coupler in the cap. I've damaged the blank a few times when hammering this out and find it is less stress on the cap blank to press it out instead. This post describes the procedure I use:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55116

Agree with other posters that a transfer punch set is a great investment whatever dis-assembly method you use. Good luck!
Click to expand...
 
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