I am trying to make a detail gouge.

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Scruffy

Scruffy

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3/8", fingernail type.

I am using W-1 Drill Rod.

I have never done this before.

My research leaves me with some questions.

After I have created the groove in the drill rod, I think I need to go through the following to anneal and temper the tool.

1) Heat the business end until cherry red, should be demagnetized, then quench in water or oil.

2) When cool, lightly sand off any scaling. Then reheat the business end until yellow (first temper)

3) Finish Grinding to shape making sure the area at the grind does not get above yellow.

While I seem to get agreement on 1), I seem to get differences of opinion on 2 & 3.

Some say since it is already W tempered I don't need to. I've also been told to take it to straw color. I've also been told set it in an oven preheated to 300 degrees for an hour.

So I guess I have too much advice or erroneous advice. I am presently planning to do what is listed in point 2) and 3). Does anyone have any concern about the process I am following.
 
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Uhm the best way to cut these things is get a tempered rod then grind the groove and keep it cool. Oh and you likely need something stouter than W1. W2 would be better or HSS, would certainly hold up better.
 
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seamus7227 said:
i remember these days, making my own tools, while very gratifying, I have learned over time that even as cheap as i am, it is much cheaper to just go ahead and buy the tool already made. Just my humble opinion.
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I was going to say something like that. Spindle gouges aren't very expensive. Even for high quality ones.
 
He, he ... I may re-evaluate my task..

I know that making Oland tools is a real snap.. (rods and HSS tools inexpensive)

and making carbide tools is also simple (drill rods and carbides are pretty cheap)..

In both cases they can be made much less expensive than commercially available.

But until I can actually see some one make traditional tools(videos don't really help me in this case), I guess I'll just use what I've got.

and seems like the cost advantage may not be as great as Oland and carbide tools.

At first blush, $12 for 36" 303 Stainless Rod 5/8" diameter (makes 3-4 tools), copper connector $1 for 2 ferrule, handle from hardwood scrap, it seemed enticing. But I guess I'll wait awhile.
 
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My favorite tool is one I made. Basically a 1/2" piece of O-1 drill rod. Cut the groove in the end with a ball nose end mill. Ground nose shape. Heated to red and quenched in water. I made a carbide tool years ago before they were popular. Round insert. Problem was I used a round bar, hard to control the roll unless cutting straight on. But it worked. Fun to do, but.....
 
Thanks, Paul...

I've heard a number of warnings about using round stock for carbides. Thanks for the heads up.

You used O-1, Jon told me that O-1 had a lesser chance of cracking when quenching stock with a lot of body. But, that for smaller detail gouges and skews, he didn't notice any differences with W-1. Have you had any comparison?

Have you tried drilling the flute? Off center drill. Then file down to expose the flute?
 
Wildman said:
You can always take a 3/8 " spindle gouge and grind bevel into a detail gouge. Only a $4.00 difference between Packard Woodworks brand (Hamlet) 3/8" spindle & detail gouge.

Packard Woodworks: The Woodturner's Source: Spindle Gouges

Packard Woodworks: The Woodturner's Source: Detail Gouges

Making your own penny wise and dollar foolish once you assemble needed materials & equipment. Throwing some money around town buying a new gouge much better investment in time and money!
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There is usually a difference in depth of the flute, and depending on the manufacturer, there is also a top of the flute difference as well.
Detail gouges typically have a shallow flute for more material, which in turn is supposed to be less prone to tool vibration under cutting conditions.
 
You have 2 basic choices and both have epic pitfalls.

1) Something larger and do the drill option then grind it down to shape. This would have to be done POST heat treatment unless you went with something high carbon. The reason for this is you will NOT be able to adequately heat treat the metal at home due to what the metal is.

2) Hammer forge from rectangle to round over a shaft to form the groove then heat treat. This would need to be something like W2/O/A/D/1xxx series. There will likely be serious plagues along the way that would have to be dealt with.

In reality something in the HSS range, M/T/E series would be the best option to use.
 
Look at buying a Thompson Lathe Tools. They are all unhandeled, made from powered metal (A11) and given a -300 F temper. For my money, you can not even to attempt to made a tool that is comparable.
 
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