Huon pine & Ebonite

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CjG78

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2020
Messages
759
Location
Australia
G'day!
Another custom pen, all materials chosen by customer, and this one came up awesome. Black ebonite, matte finished, stabilised huon pine burl, lined and sleeved with ebonite.
The black ends really suit the pen, give it great contrast.
What are your thoughts?
Casey.
 

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mark james

IAP Collection, Curator
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
12,752
Location
Medina, Ohio
G'day!
Another custom pen, all materials chosen by customer, and this one came up awesome. Black ebonite, matte finished, stabilised huon pine burl, lined and sleeved with ebonite.
The black ends really suit the pen, give it great contrast.
What are your thoughts?
Casey.
Another stunning blank with superb accents Casey! I really appreciate your skill set, (but miss the hands - never bothered me at all; just another 'shop shot' which used to be appreciated in days past on IAP, sadly not now). The Huon Pine is really impressive, well done. 👏 👏 👏 . The Ebonite is a great counterpoint to the Yellow Pine. Be well, Mark
 

Henry

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2017
Messages
70
Location
Dallas
G'day!
Another custom pen, all materials chosen by customer, and this one came up awesome. Black ebonite, matte finished, stabilised huon pine burl, lined and sleeved with ebonite.
The black ends really suit the pen, give it great contrast.
What are your thoughts?
Casey.
Beautiful pen. May I ask how you keep the threaded portion on the pen body from breaking? I haven't had much success. The cap seems to break it off every time with a few uses. I use m10x1 for the section and the outside thread is 13 triple start. Oh and ebonite. Thanks!
 

RichAldrich

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2007
Messages
1,047
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Beautiful pen. May I ask how you keep the threaded portion on the pen body from breaking? I haven't had much success. The cap seems to break it off every time with a few uses. I use m10x1 for the section and the outside thread is 13 triple start. Oh and ebonite. Thanks!
Mr. Henry. Is the pen body that breaks an alumilite or acrylic acetate? Do you put a relief or groove at the end of the threads? Do you use a lubricant while threading? How much wall thickness do you have in the 10x1 area. Do you use a collar around the 10x1 before drilling the interior hole? I regularly use 10x1 with a 12mm triple and do not have issues with breakage. My 2cents.
 

Henry

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2017
Messages
70
Location
Dallas
Mr. Henry. Is the pen body that breaks an alumilite or acrylic acetate? Do you put a relief or groove at the end of the threads? Do you use a lubricant while threading? How much wall thickness do you have in the 10x1 area. Do you use a collar around the 10x1 before drilling the interior hole? I regularly use 10x1 with a 12mm triple and do not have issues with breakage. My 2cents.
Hello

So the body is wood and the portion that breaks is ebonite. I guess the wall thickness would be around 4mm before threading both sides. I drill 9mm then tap w the m10x1 for the section. Then screw in a piece of scrap to support it and thread the outside for m13 triple start. I think I'm doing it right lube and all. Just for some reason it keeps breaking off like it's too brittle and need support in there ?

Thanks
 

PatrickR

Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2017
Messages
1,432
Location
Rural America
Hello

So the body is wood and the portion that breaks is ebonite. I guess the wall thickness would be around 4mm before threading both sides. I drill 9mm then tap w the m10x1 for the section. Then screw in a piece of scrap to support it and thread the outside for m13 triple start. I think I'm doing it right lube and all. Just for some reason it keeps breaking off like it's too brittle and need support in there ?

Thanks
I do it the opposite. male threads first, then drill and cut the female. Your scrap plug does not reduce the torque exerted while cutting the threads. Works for me with m12, so even thinner wall than you are having trouble with.
 

Henry

Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2017
Messages
70
Location
Dallas
I do it the opposite. male threads first, then drill and cut the female. Your scrap plug does not reduce the torque exerted while cutting the threads. Works for me with m12, so even thinner wall than you are having trouble with.
I'll give that a go. Thanks!
 

CjG78

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2020
Messages
759
Location
Australia
Hello

So the body is wood and the portion that breaks is ebonite. I guess the wall thickness would be around 4mm before threading both sides. I drill 9mm then tap w the m10x1 for the section. Then screw in a piece of scrap to support it and thread the outside for m13 triple start. I think I'm doing it right lube and all. Just for some reason it keeps breaking off like it's too brittle and need support in there ?

Thanks
Sorry just read this now. I always cut the outer threads on the tenon first.
 
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