How to start?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Chasboy1

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2019
Messages
180
Location
Morristown, NJ
Hi all, I've been interested in casting for quite awhile but I don't know how to start or what to use. I don't want to invest a lot of money initially. I was wondering if there was an information source or some here could offer some advice on how to start slowly?
Thanks!
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

elyk864

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2017
Messages
354
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Get a paint can pressure pot from Harbor freight and a small compressor. Probably the easiest way to get going, buy an Alumilite kit and start testing. Pick out a color of dye or powder.

 

Dehn0045

Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
1,533
Location
US
If you are doing stuff where you aren't worried about some fine bubbles, then skipping a pressure pot is possible. I followed the method described in this video:

Here are a few of the earrings that I have made. I'm thinking you could get decent results with pen blank sizes (the earrings started as pen blank dimensions that I then cut in half). I wouldn't try to do label casts or other objects (like feathers, snakskin, etc) without a pressure pot. I used the Art N Glow resin and Pearl Ex powder for the pigment, the first attempt I don't think I mixed thoroughly enough and maybe wasn't precise enough with the measurements and the result was a little gummy. Also, the label says that minimum temperature is 70 degrees, but better results are achieved above 80 -- thats not a problem here in the summer, but I may build a simple heat lamp box for casting in the winter. The nice thing about Art N Glow is that it has an extremely long pot life, as a beginner and doing small volumes with multiple different colors it is night to not have a time pressure. I can see why the faster curing stuff like Alumilite would be preferred by production type guys using a pressure pot, but I don't mind waiting for a day or two to demold.

Last comment is that if you are wanting to do wood/resin casting like worthless wood, then stabilizing might be a good first step. The earrings that I made used unstabilized wood, and I'm sure you could get decent results with pen blanks this way, but my understanding is that the professional level stuff uses stabilized wood (also, the faster cure resin may be more sensitive to moisture in wood).

PXL_20201129_213234136.jpgPXL_20201129_212835568.jpgPXL_20201129_212937533.jpg
 

JohnU

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
4,954
Location
Ottawa, Illinois
The first thing you need to do is figure out what type of blanks you want to cast. Color, embedded objects, labels, clear casts...? That will help you decide what resin and molds to get. Then you can shop for the best prices.
Feel free to pm me with any questions.
 

JohnU

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
4,954
Location
Ottawa, Illinois
I think it's always a good idea to start simple and learn your way around resin and pouring techniques. Color pours are good for that using Alumilite white or clear. This way you get to experiment with dyes and mica pearls and can easily transition to embedded objects like pine cones and such. Tube on clear casting is another good start. Mostly because your casting steps are always the same and there's no waiting for certain resin temps, but what you put on your tube changes. You will spend more time building your blanks before you cast it but there are so many objects to incorporate like sea shells, thin celluloid, labels, watch parts and such. Your learning curve will be how the resin reacts to each object. Clear casts can be silmar 41poly resin or alumilite clear. Either way you will want a pressure tank because bubbles are easily seen in clear casts. Some like clear slow for more working time. The only draw back with starting with any alumilite is you'll need a pressure tank. Regardless of what your doing, there's a small expense... resin, molds, release spray, dyes and mica pearls, pressure tank, and air compressor.
You can get by without a pressure tank with silmar 41 poly resin doing color cast. The issue is it's hard to keep color separation in multi colored pours but Single mica pearl and dye pours work great. Silmar 41 is about half the price of Alumilite Urethane clear resin but it also has a strong odor where alumilite does not. There are plenty of pros and cons with using each. Most are mentioned here in past conversations that are searchable. Good luck and I hope to see some of your casts posted here when done !
 

henry1164

Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
243
Location
Webster, NY
I'm thankful to Zak Higgins and his videos for what I learned in the area of casting. One of Zack's lesson that was very important for me is to always write down your "recipe" for each pour - volume, dyes, additives such as mica powders/etc., temperature at pour, pressure pot settings, etc., etc. The pour results can then be duplicated, modified or even scrapped relative to the written details of the pour. Not a fun thing to make a run with pleasurable results and then NOT remember what all went into making the pour!!!
 

Chasboy1

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2019
Messages
180
Location
Morristown, NJ
Which material would you recommend to try without a pressure pot? I see some resin kits in stores like Michael's, are they usable?
What size molds do people use? Are they pen blank size, or do most make, let's say a 2x2x5 mold and then cut the result into pen blank sizes?
 

Dan Parr

Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2020
Messages
14
Location
Mt Pleasant Texas
I use Easycast Resin. You can get it at michael's. It is easy to work with. I don't use a pressure pot and it does fine for me. Just make a mold big enough to cut into 4 or 5 blanks
I know I'm interested in color and embedded objects. Not to interested in hybrids at this point.
 
Top Bottom