How do you insert tubes?

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Do you test fit tubes before applying glue?

  • Yes, I do.

    Votes: 106 92.2%

  • No, I don't--ever--instructions should be right.

    Votes: 4 3.5%

  • On kits I don't regularly use, I do

    Votes: 4 3.5%

  • I wish I did, sometimes, but I don't!

    Votes: 1 0.9%
  • Total voters
    115
  • Poll closed .
ed4copies

ed4copies

Local Chapter Manager
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Messages
24,687
Location
Racine, WI, USA.
I had an interesting exchange with a customer this weekend.

Some of the things I believed were common practice, may not be.

So, the first question:

When you make a pen, do you test fit the tubes before gluing them?


Thanks for your input!!

Ed
 
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1080Wayne said:
Every time (when I forget I regret) . And if the inside of the blank is to be painted , the tube had better fall through the hole without being pushed .
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... and it better not be 'wiggly'. Loose enough, but not too loose.

Of course, even though I do a quick test of every tube/blank immediately prior to gluing, the time to verify that the drill size is appropriate is before you drill the actual blank. What I frequently do is drill the 'cutoff' to use as a test mule prior to drilling the actual blank.

Obviously, I don't drill test holes for every single blank. If I am making a run of 20 pens of the same style with the same/similar material, I'll do one test. Further, I keep a selection of drilled cutoffs nearby that have the drill size marked on them. Therefore, I don't need to run a test for similar materials, I just run my prepared tube through the 'testers' to verify that the drill size is correct.
 
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Well, at least you are all confirming what I THOUGHT was a standard practice!!!

THANKS---I feel better!

How many would be surprised to find out the hole got "too tight" in an amboyna burl?
 
I test the first pen in a batch, and insert each tube into it's blank so they don't get mixed up. I just started a sheet with pen names, drill bit size for acrylic, and drill bit size for wood (they are not always the same), and depth.

Addendum; Ed; I often find that wood needs a slightly larger drill bit than acrylic. Wood seems to shrink or warp after drilling.
 
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I voted "yes," but it's more because of my method of organizing a "run" of pens. I made a few racks (boards with finish nails) that I use to keep the upper and lower blanks, plus tubes, all organized. The system wouldn't work if the tubes didn't fit in the holes.

Production.jpg

by Cmiles1985:

"I don't always test fit my tubes, but when I don't, they're bound to not fit"
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This might not qualify you as the most interesting man in the world, but maybe an interesting man. Stay tubefitsing, my friend. :wink:
 
randyrls said:
I test the first pen in a batch, and insert each tube into it's blank so they don't get mixed up. I just started a sheet with pen names, drill bit size for acrylic, and drill bit size for wood (they are not always the same), and depth.

Addendum; Ed; I often find that wood needs a slightly larger drill bit than acrylic. Wood seems to shrink or warp after drilling.
Click to expand...

See my note above. It might be the moisture content in wood causing it to swell with the heat from drilling. As a test, drill out one that feels tight and then set it aside for an hour or so and then test again and see if it doesn't fit properly.

Also things like grain and run-out can cause the tube to fit great in part of the blank but not the other. If that happens, rather than drilling larger, I'll use a round file to fine tune the fit.


Ed, when you say the hole got "too tight" are they trying to say that it fit when the drilled it but the hole got SMALLER when they went to glue? I can't see how that makes much sense personally.
 
I check every tube in its hole.
These days, with timber blanks I soak the hole with thin CA, leave for at least 24hrs, then use a round file to take off the high spots to get the fit I like. Takes a bit longer, but I go for quality rather than quantity.
 
Check the tubes every time.
Ed, maybe ask what type of insert tool we use if any. That wood be interesting. And I wear gloves also. I also use CA.
 
I test fit every tube before applying glue. Now and then I drill out a new blank. If I am making several of the same style, I completely assemble the first before drilling the rest and still test fit every tube.
 
Carl Fisher said:
Also things like grain and run-out can cause the tube to fit great in part of the blank but not the other. If that happens, rather than drilling larger, I'll use a round file to fine tune the fit.


Ed, when you say the hole got "too tight" are they trying to say that it fit when the drilled it but the hole got SMALLER when they went to glue? I can't see how that makes much sense personally.
Click to expand...
I think that the answer is found in the material that he referenced and your prior paragraph. It was a wacky-grained burl. It is not at all uncommon for burls to 'move' quite a bit after drilling, especially if they aren't completely dry. I had to trash ten beautiful cherry burl blanks not too long ago because I let them sit for a week after drilling and they twisted about so much that they became completely useless for our purpose. They did fine in my grill's smoke box.
 
I always check, it's just a unconscious, natural step in the process.
It's not a bad idea, especially if you have concerns about the moisture content of your blank, to drill the hole and give it 24 hrs before gluing the tubes in. Sometimes the hole will need to be "cleaned out" again due to the blank drying out a little more.
 
Always!! All it takes is to get one tube stuck in a one-of-a-kind blank or not have a spare tube to cure you of not checking first.

Jmoicbw-bidi
 
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