How close to bushings?

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ofd8001

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I'm new to this forum, so if this is in the wrong place, I apologize (also, please point me in the correct direction).

I'm also new to pen-turning.

They say you should turn your blanks "just proud" of the bushings. How "proud" is proud - is that like the thickness of a piece of paper, etc? Also does it matter whether the material is wood or acrylic?

Thanks for the advice.
 
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Hi Rich:

...not an expert here, but...

The basic issue is to have enough "material" that when you do you're sanding and finishing, you will end up close to your bushing size.

OR, for those of us that use calipers and actually measure our components, to get back to those measurements.

So... I measure my components, and try to be proud of those, and sand/finish back to the measurements.

A difference between wood and acrylic? EVERY material will be slightly different, so expect some variation, plan accordingly and you will do fine after some practice!!!

Oh... Welcome to IAP!
 
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I turn "proud enough" to where I can detect a difference with my fingernail. This way when I finish sanding, I will either be slightly proud or flush. I also turn proud and then turn a slight raduis that almost meets the bushing. HOWEVER, this is just how I like my pens. Remember, to turn to your components, and not the bushings using calipers (learned the hard way). Just my approach, and again, it has to be the way you and/or your customers like them. FWIW. :-)
 
+1 on dan's comment. I'm at the stage now where I require very little sanding.
to answer the question, I turn to the bushing. but be sure to take into consideration the finish you are planning to use. polishing an acrylic pen adds no thickness, now if you are the 20 coats of CA kind of person that needs to be taken into account.
 
My geek process, I turn to about .007" or so proud of the measurements (I don't use bushings for final sizing), and typically start sanding with 400 grit. If I'm doing abasic finish (i.e. one that does not build up significant thickness, oil, HUT Sticks, Friction Polish, spray laquer) then I sand down to .001 or .002 over measurements, then do the finish. Acrylic is the same, without the finishing part...

If I'm doing a CA finish, I sand down to .003 to .005" under measurements, build CA up to .005" or so over measurements (after the CA has been sanded smooth with no pitted areas with 400 grit), then finish like it was Acrylic (see above..)
 
Hmmm

ofd8001 said:
I'm new to this forum, so if this is in the wrong place, I apologize (also, please point me in the correct direction).

I'm also new to pen-turning.

They say you should turn your blanks "just proud" of the bushings. How "proud" is proud - is that like the thickness of a piece of paper, etc? Also does it matter whether the material is wood or acrylic?

Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...
Ask an IAP member what time it is and he/she will tell you how to build BIG BEN. If you can detect how proud you are with your fingernail that's enough. The rest will come to you with experience.
 
My advise is don't trust the bushings. I've found that bushings are often quite a bit different than the actual part size. Bushings also wear with use.

Since you're new to pen turning it would be a great time to start using a set of calipers to measure the parts and measure the blanks as you turn them. If your turning acrylics leave the blank a few thousands larger than the part. For wood a few thousands under the part size to allow for finish. Exactly how much depends on how much you sand and how much finish you use. I like my finished blanks to be .001-.002 larger than the part so you don't feel any sharp edges when you run your finger over the finished pen.

At first measuring seems like a pain, but pretty quickly you'll get used to doing it this way and it will become second nature. Don't worry if you're off a few thousands when you're learning. A little off one way or another isn't really noticeable and the fit of your pens will be much better than most beginners. You'll also be learning a skill that will serve you well as you progress and want to turn pens with a perfect fit and finish every time.
 
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For the most part, I use the same method as TonyL. The only difference is when I am turning material that could catch or chip near the ends of the blank such as some of the acrylics or specialty cast blanks. When I turn blanks that need "special attention", I leave a bit more on the blank and break out the 240 Abranet and sand it down to finish size.
 
I take a different approach. I use a skew down to about .01" above the bushing and sand to the bushing. As long as I check the bushing and they are within specification. I start with 80 and go through 600. Since 80 does most of the work I stay on them for about a minute and find it safer than trying to get closer with a tool. I also find that when using a skew riding the bevel gets a smooth but uneven surface because the bevel rides the ridges in the wood that were left from roughing.
 
Turn Between Centers without bushings and use calipers to size for components.
Never, never sand with bushings in place as you will end up with iron filings and discoloration on you blank.

Les
 
Scrap the bushings. Get calipers (2 pair). Turn on the tube between dead center mounted in the headstock and live center mounted in the tailstock. Measure and lock calipers on actual pen kit where wood meets metal. Turn wood down just below said measurement. Sand. CA glue to just above said measurement, sand and polish to exact measurement.

For plastics and other non-ca glue finishes, use the same proces, Turn slightly proud, sand and polish to final dimensions. If you mess up, see CA glue process above. :)
 
I think bushings get a bad rap. My experience has been different from those above. After making and selling 750 pens I have never encountered metal filings or discoloration on my blanks from bushings. You do have to monitor your bushings because they will get smaller. But if keep your sand paper mostly on the wood and dont sant back and forth from the blank to bushing alot your wood should stay clear.

I know I will catch alot of flack for this but I am pro bushing, between centers takes too long when you have 5-10 pens to make in one night.
 
If you finish with EEE ultra shine paste wax and got it on your bushings it would discolor and you could get that discoloration back on your blank. At one time a lot of people used this as the last "sanding" step the cure was to use non metalic bushings or great care in applying. This might have contributed to the "metal filings" during sanding. I've done a lot of pens also and have never detected the first sign of metal filings on my blanks after sanding.....I personally think that is an "old wives" tale.
 
I still use EEE. The trick is to only wipe off the blank when removing the EEE and flip your paper towel. I agree especially with light colored woods if you wipe on and off your metal busings using EEE or any buffing compound, the black residue will get into the grain.
 
On open grained woods I do a burnishing step before finishing. So I leave it a little proud of the bushings and burnish to final size. Burnishing closes a lot of the grain structure and give you a nice surface to finish. You can burnish with the back of a tool, your nail of a brown paper bag segment. On dense or closed grain woods I do not bother as I see very little difference.
 
When I was on the bushings... I would turn to flush, sand... then finish back to flush. Got tired of gluing to my bushings and have since moved to turning between centers with calipers... love it way more than bushings.
 
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