homemade sharpening jigs

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scrollsawwoodart

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I'm a tight butt and not wanting to spend money on a sharpening jig that I think I could make out of wood.

I am looking for others who may have made a sharping jig out of wood that you are using to sharpen your gouges and skews and other turning tools.

Does anyone have pics or references to websites that have homemade sharpening jigs. I have a grinder just not the jig to hold the tools to get the right angles.

Any help from this great knowldege data base:biggrin:

Jesse
 
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I use a block of wood with a piece of sandpaper stuck to it. I clamp the wood with my chuck and use the tool rest as a guide. I run the lathe at its lowest speed.
 
Jesse,

I made a jig after searching the internet. Use google or bing search and type in Building a lathe tool sharpening jig. This should bring up a Badger Woodworks site which shows plans and details. I made one similar but just put my grinder on MDF with a dado directly under the grinding wheels. Also used 3/4 oak strips my son had left over. May give you some food for thought

Once I got the bevels right it only takes 2 or 3 minutes to sharpen the gouges. Would send you a picture but my wife is out of town and has the camera.
 
I had a specialized wheel on my grinder that I followed up with a dremel tool. Then it became just using the dremel tool. Got the job done, but nothing does it quite like a wet sharp. Dad found one for $20 in Craigslist and we picked it up. You can get the job done with just the dremel as long as you know what the tool's supposed to look lile when you're done.
 
Okay so here is a question for all of you.

I have never done this but wanted to see if any of you do. Some people say to buff the bevel after you grind it. I have always heard this is a bad thing to do. What is everyone's own experience.
 
Papo said:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgeeBJSCC0E&feature=email

Hi Jessee:

View this video it may give you some ideas,

Happy Holidays
Click to expand...


One suggestion I can contribute..... Put down a piece of sticky back flexible ruler tape next to whatever you are using on the "bar" of your jig whether Wolverine, clone or home-made. When you grind the jig, mark the ruler setting on the shaft of the tool with a Sharpie marker. It is easily removed with Denatured alcohol. You can then reset the tool to the exact same setting every time you sharpen.

Oh; One more thing... I watched the video. I have made many items with adjustment slots in them. Instead of cutting a closed end slot (difficult) in a piece of wood, cut the two "sides" entirely in half, then cut small piece(s) to make up the slot; glue together. Present wood glues are stronger than the wood they bond!
 
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Jesse'

Regarding buffing the gouges, I do not do that, however I do slightly hone the flutes with a slip stone to remove any burrs. I pretty much follow articles written by Alan Lacer. Google Learning to Sharpen Progressively and you should get part 1 and part 2.
He also has an article about honing.

I watched the you tube video and had I seen it first I probably would have made the wood jig shown there. Easier to build than the one I made and probably more solid. I do not grind my skews on the side of the wheel. I use a slow speed grinder with and 8" wheel and use the face of the wheel then hone, ever so slightly, with a flat diamond credit card sharpener. If you see a shine on the tip it is no longer sharp.

Once I got the bevels right in only takes 2 or 3 minutes to do three gouges.

Which jig did you decide to make.

Hope this helps.
 
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