Homemade 3-wheel buff

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Firefyter-emt

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Mar 30, 2006
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Putnam, Connecticut, USA.
Thought you all might like to see some photos of my set up. I recently picked up some 1/2" steel rod to make a knock out tool and had quite a bit left over. Well I picked up 2 buff wheels (I need better wheels, but those will come later from Eastwood Mfg.) Right now it has a spacer because the hardware store only had 2 wheels in stock.

Anyway, the rod has a notch to hold the set screw in place and keep it from slipping. The spacers are made from 1/2" copper water pipe with 1/2" plastic well pipe heated and pressed over the copper pipe for a better feel and look. My lathe is torn down so I can re-shim the bearings so I was not able to center drill the end for the live center to ride in, bht that will be done in a bit. My plan is to either hold it in the drill chuck or my pin jaws and the live center. To tighten the wheels, there will be a second lock collar which is tensioned by placing a sleeve over the shaft and using the tailstock as a press to tighten them. Once tight, the lock collar is tightened down and the sleeve removed. I may use these wheels for metal work once the proper wheels arrive.

Here's a couple photos:
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Lee that buffing rig looks great ---thanks for the info on Eastwood MFG.
I went and checeked out there site--------I will be buying from them----great prices.
 
FALSE ADVERTISEMENT!!!!

I only see 2 wheels there.[;)]

I've come to the realization that I cannot normaly make something as nice as store bought unless I spend a lot more time on the project than it's worth. I'll try to save $50 by spending 10 hours or more of my time, and even then I wind up spending $40 in supplies.[:(]

Oh, and make sure you get the buffing wheels without the stiching. It really does make a difference.
 
I am still "in process" making this one. I plan to use these 2 wheels for metal buffing. Eastwood has a nice 6" wheel set of four pads for $18.99 ($24.99 for the 8") =sisal, sprial, canton & loose= I plan to order that one for the pens. I might make addtional pipe spacers so I can alter the pad layout. You could use threadded rod for this, but I like the solid rod better because you don't have to tighten the drill chuck on the threads. The lock collar uses a set screw and it just takes a second to make a divot for the set screw to lock into. I plan to keep the tailstock end adjustable.

Here is a link to the Eastwood pads. http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...ODUCT&iMainCat=433&iSubCat=434&iProductID=976

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