Holding the pen for buffing

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kevrob

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Jul 16, 2010
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Manhattan, KS 66502
This may sound like a silly question, but for those of you that buff, how do you hold your turned pen blanks for buffing? I have been leaving them on the mandrel, but am worried I might bend the mandrel while buffing. Is that even a legitimate concern? Any suggestions welcomed.
 
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If you bend your mandrel you are pressing way too hard . You should be putting minimal pressure when buffing . Just enough pressure to get a good contact with the wheel but not so much that you deform the wheel very much . The abrasive does the work not the pressure .
 
You can either turn or buy a wooden rod to replace the mandrel. I'd definitely remove the bushings too. I buy nylon spacers at lowes and put a slight taper on them and use them for CA finishes. I have a set I made specifically for buffing to try and not contaminate the buffing wheels.
 
I just hold the blank by hand . Some have lost blanks this way but so far I have been lucky . I am using my drill press as a buffing station and can get a good grip at a good angle .
 
I use a tapered punch to buff my blanks. Works well but you have to hold it on an upward slant.
 

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I use a long 1/4" bolt for slimlines and other 7mm types. Also use the transfer punches that are talked about so much here, for the larger diameter tubes. Enco sells sets of the punches for $7.95 on sale (and they seem to always be on sale :biggrin:).
 
Index finger and thumb, one on each end. I buff verticle with the blank, or sometimes slightly angled. If there are any scratches they are normally horizontal from the sand paper. Buffing in the opposite direction seems to get them out quicker.

Doesn't the metal on the mandrel turn your wheels black?
 
Thanks for all the great tips. Chasper I have maybe only buffed 10 pens to-date, but haven't had any problems with the mandrel turning the wheels black, yet at least.
 
I hold it with both hands with my fingers at either end. I hold at a 45 degree angle or so and lightly put the lower end to the wheel first. Be careful not to get the upper end tipped too far into the wheel, this is where it will grab and throw the blank from your hand, slamming it down into whatever is below. Not saying it's ever happened to me, just heard from others.:rolleyes:
 
I use a 12" length of ¼" dowel that has masking tape wrapped around the center point. I use enough tape so pushing the blank over it, it is a little snug. I have full control of the blank that way.
 
I use a threaded rod with nylon nuts and leave the bushings off, that way I don't have to worry about contaminating the wheels with bits of metal.
 
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