Hi, I've been browsing I guess I should post

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BobGast

Banned
Joined
Nov 27, 2016
Messages
82
Location
Round Lake Beach, Illinois
I am from Round Lake Beach, Illinois. I have been a Lapidary for about 7 years but I ran across a guy making bowls on Facebook. We struck up a conversation and he said that I should try it. So I went to Harbor Freight and bought their largest wood lathe and tools for some 4 or 5 hundred dollars. Then I discovered that I could turn pens. I was ecstatic as I write almost exclusively with a fountain pen and have for several years. My introduction to pen making is with a pen making kit that came with Rosewood slimline blanks. I have had a couple of mishaps and I am still learning exactly how the slimline is turned with regard to the bushings but I am getting there. I only have two more left and I will have to go on to another kit. My goal obviously is to get to fountain pens but the guy at Penn State said that all of their kits leak. So this is an automatic drawback for me. My question is why can't they just get good nibs and feeds instead of sell an inferior product. (I haven't made one yet or even seen the kit so I probably should keep my mouth shut, sorry). Anyway they discouraged me from making fountain pens and also at a CA finish at this early stage. Oh well, I've only used Shellawax on 2 pens. The rest are all CA and acrylic or polyester blanks are next for me. My biggest challenge is learning about the lathe and to quit ruining my sons chop saws by trying to do something that they weren't made to do. Now that I have learned those 2 safety lessons I know that I have to be more patient and keep safety first. You're not supposed to but you can get away without a respirator in Lapidary but not with wood. It's no fun breathing in that stuff. So something for dust collection is very high on the agenda. In the meantime it is a respirator and a lot of cleaning. Sorry that I got so windy here but it's safer for me to just make pens. I would love to upgrade my lathe already but I don't have room. I'll post my next slimline pen when I get it done.
 
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Bob, Welcome from Virginia!

I can't speak as to the fountain pens leaking. I think the thinking on what to make or finish type was to start and then work your way towards more challenging tasks.
Don't be disheartened....turning and pen turning are wonderful hobbies/talents.

See if there is a local woodturning club or a Woodcraft store near you. You can get plenty of training and questions answered, tips and help along the way. A club most likely will let you turn on different lathes, use different tools so you can be more informed before you buy.
Lots of excellent info here in our library and plenty of folks willing to answer your questions.
Also, a lot of info in YouTube videos. You have to decide which info is best for what you are doing.

Good luck!

Edit: Vic's post reminded me about the dust. You only have one set of lungs...they are precious...take care of them. If my lathe is running, I have a mask on.
I do have a dust collector sucking what it can right behind my Turning. I have a filter unit hanging from the ceiling running as well. I do have a fan and use it some when the garage door is open to blow some dust out but a lot of times, the fan is circulating that real fine dust that you don't want in your lungs.
Take precautions by using a face shield/safety glasses and ear protection.
Consider dusting off before entering the house. The dust you bringing in may affect you or your family.
Once you are safe, have fun!
 
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Welcome Bob.

Not sure why the PSI guys would steer you away from Fountain Pens unless they know what they sell is junk. I've only ever had one pen I made leak and it was because the feed housing was cracked around the trim ring. I replace the section and never had another do that. Since you are turning slimlines you can do a two section pen. The difference will be in assembling. Take a look at the convertible Triton over to ExoticBlanks. It comes with a rollerball and fountain pen nib.

To help with breathing in dust put a small fan behind you. Not the greatest solution but will blow it away from you.
 
I was just playing around yesterday turning large tree branches into cylinders. I found that I like my carbide tools the most overall, but this set of Robert Skorby tools that I bought without knowing what I was doing sure are nice. I only like the carbide tools the most because I am not really set up for sharpening yet. I have a 6" bench grinder with grey wheels and I use a stone to sharpen the edges.
 
Mr. Vic..Penn State told me that all of their sections, feeds, and nibs come from Taiwan. Whenever I have purchased a cheap Chinese pen I always change out a #6 nib from Goulet pens and it becomes one of the best writers I could have. Almost as good as my much more expensive pens. I've decided that if I am going to invest big money (to me) then it is going to be something that I made except for the section and nib. But I still have a lot to learn about tuning up a nib. I would like to learn to custom griind a nib but that is pretty far into the future.

Edit. Charlie I hate the way my respirator feels but I wear it. I always try to dust off good before coming into the house. I don't want to harm my wife's asthma.
 
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Welcome! Fountain pens are no more difficult to make than Slims. Have not made any PSI FPs, but have done a couple doz. Atrax and Jr. Gents. None have leaked that I know of. I really like the Atrax, it makes a great looking pen, is inexpensive, and can easily convert to a rollerball. A plus is that one set of bushings will work with many different FP kits that use 12.5 and 10.5mm tubes.

Regards,
Michael
 
Welcome to IAP, Bob !!!

As Michael said, FPs are no more difficult than slims ... in fact, they are easier, they turn out better, and you get more satisfaction from turning them and using them !!! . Go for it!

Also .... take the advice you got from that supplier you have been dealing with and move on . . You will get the positive support you need and great products from companies like ExoticBlanks, BearToothWoods, etc. ... Give them a phone call, give them a try, and you will be convinced.
 
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A good majority of the kits use the #6 size nib and will swap out with one of Brian Goulet's nibs. You can use the stock nib to practice tuning/grinding. They actually aren't too bad if you do a touch of tuning.
 
Mr Vic said:
A good majority of the kits use the #6 size nib and will swap out with one of Brian Goulet's nibs. You can use the stock nib to practice tuning/grinding. They actually aren't too bad if you do a touch of tuning.
Click to expand...

I put a several of his nibs on JinHao's. What I would really like to achieve is a nib as good as my Sailor pens. I own a few I guess mid priced pens as far as the fountain pen community is considered Pilot Custom 74, Pelican M200, Platinum 3776 Chartres Blue, Visconti Rembrandt Special Ops, Delta Horsepower, a few TWSBI's, a LAMY 2000 plus a few of their other pens. I also have some Noodlers Ahabs that I need to fool around with. They leak like sieves. I also have a few vintage pens. Parker 51 which is really special to me because this particular pen was manufactured in 1951 which is the year I was born. Several Esterbrooks and a other pens that I need to get around to restoring.
 
About PSI's fountain pens... Although I have not used them much, I have sold over 20 of their fountain pens and have never had any complaints. Also, like the others said, the fountain pens are not much more difficult than the slimlines.
 
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