heat to dry?

[Rifleman1776]

Since switching to a laquer finish, I have been frustrated at the length of time required for the finish to completely dry and cure. It is often nearly a week. My shop, this time of year, is pretty cool, probably in the 50's at night. Been wondering if harm would be done to speed up process with something like a hair dryer. Anybody here tried this? Warnings? Ideas?

 

[Thumbs]

Frank, I don't mean to sidetrack your lacquer questions but I was looking through a couple other threads and saw that you were disatisfied with Mylands FP longevity. I had no better luck with this than with some of the other FP's until I took Eagle's suggestion of "cooking" it on! I mean smokin' HOT! It can be tough on the fingers but is much better and longer lasting when you do this. It does still seem to like a few days of curing time without being handled too much but seems to work much better than just rubbing on and letting it dry.[]

 

[wdcav1952]

Frank,

You might want to have a drying rack the the wife will approve of and bring your drying pens into a warmer room. Someone, I believe it was Russ said to put them on top of the hot water heater under a box to give a warm environment to dry in.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br />Frank,

You might want to have a drying rack the the wife will approve of and bring your drying pens into a warmer room. Someone, I believe it was Russ said to put them on top of the hot water heater under a box to give a warm environment to dry in.

Makes sense. I copied Raymond (as in "Everybody Loves....), my desk is in the basement next to the hot water heater and furnace. Just bring a drying rack in here. Nobody would notice. I could hide a Volksvagen in here.

 

[timdaleiden]

Frank,

I don't know what kind of lacquer you are using, but I tried a hair dryer once with Deft, and it blistered. It took a lot of time to fix it too.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by Thumbs
<br />Frank, I don't mean to sidetrack your lacquer questions but I was looking through a couple other threads and saw that you were disatisfied with Mylands FP longevity. I had no better luck with this than with some of the other FP's until I took Eagle's suggestion of "cooking" it on! I mean smokin' HOT! It can be tough on the fingers but is much better and longer lasting when you do this. It does still seem to like a few days of curing time without being handled too much but seems to work much better than just rubbing on and letting it dry.[]

I'm willing to experiment on a wuthluss blank. But, from my Myland's use, I found that it dries so quickly that a few seconds after application it will get tacky and grab the material being used to apply it. It will actually tear off hunks of paper towel or pull a small scrap of cloth out of ones hands. Don't know what Eagle's technique is but I'm determined to improve my finishes. My desire to apply and assemble in a New York minute has proven to be less than desirable. I'm now willing to be more patient and try the sand-again-after-finish application technique. Did that with a Bethlehem olive wood Euro the other day. Finish beautiful, not high gloss but smooth and unblemished. Perfect, I think for that wood.

 

[jdavis]

force drying is not desirable. need to cure on their own