Grain matching

[Heartwoodturning]

So how does everybody like to grain match?

Once I have finished and the work is still on the lathe I take a photo with my phone. When I come to assembling the pen I refer to the photo. I hope this tip helps.

 

[Skie_M]

Well, it might actually help to take several photos, or you could just mark the blank before you cut it to size and drill it.


Mark the center of your pen blank (obviously making a 2-barrel pen), and cross that mark with a line that runs down the lengthwise of the pen ... only an inch or so, right where you're cutting, so that you can line it back up again after the cut.

When you put it on the lathe, the marks should be facing each other, so that the grain pattern lines up.

As you cut the pattern you wish to have on the lathe, on end will naturally become the nib end, and the other will naturally become the finial end... when you pull it off the lathe, keep it properly oriented till you are ready to assemble it. (I like to just keep the parts oriented so that the pen tip and body are always lined up front to back.)

During assembly, make sure your forward section and rear section line up properly where you wish it to be ... for example, do you want the pen to look close to a 1-piece design when the pen is in use, or when the tip is retracted and the pen is not in use?

 

[Heartwoodturning]

I always draw a line down the blank and once it is cut in half I put an arrow on each half pointing towards what will be the centre of the pen so I can't get them the wrong way around when I put them on the lathe. However during the turning process the line is removed because the wood is removed. I use a vice to assemble each half of the pen. When I first started turning sometimes I found it hard to match the grain up again unless it was obvious. Thats why i take the photos.

 

[Don Rabchenuk]

I mark the inside of the tube with a sharpie on the mating ends prior to turning.

 

[jcm71]

I mark the inside of the tube with a sharpie on the mating ends prior to turning.

That is what I do as well.

 

[jttheclockman]

I too mark the inside of the tube. Simple little witness mark will do.

 

[robertkulp]

I use a Sharpie and draw a line on the outside of the blank before cutting. After it's tubed, I draw a lines on the inside of the tubes that correspond to the original lines. During assembly, I'll put a small piece of blue or green painter's tape on the blank and draw matching lines. Then, just match them up and press together.

In addition to grain matching, keep in mind that if you are making fountain pens, you need to orient the nib, the cap insert, and the body's end-cap such that the clip and nib will align when it's posted. Even if you're making a roller ball, if it can be converted, go ahead and use a FP nib and align it properly.

 

[mecompco]

I use a Sharpie and draw a line on the outside of the blank before cutting. After it's tubed, I draw a lines on the inside of the tubes that correspond to the original lines. During assembly, I'll put a small piece of blue or green painter's tape on the blank and draw matching lines. Then, just match them up and press together.

In addition to grain matching, keep in mind that if you are making fountain pens, you need to orient the nib, the cap insert, and the body's end-cap such that the clip and nib will align when it's posted. Even if you're making a roller ball, if it can be converted, go ahead and use a FP nib and align it properly.

Great suggestions! I keep forgetting to mark the inside of the tubes and have spent way too much time pondering the proper orientation. TBCs makes it even more confusion-prone, doing one blank at a time (not to mention working on multiple pens at the same time).

Just getting into FPs, have not done a postable one yet--would quite likely never have though about the proper clip alignment. Now I know. Thanks! :biggrin: