SDoxey
Member
I read the articles in the library but am still a little confused.
Anyone got a easy cheap way to get started?
Anyone got a easy cheap way to get started?
Good casting methods?
- Thread starter SDoxey
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ccccchunt
Member
Pen Blanks? Just get some 3/4 or 1" white PVC pipe. Cut to length and tape the bottom end shut. I use duct tape, followed by a horizontal layer of painters tape to ensure a good seal.
If you do not have a pressure pot, you will have to cast a resin other than Alumilite. I personally use Stone's resin for unpressurized castings and have never had a problem.
You can also use polyester resin to cure without pressure. Personally, I cannot stand the smell so I stay away from the stuff but others have had excellent luck with it.
If you do not have a pressure pot, you will have to cast a resin other than Alumilite. I personally use Stone's resin for unpressurized castings and have never had a problem.
You can also use polyester resin to cure without pressure. Personally, I cannot stand the smell so I stay away from the stuff but others have had excellent luck with it.
Joebobber
Member
If you cut out the pressure pot, you can use anything for a mold. I still use cardboard and duct tape when doing bigger things. Then all you pay for is resin and dye.
jttheclockman
Member
Polyester resins need pressure. Epoxy resins need no pressure.
SDoxey
Member
Thanks!
socdad
Member
I thought that Epoxy resins need pressure & Polyester resins do not need pressure, it is entirely possible I had it backwards all these years ...
jttheclockman
Member
yes you did sorry.
Incorrect. Neither require pressure or vacuum. Polyester will release the entrapped air with vibration, or better yet, don't introduce the air to begin with. Epoxy will release entrapped air using heat. Again, don't introduce the air in the beginning.
Urethane on the other hand, does require pressure.
jttheclockman
Member
good luck with that. been casting for a long time. I need pressure on poly and no pressure on epoxy. My opinion.
Precisely. You base your opinions on one resource.
There are actual professional resin experts, that are willing to share any information that one is willing to ask for, as opposed to the weekend casting warrior. I've seen reports of those that are regarded here as casters, or the go to people, have inconsistent casts, air inclusions, etc. Some of those, are even sold through popular suppliers.
A lot of manufacturer's have dedicated representatives based across several platforms, that help anyone that uses their products.
They have simple, and precise video's for their products as well.
I have learned more about resins, than I even thought there was information. Seek this information, and you'll likely change your opinion.
jttheclockman
Member
Wouldn't you at least agree that all casting could benefit from using a pressure pot. Vibration is just another means of release air bubbles. If that is what you are holding against my statement then I stand corrected. Just because you said and all your info say that poly does not need pressure is it not better to walk on the caution side of the sidewalk? Because epoxy resins take a long time to kick is why they can withstand no pressure but with poly alot can depend on the amount of catalyst used. Air bubbles is the culprit. When you say do not introduce air. Again a hard thing to do because we all stir. You can maybe get away with it if the resin is heated before mixed. It thins it out. Remember it is amateurs here that are asking because if they were pros they would not be asking. I believe each and every question asked here the responses are based on one's experience and not so much as scientific data. Sorry I will never change my opinion. I could be totally wrong in my response but it works for me.
One thing I should add is I have not tried all resins on the market because new ones keep popping up and I only use Silmar41 so am basing my opinion on that resin (poly).
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Absolutely use what works for you.
Polyester, when mixed properly, has plenty of pot life to eliminate any air.
If you are getting the gel reaction in less than 15-20 minutes, then there is too much catalyst added.
If air is introduced, several things can eliminate it without a pressure pot. A pressure pot doesn't eliminate the bubbles, it just compresses them. If they are large, they will still be prevalent in the final cast.
-Horizontal casting reduces the distance the bubble needs to travel to the surface vs. vertical (tube) casting.
-Warming the resin (as you mentioned) can reduce viscosity and help the bubbles to surface easier, but it comes at the cost of increasing the temperature of the resin, and reducing pot life. This could be your issue with gelling too soon.
-Vibration will force bubbles to surface, since the air is lighter than the resin.
-Mixing the color into the resin before catalyzing, will allow the resin time to evacuate the bubbles, and some gentle tapping of the container on a table will help speed the process.
-Adding the catalyst to each color, and gently mixing, will reduce the air introduced, and make elimination easier.
-One method to prevent the introduction of air, is to have a magnetic stirrer. It's not exactly practical for most casters, but with variable speeds, it works well to keep air out of the mix.
MRDucks2
Member
JohnU
Member
Best advice I can give you is figure out what you want to cast, then look at the "how" by checking out how others do it successfully. There are many Pro's and Cons's in every style and methods of casting and your goals and set up will help you narrow down how you want to do it. It really doesn't matter if your a "weekend caster or an expert" because we all share our process and opinions based on our experiences. Usually new ideas come from new casters because they are the ones experimenting and not stuck in their own process yet. Whatever you decide, keep a notebook. What doesn't work is just as important as what does. Keep it fun and try new stuff!
jttheclockman
Member
Very very very sound advice from someone who is recognized as a top caster here. This advice goes for anything we try to do.
jttheclockman
Member
I believe you should write a tutorial for the library. I am sure Wayne would love to have it. Sharing your knowledge from many years studying resins would go a long way here because many people want to try their hands at casting. Thus the questions that come up. Good luck.
I doubt a tutorial would be beneficial. It would be plagiarism if anything, because it would state the same as any manufacturer's instructions.
By following those instructions, one is almost guaranteed success. If someone has a particular question, about a specific brand and type of resin, they should contact that manufacturer. When casting, one should always use a casting resin, since it's designed for thicker pours. Casting resins have become popular, and most companies have their their own formula. Just follow that brands instructions, but only for that brand. Don't follow the same instructions across labels; always use the brand specific instructions.
Another thing that helps consistency and successful casts, is to measure by weight, not volume or guessing. A 1:1 mix is just that, exact same weights. When it states a 10% (usually max) weigh the resin and then weigh the catalyst. Never start at the max, depending on the volume, it could overheat and crack. This information is usually included with the resin. A basic scale with a tare function works well.
Another tip would be to read the SDS for each resin being used.
Casting is like most anything, it's only as difficult as it's made to be.
Displaced Canadian
Member
The secret to casting is it isn't that complicated. I use a kitchen scale to measure resin, PVC or CPVC pipe depending on the diameter of blank I want. Use some release agent. Masking tape to seal the end, a wire with the tip bent over to mix. If you don't bend the tip over you poke holes in the tape. I made a pressure pot out of a piece of galvanized pipe that holds 3 blanks. It has a cap on one end and an assortment of fittings to get down to an air hose fitting on the top. Mix some resin, use powder make-up, oil-based paint, I like Testors, or anything else Not water based to add color. Add the colored resin to the molds and don't mix too much. Clamp the pipe to a table leg, drop the molds in, put the cap on and connect to the compressor and wait until it's set. I like Alumilite slow or Diamond cast resin. Keep notes on what you did, how much of each color and how you mixed it. If you have any other questions let me know and I'll be glad to help you out.
Keep in mind, those are two different types (urethane vs. epoxy) of resin. They have different characteristics, as well as casting requirements.
Displaced Canadian
Member
I have noticed they turn and polish differently as well as one takes a lot longer to cure. I must confess I don't know much about the technical side. It would be interesting to look into. I also have a theory/ think blanks cast under higher pressure, I cast at between 70 and 90 PSI turn better than those cast without pressure. Not sure if it's true or not just something I noticed when I tried to cast one without using any pressure. Any thoughts?
MRDucks2
Member
Okay, I am beginning to fear misleading the OP with the original question NAES on the mix of answers here. We have answers based on knowledge and experience, answers which seem based on knowledge but no experience and answers based on experience but no knowledge.
Start out with epoxy or poly following the manufactures instructions. You can basically use anything you can keep from leaking with both of the resins. Poly has significant odor compared to epoxy. Because the success of all resins can be affected by ambient temperature, humidity and the characteristics of what you color/tint the resin with and anything else you put in the resin not only can your results vary but they will and may do so from one pour to another or doing the same pour in a different day. Experiment, have fun and keep good notes.
Ultimately you will find that some methods or products just don't work for you. Pay attention to how you stir, what you stir with, etc. By doing so, stirring and bubbles from such will become less of an issue.
When you find you have a specific issue as about that here or on other forums. Those with experience can share how they overcame it. Those with knowledge but no experience will simply tell you how you are doing it wrong. It is obvious to all who have tried that the methodology is neither always the same or consistent because there are also a variety of influencing factors.
If you want cheap, poly is the answer but it smells pretty strongly. Many epoxies and all urethanes are now pushing $200/gallon when purchased 2 gallons at a time. Not necessarily cheap. Enjoy!
Start out with epoxy or poly following the manufactures instructions. You can basically use anything you can keep from leaking with both of the resins. Poly has significant odor compared to epoxy. Because the success of all resins can be affected by ambient temperature, humidity and the characteristics of what you color/tint the resin with and anything else you put in the resin not only can your results vary but they will and may do so from one pour to another or doing the same pour in a different day. Experiment, have fun and keep good notes.
Ultimately you will find that some methods or products just don't work for you. Pay attention to how you stir, what you stir with, etc. By doing so, stirring and bubbles from such will become less of an issue.
When you find you have a specific issue as about that here or on other forums. Those with experience can share how they overcame it. Those with knowledge but no experience will simply tell you how you are doing it wrong. It is obvious to all who have tried that the methodology is neither always the same or consistent because there are also a variety of influencing factors.
If you want cheap, poly is the answer but it smells pretty strongly. Many epoxies and all urethanes are now pushing $200/gallon when purchased 2 gallons at a time. Not necessarily cheap. Enjoy!
Deb WI
Member
Can you use a metal tin (with silicone spray) as a mold in a pressure pot? Thx.
Painfullyslow
Member
You could but even with mold release it would be problematic getting the cast out of the mold. You would likely have to destroy the tin during removal, at least that has been my experience.
JohnU
Member
When I began, I was using off brand plastic Tupperware type sandwich containers from the dollar store. Most food containers will work as long as the recycle code isn't #6. I prefer # 1-2 or 5. After that I made my own with cutting board hdpe but soon found out they get brittle and crack, and the textured surface doesn't allow for easy removal of the cast. You can also use prescription bottles as a one time mold because you'll have to turn the bottle off the cast on the lathe. There are several things that can be used at the dollar stores. Just know the blank size you want to make so you know your container is long enough. Also, single blank molds are ok but you'll get more character in your casts if you pour a block and cut your blanks from it.
Casting is a rabbit hole…. You start out with a couple simple pours and then find yourself trying lots of ideas. It can get expensive as you go because the resin never seems to last long, especially when your having fun experimenting. Just dont be too focused on the "cheap" way. Sometimes you find you'll save money in the long run spending a little extra money to get the proper tools to get the results you're looking for rather than using up a lot of resin trying to make something else work. Good luck!
Casting is a rabbit hole…. You start out with a couple simple pours and then find yourself trying lots of ideas. It can get expensive as you go because the resin never seems to last long, especially when your having fun experimenting. Just dont be too focused on the "cheap" way. Sometimes you find you'll save money in the long run spending a little extra money to get the proper tools to get the results you're looking for rather than using up a lot of resin trying to make something else work. Good luck!
Mike8850
Member
Don Ward (its virgil) has an excellent tutorial in the library on casting with out pressure .
"Casting Bubble Free Snake Skin"
Mike
"Casting Bubble Free Snake Skin"
Mike