Go to gouge for Pens?

[Cwalker935]

Despite turning countless pens, I have never settled on a go to chisel for pens. I've noticed that as I turn larger spindles I have gravitated toward using a roughing gouge more and more. This has carried over into pen turning where I do all but the final few passes with a large roughing gouge. I then switch to a small skew. My skew is a cheap one that I got in a set when I first started turning and it's reaching the end its useful life. I was never happy with it in the first place. So I decided to buy a Sorby Micro Roughing gouge and put a cholla and resin handle on it. I turned the handle with the micro gouge straight out of the package without any handle. With the handle I should have greater control and I think it will do well for pens from start to finish. I am going to sharpen it and do a slim line without sanding and see out it turns out.

 

[crokett]

For wood, I use a small spindle gouge for rough turning, then a versa chisel (cheaper version of a sorby spindle master) for the final turning. For any plastic - acrylic, polyester resin, etc I use a radiused carbide bit.
For aluminum and brass I use a flat HSS tool.

 

[jrista]

I use a roughing gouge for my wood pens. I use carbide tools, either negative rake or in a sheer cutting position, for resins.

 

[howsitwork]

Use a Robert Sorby HSS 1" roughing gouge to go from square blank down to near diameter. I like the weight, handle length feel and mass ( which stops vibration problems. Also with the 1" there's a lot of edge to use up between sharpenings.

I also got treated to one of the micro sets a few years back. A used it yesterday and I like it but NOT the aluminium handle with the knurling but works fine and holds a good edge. The knurling is just not my thing I'm afraid.

As I've mentioned before I finish with either my 1/2" or 1/4 dia HSS round skew made from some excellent Ashley Isles tool steel ( bought some more for " stock " 3 years back from Barry Isles, a great bloke at one off the UK shows, probably Harrogate ). Usually only need to hone this on a diamond stone for that final finish cutting edge .

Love the tool handle by the way.

Happy New Year ( and tool )

 

[mark james]

Early on I got the entire Sorby Mini set with two red handles at a 50% off sale at Hartville Hardware. I have used the mini roughing gouge and the mini spindle gouge extensively on small turnings and really like them. I have never used any of the other inserts; maybe when I'm old and grey... Opps, too late! I also like the knurled handles (My respects Ian ) . I also use a Sorby HSS 3/4" roughing gouge a lot for initial cuts.

Beautiful handle Cody.

Be well.

 

[Stuart Robertson]

Despite turning countless pens, I have never settled on a go to chisel for pens. I've noticed that as I turn larger spindles I have gravitated toward using a roughing gouge more and more. This has carried over into pen turning where I do all but the final few passes with a large roughing gouge. I then switch to a small skew. My skew is a cheap one that I got in a set when I first started turning and it's reaching the end its useful life. I was never happy with it in the first place. So I decided to buy a Sorby Micro Roughing gouge and put a cholla and resin handle on it. I turned the handle with the micro gouge straight out of the package without any handle. With the handle I should have greater control and I think it will do well for pens from start to finish. I am going to sharpen it and do a slim line without sanding and see out it turns out.

View attachment 324189

Just for interest I use a 3/8 bowl gouge with 40/40 grind for the entire job and can usually go straight to either 240 or 320 g for sanding.
I work a little above centre and can use the side of the gouge more like a mini skew,and the bottom of the gouge for roughing. Works well and allows a fine cut with small surface area.
Also use 1/2 inch skew at times.

 

[Woodchipper]

I got the harbor Freight set with the red handles. I use a roughing gouge to start then a skew (very slowly and carefully). Going to try a Bedan tool I made.
Just thought to add this: I saw a demo where the woodturner used a skew to round off a square blank of 2x2x6!

 

[Curly]

Stuart I use a bowl gouge too on both wood and plastic blanks. I lay it over so the gouge faces to the side and take deep slow cuts. I was removing 1/8" per pass until it is almost to size before using the skew to turn to size. Every turner seems to have a way that works for them that puzzles others.

 

[Stuart Robertson]

Stuart I use a bowl gouge too on both wood and plastic blanks. I lay it over so the gouge faces to the side and take deep slow cuts. I was removing 1/8" per pass until it is almost to size before using the skew to turn to size. Every turner seems to have a way that works for them that puzzles others.

I think when you start turning between centres it's a sequence you are taught;roughing gouge first ,followed by whatever after that,and it's safe.
On such a small dimension and because I don't have a tiny roughing gouge ,necessity becomes the mother of invention...and actually the bowl gouge works very well,as you also have found.
It's much harder to teach a less conventional method which uses analysis of the cut and tool position than a more wrote methodology.
With bowl gouge you can take exceptionally fine cuts too...so why pick up two tools.
I still use a large gouge for large work.
All the best

 

[WriteON]

I looked at a 3/4" Sorby roughing gouge but broke into a cold sweat when pricing. I do not really need it but want to try one. I currently use a 3/4" skew and use to wrong but it works for me. Other than the Sorby's what are the best quality gouges out there? And are they a mystery to sharpen.

 

[jrista]

I looked at a 3/4" Sorby roughing gouge but broke into a cold sweat when pricing. I do not really need it but want to try one. I currently use a 3/4" skew and use to wrong but it works for me. Other than the Sorby's what are the best quality gouges out there? And are they a mystery to sharpen.

I went all in on Carter & Son tools last year. They use M42 steel, which holds the edge much longer. I have been using their roughing gouge almost exclusively for turning wood blanks down. Sharpening is the easiest it gets if you have something like the the wolverine sharpening system or similar. Just put the back of the handle in the pocket, align the angle on your wheel, and sharpen by rotating the tool back and forth. Should be the same for any roughing gouge. There really isn't an easier tool to sharpen, which is one of the reasons I like using one to turn my wood pen blanks.

Personally, I use the Pro Grind system, which includes in a single system a huge amount of tools for sharpening, that each cost a lot extra with the wolverine system (all told, if you bought everything for Wolverine that comes with the Pro Grind for $120, you are going to be out well over $200). It has this handy little shift block that you drop in the pocket to get the secondary bevel angles just right. Another handy feature, if you find that you need secondary bevels on any tool to get around corners and the like. In either case, Pro Grind or Wolverine, there is no easier tool to sharpen than a basic roughing gouge, IMO.

 

[WriteON]

Personally, I use the Pro Grind system, which includes in a single system a huge amount of tools for sharpening, that each cost a lot extra with the wolverine system (all told, if you bought everything for Wolverine that comes with the Pro Grind for $120, you are going to be out well over $200). It has this handy little shift block that you drop in the pocket to get the secondary bevel angles just right. Another handy feature, if you find that you need secondary bevels on any tool to get around corners and the like. In either case, Pro Grind or Wolverine, there is no easier tool to sharpen than a basic roughing gouge, IMO.

Sorby ProEdge here. It has jigs/etc... I'd have to figure them out.