Glueing wood to metal recommendation...

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Timbo

Timbo

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2008
Messages
1,188
Location
Kill Devil Hills, NC USA.
Had a very senior couple come by my booth a few week ago, the husband handed me his money clip (empty) and asked if I could repair it. They said he's had it for decades. It was made of some sort of cast metal, and had a recess that held a decorative inlay that was made from two types of wood. The inlay had cracked and was missing a large piece. He didn't say why, but I could tell by the way he talked about it that it held some significant meaning to him. To make a long story short, I agreed to fix it at a cost that nowhere represents the time I'm going to spend on this job...I'm a sucker for seniors.

Anyway, the original wood inlay was glued to the metal with some sort of contact cement. I'm not sure that's the best thing to use. I was thinking of using epoxy. What would your recommendation be? Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Timbo said:
Had a very senior couple come by my booth a few week ago, the husband handed me his money clip (empty) and asked if I could repair it. They said he's had it for decades. It was made of some sort of cast metal, and had a recess that held a decorative inlay that was made from two types of wood. The inlay had cracked and was missing a large piece. He didn't say why, but I could tell by the way he talked about it that it held some significant meaning to him. To make a long story short, I agreed to fix it at a cost that nowhere represents the time I'm going to spend on this job...I'm a sucker for seniors.

Anyway, the original wood inlay was glued to the metal with some sort of contact cement. I'm not sure that's the best thing to use. I was thinking of using epoxy. What would your recommendation be? Thanks.
Click to expand...

E6000 available at Michael's and other craft stores. It will allow the wood to move and not get damaged as it expands and contracts. Similar to silicon when you apply it.
 
I would use epoxy. Epoxy is generally good for bonding dissimilar materials. You could scuff the metal surface up just like you would a brass tube for a pen.
 
E-6000 -- works like epoxy with flexibility. This has been used in the craft and jewlery side for many years with good success.

WeldBond is an alternative that I have also had good success with. Works with a number of different materials and dries clear -- but is not flexible.
 
Last year I restored a straight razor that was made in the 1940's.

I replaced the original buffalo horn with Santos Rosewood w/ brass liners.

I tried a high temp epoxy at first to adhere the wood to the brass, but it quickly came off when working (I did follow prep directions). My local Ace then gave me some Pilo Bond contact cement. Nothing phased it, and I doubt it will ever come off.

Strong stuff.
 
OK. I picked up some E6000 today...using my 40% off coupon of course. After I complete finishing the top of the inlay, I'll give it a shot. Thanks everyone for you input.
 
Last edited:
Money Clip Repair

Thanks to all those who helped select the right adhesive. I thought I'd post a shot of the repair job for those who might be interested in the results.

Near as I could tell the original wood was Padauk and Maple. The suspected Padauk had discolored severely, but breaking off a fresh piece revealed a bright red/orange color...so I when with that. The original design was made with the a 2-wood lamination, that was cut into 3 pieces, then glued back together at odd intersecting angles. I did not attempt to reproduce the exact same pattern, just an approximation. I used the Marquetry technique of placing one piece of wood on top of another, then cutting a pattern. The edge of the left/right top piece will then match the opposite bottom piece. This was actually a fun distraction. Thanks for looking.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom