bhenr99
Member
What is the best method to glue the tubes in cartridges? Thanks for any help.
Bob
Bob
Glueing brass tubes in cartridges
- Thread starter bhenr99
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PaulDoug
Member
I solder mine in. Use a butane torch. A lot of people use glue or epoxy. Just make sure the tube and casing are real clean where you solder or glue. I also counter bore my casing just a hair so the solder stays in the "trough", helps keep it off the back of the cartridge.
Sylvanite
Member
I have slightly different techniques for different calibers. For 30-06, I seat a boat-tail bullet at the right depth so that the tube seats around the bullet base when the other end is just below flush of the case head. l also countersink the hole in the case head slightly.
When I test-fit a tube before gluing, I press it all the way in and can feel the tube drop into place. Then I slide it back out a bit, put a very small bead of thick CA glue around the tube near the end, and push it back in. A gentle twist helps the tube slip back where it belongs and naturally centers the tube in the hole. If I haven't used too much glue, the excess is contained in the countersink.
Details and pictures can be found at http://littlerivercrafts.home.mindspring.com/Supplies/30-06Instructions.pdf.
I hope that helps,
Eric
When I test-fit a tube before gluing, I press it all the way in and can feel the tube drop into place. Then I slide it back out a bit, put a very small bead of thick CA glue around the tube near the end, and push it back in. A gentle twist helps the tube slip back where it belongs and naturally centers the tube in the hole. If I haven't used too much glue, the excess is contained in the countersink.
Details and pictures can be found at http://littlerivercrafts.home.mindspring.com/Supplies/30-06Instructions.pdf.
I hope that helps,
Eric
arjudy
Member
I glue a piece of acrylic on one end of the tube and turn it down to the inside diameter of the bullet end of the pen and drill out the primer end to fit the brass tube and then use a little epoxy to glue the tube in.
C. Scott
Member
Bob,
This is what I do. I mostly use 30.06 shells, but I've done 7.62mm and .34 caliber successfully also.
I drill out the head of the casing to 5/16" on the lathe using drill chucks.
I then cut a length of 5/16" OD brass tubing to match the length of the casing.
I then dimple the brass tubing with a small punch. (I'll explain later)
Then I lightly sand the outside of the tube (probably not necessary), clean with acetone, put a dab of thick CA inside the neck and then insert/press the tube into the casing from the head end. It should be flush on both ends. Any prutrusion can be easily trimmed by hand with countersink bit.
The casing then goes on the lathe to be polished and sealed with white PPP. You'll have to use a 7mm tube as a bushing for inside the casing should you choose to polish on the lathe. (I don't powder coat the casings)
Then I prep the 7mm tube like I would for any other pen; sand and clean. I then press the nib onto the 7mm tube. (I don't use real bullets, just the standard slimline nib)
Lastly, I dab thick CA inside the casing and insert/press the tube into the neck of the casing.
The CA and the dimples combine to hold the lower tube securely in the casing and when the transmission is pressed in, it is very secure.
I then make up the upper barrel, usually antler, and finish with CA.
I thank Monty for suggesting this method as I tried lots of different ways to secure the 7mm tube inside the casing with much frustration and little success. This way works best for me.
My problem is everybody wants to buy my "Deer Hunter" pen (as I call it), but I'm not crazy about making them. I much prefer wood over antler, but I get $50 a pen and my customers don't even flinch. Hmm, maybe I should charge more.
I hope this helps!
This is what I do. I mostly use 30.06 shells, but I've done 7.62mm and .34 caliber successfully also.
I drill out the head of the casing to 5/16" on the lathe using drill chucks.
I then cut a length of 5/16" OD brass tubing to match the length of the casing.
I then dimple the brass tubing with a small punch. (I'll explain later)
Then I lightly sand the outside of the tube (probably not necessary), clean with acetone, put a dab of thick CA inside the neck and then insert/press the tube into the casing from the head end. It should be flush on both ends. Any prutrusion can be easily trimmed by hand with countersink bit.
The casing then goes on the lathe to be polished and sealed with white PPP. You'll have to use a 7mm tube as a bushing for inside the casing should you choose to polish on the lathe. (I don't powder coat the casings)
Then I prep the 7mm tube like I would for any other pen; sand and clean. I then press the nib onto the 7mm tube. (I don't use real bullets, just the standard slimline nib)
Lastly, I dab thick CA inside the casing and insert/press the tube into the neck of the casing.
The CA and the dimples combine to hold the lower tube securely in the casing and when the transmission is pressed in, it is very secure.
I then make up the upper barrel, usually antler, and finish with CA.
I thank Monty for suggesting this method as I tried lots of different ways to secure the 7mm tube inside the casing with much frustration and little success. This way works best for me.
My problem is everybody wants to buy my "Deer Hunter" pen (as I call it), but I'm not crazy about making them. I much prefer wood over antler, but I get $50 a pen and my customers don't even flinch. Hmm, maybe I should charge more.
I hope this helps!
cozee
Member
I sleeve the nib/bullet end with a piece of 8mm pencil tubing (PSI), drill the primer end with a 7mm bit and solder it all together. Viola!! Bullet proof!!!!
I do ream the inside of the tube prior to installing the transmission as it is easy to total one out since the soldered joint allows for no expansion.
I do ream the inside of the tube prior to installing the transmission as it is easy to total one out since the soldered joint allows for no expansion.
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