friction polish question (part 2)

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crash

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ok.. i am learning more each day i come here,..

i asked about making my own the other day.. (i nixed that idea)

now which friction polish do you like for wood, i looked

at hut crystal coat, and mylands.. and there is also

behlen finish.. are any of these superior to the others..

(if so please tell me why.. i am still quiet green at this)..

i have read that some people use cellulose sanding sealer in

conjunction with some of these .. what does this add or detract..

sorry for the multi part question..

and thanks again.

pete
 
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Pete,
I think that you're going to get a lot of different opinions to this question . My favorite one is "Turners Polish" which is the same as Behlan's in the US. I usually apply a coat or 2 of paste wax as a final coat .
 
I started out useing Hut's crystal coat[:(][:(][V], but it would show my finger prints[V], and fill tacky[:(!][:(!]. I use Mylands friction polish. I think it is the best.[8D][8D][8D]
 
Guess what my comment is towards friction polish...just to letters...CA
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by Pen Man
<br />I started out useing Hut's crystal coat[:(][:(][V], but it would show my finger prints[V], and fill tacky[:(!][:(!]. I use Mylands friction polish. I think it is the best.[8D][8D][8D]
Click to expand...
 
I've used the friction polishes---but, haven't lasted well for me, and I think most others. I now use just CA on my pens and use EEE Ultra Shine after CA then Renaissance Wax.
 
You will find that most of the experienced turners don't use Hut. Been there, done that. It doesn't last. CA takes some experience and some are unable to use it do to reactions to the odor or the contact. That seems to be the Holy Grail in penturning is the perfect finish. I'm still looking.[:)] Kirk[8D]
 
For most turnings I am a fan of Myland's friction polish. But for pens, I have found it is not durable. My personal pen is a test instrument for that. Even protected with Johnsons paste wax, both wear through with just a few handlings. Then I tried Myland's with sanding sealer and then Myland's melamine. Not so good, stayed tacky and didn't dry smooth. Then, just for the 'h' of it, I tried my old method of Myland's sanding sealer, friction finish then the melamine. Works great, dries quickly and looks nice. I found that less is more of the melamine. In other words, don't slosh it on, just a drop on a cloth is sufficient (actually two drops, one for each part of the pen blank).




Originally posted by Pen Man
<br />I started out useing Hut's crystal coat[:(][:(][V], but it would show my finger prints[V], and fill tacky[:(!][:(!]. I use Mylands friction polish. I think it is the best.[8D][8D][8D]
Click to expand...
 
I use Myland's friction polish. Haven't tried any other finishing methods. This one works fine for me. Then again I have never seen/held a CA finish pen or many of the other finishes.
 
I went from home brew friction polish, to Mylands and thought the Mylands was a huge inprovement. However I mostly do CA blo now due to the great hard wearing finish. I still use friction polish on stabelized wood since wear as not as much of an issue. My work pen is a resin stabelized Redwood burl (from Az Sillouete) Jr. Gents with friction polish to top it off and it looks great after months of use.
 
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