Flash photography on exotic woods

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farmer

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2012
Messages
807
Location
NV
My set up.
AB/1600 strobe
PCB 10x36 foldable soft box
Wescott boom /13 ft HD light stand.




sorry not pens pocket chalkers


I used linearpolarized film over my strobe and a CPL on my lens.
I also think the white back drop looked the most professional
I didn't have any gray paper so I used a gray thermal T shirt


The book Light Science and Magic helped the most.
There is a section in the book that talks only about photographing exotic woods with a smooth finish.

Hope this helps some of you guys.




farmer
 
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Pics look fantastic... nice use of a strip bank... pretty much a perfect tool for photographing pens...

Paul Buff makes some fantastic stuff. All our studio and location lighting are from him. The Alien Bee's are great lights, and they have held up great over the years, We still have a bunch of the Ultras too, which are much heavier (all metal vs plastic). We've had the Ultras a LOT longer, so I have not had any of the Bee's need repairs (tho one has a noisy fan that may be going soon), but whenever we had an Ultra act up they always repaired them quickly and for an unbelievable price. I can't remember how many people I have sold on his stuff. Never bought any of his softboxes tho for some reason, We have a good selection that we have had forever, so we just didn't need any more...
 
Lighting

toddlajoie said:
Pics look fantastic... nice use of a strip bank... pretty much a perfect tool for photographing pens...

Paul Buff makes some fantastic stuff. All our studio and location lighting are from him. The Alien Bee's are great lights, and they have held up great over the years, We still have a bunch of the Ultras too, which are much heavier (all metal vs plastic). We've had the Ultras a LOT longer, so I have not had any of the Bee's need repairs (tho one has a noisy fan that may be going soon), but whenever we had an Ultra act up they always repaired them quickly and for an unbelievable price. I can't remember how many people I have sold on his stuff. Never bought any of his softboxes tho for some reason, We have a good selection that we have had forever, so we just didn't need any more...
Click to expand...


Thank you it was a learning lesson to get my photography to this point.
My main goal was photographing Custom pool cues.
I ship global and my out of country customers are very picky when it comes down to the pictures.
Not only that but all return trans actions I am out shipping costs.
My Customer satisfaction is 100 % and I believe good photographs helped in that area.

I also have one white lightening 1500 strobe and PC Buff soft box and HD light stand with the wireless triggers.

I need a roll of black and 18% gray seamless backdrop paper..

Farmer
 
set up

JohnGreco said:
Interesting set-up. What size lens and f-stop are you shooting at?
Click to expand...

The lens is a Canon TSE 17mm f4 L with a 145mm fotodiox CPL
I also use a TSE 24mm L lens to in product or commercial photography to.

Pens are small enough that I think allot of differ lenses would do a Great job.
But my favorite lens is The TSE 17mm.
It is a great landscape lens too.



100 ISO F12 to f22 on the F stop 1/250 S speed.

The only reason I can photograph these products with such a bright lite is because of the Linear polarized film I Velcro to my soft box.

If I wouldn't of the subjects would of been glared out or polarized reflection would white it out.
It is a photography technic called Cross polarization


When I am done with this photo shoot I will remove the linear polarized film so everyone can see the difference.

Farmer
 
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Looks like your setup is working well for you. Thanks for posting your results.

I am in the process of researching the use of flash for my pen photography, up until now I have been using a homemade light tent in a box, it can produce OK results, but I struggle with reflections and showing gloss levels. I think to take my photography to the next level I need to leave the tent/box behind.
I am struggling a bit deciding to go continuos lighting or flash.

Thanks for the tip on the book, I will see if I can get hold of a copy.
 
Lighting

Ironwood said:
Looks like your setup is working well for you. Thanks for posting your results.

I am in the process of researching the use of flash for my pen photography, up until now I have been using a homemade light tent in a box, it can produce OK results, but I struggle with reflections and showing gloss levels. I think to take my photography to the next level I need to leave the tent/box behind.
I am struggling a bit deciding to go continuos lighting or flash.

Thanks for the tip on the book, I will see if I can get hold of a copy.
Click to expand...


Don't go continuous lighting, Its not bright enough for the darker red woods, remember It takes light to see color and lots of light to see the dark red colors.
In my pictures I am zapping my pen and pocket Chalkers with light that is 7x brighter then the sun.
2nd reason tungsten light puts off way to much heat the linear polarized film can't handle it.
Continuous florescent lighting doesn't put out enough light.
At this point might as well buy the lighting that can be used on people too or portraits and people squint there eyes with continuous lighting shinning in there eyes...............

LED lighting doesn't produce polarized light. but I haven't tried them so I cannot give a opinion or test one .
But I think a couple LED flash lights would work if you had 4 hands and arms.

If you give me a week or so I will run some tests with my speed lite and some linear polarized film.
I think I can come up with some advise to some flash lighting that will be less then 120.00 bucks.

The Book Light science and Magic is what improve my Product photography.

The real experts are in a forum Photography on the Net.
great place to get expert advise on pen photography.

Light tents have there place in photography but they are not smooth surface photography friendly...............
farmer
 
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I have had a look for some of that linear polarizing film, doesn't seem to be readily available here in Australia, looks like I would have to import some.
Do you put the film straight over the top of the diffuser on your softbox ?

I was looking to go LED lighting if I was to go continuous lighting. I think I will experiment with my flash first to see what it can do for me, I will have to build a softbox for it.

Your 17mm lens is a lot wider than I would have considered for pens, are you having to crop your photos, or are you getting in that close as to fill the frame ?
I have used my 35mm f1.8 with good results, but mainly use a 105 f2.8 because it gives me a bit of room to access the pen in the tent without having to move the camera out of the way first.

I have checked out the Photograhy on the Net site, lots of good info on there, and seems to have a lot of helpful members.
 
photography

Ironwood said:
I have had a look for some of that linear polarizing film, doesn't seem to be readily available here in Australia, looks like I would have to import some.
Do you put the film straight over the top of the diffuser on your softbox ?

I bought my linear polarized film from a company in TEXAS, I know B&H photo carries it....
I sewed on velcro on the out side of my soft box and then taped the other side of the Velcro to the linear polarized film.
The light from the soft box goes thru a diffuser then the linearn polaorized film. < the technic Cross polarization will only work this way.
This were the book light science and magicis very important.
It helps you allot if you understand how light works how it reflects.


I was looking to go LED lighting if I was to go continuous lighting. I think I will experiment with my flash first to see what it can do for me, I will have to build a softbox for it.
I have never used LED lighting, I don't know how to advise you if this will work or not. I think it will and I think you might be able to make a linear polarized film tent.


Your 17mm lens is a lot wider than I would have considered for pens, are you having to crop your photos, or are you getting in that close as to fill the frame ?
I have used my 35mm f1.8 with good results, but mainly use a 105 f2.8 because it gives me a bit of room to access the pen in the tent without having to move the camera out of the way first.

The TSE 17mm L lens and my TSE 24mm L is a specialty lenses I bought just to photograph pool cues .
It might be the best lens made to do product photography, but inless you have a contract to do photography on some companies products then I wouldn't buy one.
But it sure does take some sharp photos. and yes I cropped the photos.



I have checked out the Photograhy on the Net site, lots of good info on there, and seems to have a lot of helpful members.
Click to expand...

Photography on the net forum is extremely helpful, same as the book light science and magic.
I will ask in the photo forum where someone in your country buys linear film.

I think a off shoe speedlite will produce some great photos.
I will do some tests with my speedlite and then I will post pictures.

The Book Light science and Magic is the place to start before you buy anything.
 
LED Lighting

LED Lighting doesn't emit electromagnet polarized waves.
But you need allot of light to see all the color thru the clear finish.

The Problem is LED lighting is or will be hard light or light that casts a hard shadow.

Once you defuse hard lighting into soft lighting the light become polarized light again.
You will need allot of light in a small area defused then filtered if the lighting creates heat, heat or not.
My strobes are air cooled with built in fans.

My photos where taken with my strobes turned up to 640 watt seconds.
I cannot say if LED lighting is the answer, the book Light Science and Magic only mentioned using tungsten strobes.
 
Un polarized light

I have been kind of busy and I don't really like removing the linear film off my Lighting systems
but here is the difference between using polarized light and non polarized light.
Non polarized light or cross polarization technic.


Polarized light same settings as above with out filters.


Farmer
 
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