First pen attempt and first failure!

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
bsshog40

bsshog40

Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
2,511
Location
Omaha, Tx
Well I got as far as putting my blanks on the mandrell until one of my blanks wouldn't tighten. Kept spinning on me. So after closer observation, I noticed the tube wasn't tight. I attempted to push it back out but it got stuck with about 3/8" sticking out. Went ahead and put a little more ca glue on but it wouldn't push back in. The tubes seem to go in a little loose and I'm not sure if thats normal. I'm using a 7mm bit with a 7mm pen kit. I think another problem I have is my ca glue is thin. Will thicker glue help it bond better? I'm trying another one right now but I'm using my gorilla glue this time. Much thicker than my ca glue. I do have a bottle of medium ca glue coming. Can't buy anything like that around here so have to buy online and wait. Lol Any other suggestions are appreciated.

Bobby
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Hi Bobby, I can't really comment on the use of CA glue for gluing tubes as I always use epoxy, specifically the BSI (Bob Smith Industries) that I get off Amazon. I am pretty new at pen making myself as I have only turned about 200 so far, but using epoxy, I have never had a problem with gluing tubes. I use the 5 minute cure and can usually glue up 3 to 4 pens at a time with a single "batch" of the mixed up epoxy before it starts to harden. I too do have a tiny bit of play with the tubes in the drilled out blanks, but the epoxy is pretty thick so it takes care of that.

Having said the above, I'm sure that there are many people who do just fine using CA. You will hear it numerous times on this forum that there are many ways to accomplish the same task. Don't be afraid to experiment to find the methods that work best for you. Good luck and just know we have all had our share of failures but we refine our processes as we make mistakes and soon arrive at a repeatable (mostly lol) process to make nice pens...
 
Yea, I'm gonna see how this Gorilla glue does. Its a lot thicker and seems to bond pretty good. I may move to an epoxy later when I get comfortable enough to pre-set my blanks. 200 pens? Nice! I'll be happy if I can finish one this wknd. Lol
 
If using CA for gluing the tube, I use medium. I rough up the tube with something like 200 grit sandpaper. Apply some CA to the tube, push all the way through the blank while twisting. Pull halfway out the other side and the reapply CA. Push back in while twisting and center in the blank. Make sure there is no accelerator in the air, and work quick.

Similar method with epoxy, you just get more time to work.

I recently switched to gorilla glue and it is one of the best changes I've made in a while. The gorilla glue seems to hold plenty good, it gap fills well, and is easier to clean excesd off the tube than CA or epoxy. Most important for me, I was having problems with blanks splitting on the ends where components are pressed, the gorilla glue seems to have helped eliminate this problem.

Just my 2 cents
 
CA will work great, but NOT thin!!


Best is thick for working time and gap filling. Medium will work, just not as easy.


Remember both water and heat are CA accelerants!! So wait for your blank to cool off if it got hot during drilling (as most will) or if you used water to cool it, wait for it to dry.


Several thousand pens made with CA, it can work fine.
 
ed4copies said:
CA will work great, but NOT thin!!


Best is thick for working time and gap filling. Medium will work, just not as easy.


Remember both water and heat are CA accelerants!! So wait for your blank to cool off if it got hot during drilling (as most will) or if you used water to cool it, wait for it to dry.


Several thousand pens made with CA, it can work fine.
Click to expand...
Good tips, thanks Ed!
 
If you are going to do any of the mentioned methods then make sure you use something to block the tube. I like to use playdo. Cheap and you can get many pens done with it. This will prevent many problems down the road. There are many options and will let others give theirs. But you need to keep the inside of those tubes pristine. If you happen to get glue inside get a small rats tail file and clean out. You can use a knife blade too but do not get glue inside and you save yourself some work.

Now if you happen to make the same mistake and do not want to lose the blank then just cut the remaining piece of tube off flush with the blank and glue it in from the other side. Makes no difference if there is a small space between 2 pieces of tubes.

So many tricks you will eventually pick up as you go. Staying with the tube thing, make sure you ream the inside edge before you insert the components. Will help when sliding in. Also may help to keep blank from cracking. They do make pen reamers.
 
bsshog40 said:
. . . see how this Gorilla glue does . . .
Click to expand...

Gorilla is all I have ever used. It is not the instant gratification that CA might be, but I believe it's flexibility actually helps me in the long run.

Plug the ends of your tubes to prevent the foaming glue from getting in. (I use sheets of that dental wax) Some use potato, or play-doh.

I always glued up the tubes, and let it cure for 24 hours before turning. My glue-up failures were always my fault having not spread the glue thoroughly through the blank. I have never had the glue 'let loose' when applied properly.

(I always breathed through the blank before spreading the glue and inserting the tube. Moisture helps the G-Glue cure. Not sure if it is necessary, but it is what I have always done.)
 
bsshog40 said:
Yea, I'm gonna see how this Gorilla glue does. Its a lot thicker and seems to bond pretty good. I may move to an epoxy later when I get comfortable enough to pre-set my blanks. 200 pens? Nice! I'll be happy if I can finish one this wknd. Lol
Click to expand...


I find many of the recommended drill bits are not the best fit. The fit should be a close sliding slip fit. There should be little wobble or movement when the tube is in the blank.

Gorilla glue original (Polyurethane) does expand during the cure process but the curing process can make the tubes slide out of the blank. You need to check the blank(s) about 20 min and 1 hr after gluing.

For CA glue use thick for gluing in tubes.

Lastly, if the brass tube is smooth, scuff the tube with some sandpaper to give a better bond to the blank.
 
Last edited:
I use BSI 5-minute or BSI 30-minute Epoxy, depending on how many blanks I need to glue up at once. With acrylic blanks, if you're painting the inside of the blank or the tube, give it at least 24 hours to cure before gluing. And last, John T gives good advice in his post above.
 
randyrls said:
I find many of the recommended drill bits are not the best fit. The fit should be a close sliding slip fit. There should be little wobble or movement when the tube is in the blank.

Gorilla glue original (Polyurethane) does expand during the cure process but the curing process can make the tubes slide out of the blank. You need to check the blank(s) about 20 min and 1 hr after gluing.

For CA glue use thick for gluing in tubes.

Lastly, if the brass tube is smooth, scuff the tube with some sandpaper to give a better bond to the blank.
Click to expand...

Drilling isn't a straightforward as it might seem! If your holes are too big for the tube, it might be your drilling setup. The hole might be bigger than the drill bit. The drill could slightly bent, or you might be inadvertently enlarging the hole as you repeatedly reinsert the bit into the blank. And you should be withdrawing and repeatedly inserting the drill bit to let it cool off during the drilling process as well as to clear the flutes. An overheated drill bit is especially bad on acrylics which can melt inside. I reinsert my drill bit before I turn the drill press on which ensures that I am following the original hole.

As for undersizing the drill bit, yes, but remember if you are reverse painting, you'll need to leave room for the thickness of the paint (which may be pretty close to the amount the hole is oversized)

Many here drill on the lathe-it seems to help, but I worry about the amount of play in my tailstock causing holes bigger than the drill bit.

Scuffing the tube is controversial-some here say it is essential, others never do it. I have no opinion. Try it both ways and see what works for you
 
Shock me said:
Many here drill on the lathe-it seems to help, but I worry about the amount of play in my tailstock causing holes bigger than the drill bit.
Click to expand...

I watched a youtube video where a guy used a skew to make a small center mark and then fed the drill but by hand without using the tailstock (I cant find the video I'm referring to, but its similar to this: https://youtu.be/VKtTvDnJ1bU). I assume that if you start on center, the bit will naturally stay centered. But if you start off-center, you're doomed. I haven't dared to try without the tailstock, but I usually mark the center and then adjust the play in the tailstock so the but is centered to start, results are generally pretty good. With some materials I use a little wax on the bit to prevent heat build-up, cooling the bit with denatured alcohol also helps.
 
My drilling has been much better since I bought a rockler jig. My homemade one may have been off a bit. I have my drill press set to about 860 rpms, always drill slow and back out to clean while drilling. Things seem to be better now. Lol
 
When I use Gorilla, I wrap a small rubber band end to end on the blank. It doesn't take a lot of traction to keep the tube in the blank and any residual rubber can be scraped away with a sharp knife.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom