First couple of pens and a issue

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
See more from BeeAMaker

BeeAMaker

BeeAMaker

Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2017
Messages
695
Location
Elkhart IN, USA
HI!
Been a while since I turned and first time making pens. I'm an EE by trade but have done a lot of wood work growing up and in my youth.

I got a new midi lathe and some basic pen kits to start with, so here it goes;

First Pen,
pen01.jpg


Second Pen,
pen02.jpg


Now for my issue,
issue.jpg


I had the right most chrome bushing seize up on the mandrel, basically welded itself to the shaft. I had to use a die cutter and cut the bushing off of the mandrel.

Has anyone had that happen? is it fairly common? I think maybe some sand paper grit got under it some how, maybe?? Not sure when it happened but I wonder if it was during when I was polishing it, I had the RPMs up to about 3K. Was that too fast maybe? The mandrel was tight (too tight?) so I don't see how anything got underneath it. I was using a Mandrel saver, not the knurled nut.

Thanks!
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I don't remember reading about that happening but I am sure it has. AS an EE, you are used to exacting standards. it works better to use calipers to measure the diameters rather than turning to the bushing size. Bushing sizes change every time they are nicked or sanded. Bushings should be considered as "consumables."

I know you aren't there just yet but another way to avoid the problem of stuck bushings is to use the "TBC" or turning between centers where bushings are used to get the blank round and then removed. Sizing is done by caliper measurements.

Some people love it, some hate it. Just throwing this out there for your information.
 
Last edited:
It's also possible that you may have inadvertently left debris inside the bushing when you put it on the mandrel .... clean them out periodically. Also, check to make sure that your mandrel saver is spinning freely ... if THAT is seizing up due to bearing damage, then it will grab that bushing and rub it against the mandrel, making THAT seize up too.


A good tip I saw once was to use a pair of 1/4" washers with a 1/4" lock washer in between them, sandwitched between the last bushing and the mandrel saver. The right amount of pressure is just enough to flatten the lock washer ... :)

(I used a pair of brass washers and a steel lock washer ... turned down the brass washers so that they are even with the bushings, came out looking nice!)
 
leehljp said:
I don't remember reading about that happening but I am sure it has. AS an EE, you are used to exacting standards. it works better to use calipers to measure the diameters rather than turning to the bushing size. Bushing sizes change every time they are nicked or sanded. Bushings should be considered as "consumables."

I know you aren't there just yet but another way to avoid the problem of stuck bushings is to use the "TBC" or turning between centers where bushings are used to get the blank round and then removed. Sizing is done by caliper measurements.

Some people love it, some hate it. Just throwing this out there for your information.
Click to expand...

I've already been looking into it, and have just read your other post on the subject. :) Actually I was looking into it before I even started, I can't believe the number of different bushings out there and as you stated, obviously only good for 2 or 3 turns and they will soon wear down. If they were cheaper it wouldn't be so bad, but it adds up.
 
Last edited:
BeeAMaker said:
Jgrden said:
Great finish on the black and red one.
Click to expand...

Thanks! That is #0000 steal wool followed by Mothers Mag &Aluminum polish.
I have some Novus also I will try on another, but mothers usually works better on other things I do.
Click to expand...

If you are using 0000 Steel Wool, a piece may have worked into the Bushing, and Ceased the Bushing to the Mandrel, or some of the Polish.
But for it to cease, indicates that the Mandrel and the Bushes have been turning at differing Speed's, therefor it is probable that you didn't have the Tail Stock tight enough, hence allowing the Mandrel to spin inside the Bushings.

I would sincerely suggest, that you consider using Abranet, say 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, grits, then use the Micro Mesh range, that way you will get a Top Finish, and have no chance of abrasive grit, getting into the Bushes.

Congratulations, with you Pens. Your turning is Excellent, though IMO, I would like to see the Profile, without the Fancy Beads, and Coves, leave them for Handles, Light Pulls, and Seam Rippers etc.
Nice choice of Blanks, and Kits.

Brian.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the Tips OZTurner. I tightened the Tail stock 3 times when I started out. I was afraid I was too tight. I'm trying to remember if I hit it with my tool. If I possibly stopped that bushing while everything else kept turning, that could do it. I don't think I hit it, but might be one of those things I simply didn't pay attention to.

It doesn't sound like it is a very common issue so hopefully it was just carelessness on my part. I have been thinking of getting some of those Micro Mesh pads.

Has anyone tried using Flame treatment? That is how we clear the edges of acrylic sheets for glass cabinets, wine racks, etc.
 
Use caution, some types of acrylics are quite flammable, ESPECIALLY in fine dust or ribbon form ... for that matter, so is wood!


The use of any type of cloth or loose material near a lathe is cause for concern. Having the material wrap around the spindle while it's turning can create an extreme work hazard instantly, especially when whipping around very thin strands of metal. You'll learn in an instant to NEVER EVER reach for the swarf spinning round a metal lathe, especially if you lose fingers in that instant! It's got razor sharp edges, and it's just as merciless as a lawnmower blade, only there's possibly hundreds of them in there and they are a twisted mass that will cut in any direction. GLOVES ARE NOT ENOUGH PROTECTION!

Obviously, this applies to the steel wool you are using for you sanding, which, by the way, is also flammable in that form. If the steel wool gets caught on the blank or mandrel, it'll start spinning, tearing and cutting through anything in it's way. Guess what? You were just holding it, and your fingers are in the way! Please use TINY pieces of that wool if you must, or forgo using it at all! 1000 grit paper is much cheaper than your fingers and peace of mind!


Micro mesh will get it up near the glassy finish you want ... those pads go up to 12,000 grit. Once you get there, hit it with some Plast-X rather than a flame torch, the buffing compounds in Plast-X approach 30,000 grit as they break down during use, leaving a gorgeous mirror shine behind.
 
Last edited:
BeeAMaker said:
HI!
Been a while since I turned and first time making pens. I'm an EE by trade but have done a lot of wood work growing up and in my youth.

I got a new midi lathe and some basic pen kits to start with, so here it goes;

First Pen,
pen01.jpg


Second Pen,
pen02.jpg


Now for my issue,
issue.jpg


I had the right most chrome bushing seize up on the mandrel, basically welded itself to the shaft. I had to use a die cutter and cut the bushing off of the mandrel.

Has anyone had that happen? is it fairly common? I think maybe some sand paper grit got under it some how, maybe?? Not sure when it happened but I wonder if it was during when I was polishing it, I had the RPMs up to about 3K. Was that too fast maybe? The mandrel was tight (too tight?) so I don't see how anything got underneath it. I was using a Mandrel saver, not the knurled nut.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I had the same thing happen with a rod bearing and a crankshaft years ago. Of course the culprit was friction. I'm a little confused (easily done) by your description of the issue. On my system the mandrel turns but but the bushings are stationary.

Tomas
 
tomas said:
... On my system the mandrel turns but but the bushings are stationary.

Tomas
Click to expand...

Wha??

OK, the bushings are SUPPOSED to turn WITH THE MANDREL AND YOUR BLANKS as well as the mandrel saver ... they are all supposed to turn at the SAME SPEED and the SAME DIRECTION.

The bushings are only supposed to be stationary relative to the mandrel and blanks .... they just help keep everything in place and give you a "ballpark" to get down to before you start to get serious about sanding and finishing efforts.

The lathe bed, toolrest, headstock, and tailstock are supposed to be stationary (they shouldn't move unless you need them to during your working operations).


If your mandrel is spinning and your bushings are not, you've got problems, my friend, and I have NO IDEA how you can fix that (or cause it, for that matter) ... are the blanks still spinning?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom