rlh
Member
I recently had some pen blanks stabilized. What finish is best to use on this wood being as how it has such a high plastic resin content? Would Enduro work well on it?
Finishing Stabilized Wood
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tipusnr
Member
I have never really considered that as I have never used much stabilized wood. Is there really that much resin in the blanks that it would overpower the wood?
Czarcastic
Member
Richard:
Everyone will have different opinions on this - I actually use two different finishes, depending on the wood. [
]
Usually - but not always - I polish with MM to 12000. If the wood is commercially stabilized, it should shine like glass at that point. What you cover it with is up to you, but I typically use 3 or 4 coats of Deft spray gloss lacquer. or a couple of dips in PSI woodturners dipping lacquer.
I recently tried polishing with HUT plastic polish after MM, and then a BLO/CA top coat. This was on Dyed/Stablized BEB. I really like the way that worked and will probably continue to do that as a time saver (10 minutes for BLO/CA vs. 2-3 days with lacquer).
Here is a LINK to the BEB pen. The picture isn't great, but the shine is really good on the finish.
Everyone will have different opinions on this - I actually use two different finishes, depending on the wood. [
]Usually - but not always - I polish with MM to 12000. If the wood is commercially stabilized, it should shine like glass at that point. What you cover it with is up to you, but I typically use 3 or 4 coats of Deft spray gloss lacquer. or a couple of dips in PSI woodturners dipping lacquer.
I recently tried polishing with HUT plastic polish after MM, and then a BLO/CA top coat. This was on Dyed/Stablized BEB. I really like the way that worked and will probably continue to do that as a time saver (10 minutes for BLO/CA vs. 2-3 days with lacquer).
Here is a LINK to the BEB pen. The picture isn't great, but the shine is really good on the finish.
As mentioned commercially stabilized blanks usually take a fantastic shine just being sanded to 12000MM... I also use plastic polish after that to bring out more shine... usually I just leave it alone at that point...
But if I want to put an overcoat on them, I use a system that YoYo Spin uses... cellulose sanding sealer (1-2 coats) then start at 4000 to 12000 MM and plastic polish... you get a shine like glass... a little Ren wax for protection and you are done...
But if I want to put an overcoat on them, I use a system that YoYo Spin uses... cellulose sanding sealer (1-2 coats) then start at 4000 to 12000 MM and plastic polish... you get a shine like glass... a little Ren wax for protection and you are done...
wayneis
Member
Richard, Enduro does work very nicely on stabilized blanks, especially the highly figured woods. Using Enduro will give you a depth that really makes the grain stand out. If you look at the articles I have one there that covers how I do it.
Wayne
Wayne
It may be a personal problem, but I have found enough bad spots in the stabilized wood to conclude that the plastic will not 100% fill the wood 100% of the time. Some wood is worse about this than others. Curly Koa is particularly bad about having fine lines, and sometimes bigger spots, of exposed wood showing through the plastic.
And, I have left enough stabilized wood as polished and without a finish to conclude that irregularities in the plastic won't show in some wood until after the pen has been used and there is a little surface wear.
Solution? I just go with the same process of filling the grain and finishing for everything, regardless of whether the wood is stabilized or not. The excess filler is sanded off where it isn't needed.
And, I have left enough stabilized wood as polished and without a finish to conclude that irregularities in the plastic won't show in some wood until after the pen has been used and there is a little surface wear.
Solution? I just go with the same process of filling the grain and finishing for everything, regardless of whether the wood is stabilized or not. The excess filler is sanded off where it isn't needed.
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