Ever have a pen that just wont take a CA finish?

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bgray

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I'm trying to turn a pen out of banksia. (the tree, not the pod).

I've never tried a CA finish on this material before, and I don't know if I ever will try again.

Unfortunate, cause it's really nice stuff....kind of like lacewood, but much tighter grain, and purplish.

I've done CA with african blackwood, nigerian ebony, (the ones that usually present a problem) I even did a CA pen with teak once successfully. A little lacquer thinner to break up the oils, and then quickly some thin CA to seal up those oils.

For the life of me, I can't get this banksia to get to the final stage without looking hazy.

I sand from 240 -800 silicon carbide.

Wipe down with lacquer thinner.

Then plenty of coats of CA.

Then 600-2500 silicon carbide, leaving no high spots or previous scratches.

Then 6000-12000 MM.

Then plastics polish.

Then Renaissance Wax.

I get through the plastics polish step, and I just can't get the haziness removed.

I've spent probably an hour and a half just on the finish stage of this pen.

I've given up. It's still on the lathe, and I figure that a good night's sleep will give me better perspective.

Right now, I'm just thinking that tomorrow I'll sand it down to bare wood, and just buff and wax...not my favorite finish, and it'll be a shame not to see the chatoyance that a good CA finish could give this wood, but alas...

Ever have a pen that you just won't take a CA finish? Any suggestions are VERY welcome.
 
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I weird I can't get the CA to take on Ebony for the life of me I try every time I make a pen with Ebony or blackwood I try and I cry.I was able to do it on banksia without a problem.
The solution for me when I try and can't get the CA to grab I go back to the wood and dip the @#$#)%#)%& blanks in lacker the gloss is awesome and the layer is nice and thick.
Good luck and let us know what did you do. A picture will be great.
Regards,
Alex
 
I feel your pain, Brian. I have about 30 or so different finishes in the basement. No one is best on all woods. I keep a notebook of my adventures such that I'm not always re-inventing the wheel. If you did all of those steps in a continuous 1-1/2 hour sitting, your problem may be the lacquer thinner. Lacquer thinner also has ALL KINDS of crud in it. Enough to challenge many finishes. The stuff FEELS dry on the surface, but I can almost guarantee you that is hasn't dried to the full depth of penetration. One thing to keep in mind is that if you can smell even a hint of the thinner, it is NOT dry. Trapping moisture under CA, or any finish, will cause cloudiness. CA does breathe, so the cloudiness may go away over the next week or so.
 
Never had a problem with CA on Ebony here is one with Dalmatian Ebony on top and solid black on the bottom and finished in CA .. but like DC says not all woods will NOT act the same ..Thou I have not had one yet not take a CA finish !!Thou some take more work than others IMO ..

ebonyeurorttgSmall.jpg
 
I agree with Lou, it might be the lacquer thinner. I think I would replace the lacquer thinner with denatured alcohol, making sure that you allow it plenty of time to evaporate before you proceed with your finishing.
I also would wipe it down again with DA after the MM and reduce speed to 500 rpm apply medium or thick CA while the lathe is turning. Allow the CA to cure for a couple of minutes then hit it lightly with excellerator. Then sand again with all the way through 12000. Do that twice, and see what that does for you. [:)]

Originally posted by bgray43050
<br />I'm trying to turn a pen out of banksia. (the tree, not the pod).

I've never tried a CA finish on this material before, and I don't know if I ever will try again.

Unfortunate, cause it's really nice stuff....kind of like lacewood, but much tighter grain, and purplish.

I've done CA with african blackwood, nigerian ebony, (the ones that usually present a problem) I even did a CA pen with teak once successfully. A little lacquer thinner to break up the oils, and then quickly some thin CA to seal up those oils.

For the life of me, I can't get this banksia to get to the final stage without looking hazy.

I sand from 240 -800 silicon carbide.

Wipe down with lacquer thinner.

Then plenty of coats of CA.

Then 600-2500 silicon carbide, leaving no high spots or previous scratches.

Then 6000-12000 MM.

Then plastics polish.

Then Renaissance Wax.

I get through the plastics polish step, and I just can't get the haziness removed.

I've spent probably an hour and a half just on the finish stage of this pen.

I've given up. It's still on the lathe, and I figure that a good night's sleep will give me better perspective.

Right now, I'm just thinking that tomorrow I'll sand it down to bare wood, and just buff and wax...not my favorite finish, and it'll be a shame not to see the chatoyance that a good CA finish could give this wood, but alas...

Ever have a pen that you just won't take a CA finish? Any suggestions are VERY welcome.
Click to expand...
 
I just did a Blackwood Statesman thats in my photo album. Not a great picture, I'm waiting for my new camera. Anyway, I did two thin CA layers then into the two thick CA layers. I've noticed that since I've been using wax paper to apply the CA, I don't get the dull spots. The last thick CA layer I let dry overnight, no CA. It came out real nice. I'm not an expert here, just wanted to let you know what I did to the Blackwood.
 
Originally posted by DCBluesman
<br />I feel your pain, Brian. I have about 30 or so different finishes in the basement. No one is best on all woods. I keep a notebook of my adventures such that I'm not always re-inventing the wheel. If you did all of those steps in a continuous 1-1/2 hour sitting, your problem may be the lacquer thinner. Lacquer thinner also has ALL KINDS of crud in it. Enough to challenge many finishes. The stuff FEELS dry on the surface, but I can almost guarantee you that is hasn't dried to the full depth of penetration. One thing to keep in mind is that if you can smell even a hint of the thinner, it is NOT dry. Trapping moisture under CA, or any finish, will cause cloudiness. CA does breathe, so the cloudiness may go away over the next week or so.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the comment on the lacquer thinner.

However, my first attempt was without lacquer thinner (sorry, I should have said that.)

I ended up sanding this pen down to bare wood three times last night, and the first two attempts were without lacquer thinner.

I'm going to try again today. I'm going to sand to bare wood, and then just let it sit for a couple of hours, make sure that it's dry of everything, and try again. If that doesn't work, then wax and buff.

Thanks everyone.
 
Are you sealing the wood? If so, what are you using? How long are you letting the sanding sealer cure before going ahead with the finish?

I was using Mylands and I kept getting a haze. I don't think I was letting it cure long enough. Now I seal with at LEAST three coats of thin CA. I get it sealed, then let is sit overnight. Next day I sand/polish the blank, then start with my finish. I let my finish sit one - two days before I start finish polishing it.
 
Finding dalmatian ebony can be a tad hard specialy cut to kina show dots hince its name.. Most of it a have stripes diffrent cut ! Nice also :O) thou ! I got mine on E bay a couple yrs ago ! The stuff thats been on there of late is not as nice IMO !

I can't comment on lacquer as I never use it on pens ! .. I guess because I never had any trouble getting CA to take ! BUT I work in a warm shop CA acts up in even a little cool weather ! IMO anyway !By the way I sealed that pen above with Mylands [:D].....

pipes
 
Try cleaning the wood with CA accelerator...it may help [;)]

Note: I never tried banksia though...in the same token, I have yet to try/find a wood I cannot use CA on and I've used quite a few varieties of wood.

The most difficult one for me to CA finish was American Chestnut Burl.
 
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