European pen turning

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
M

Marc Phillips

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2004
Messages
900
Location
Columbus, GA, USA.
Hi .... me again :D

I just made my first European pen, and encountered all the things that those of you who turn these all the time are very familiar with... namely the tenon etc...

I am a recent convert to turning between centers, and wasn't real happy having to put the mandrel back on the lathe for the Euro pen... although the mandrel must have missed me and performed like it's supposed to [^]

I read between the lines of those that replied to my post in the Show Off Your Pens! forum and it seems like there are more than a few ways to skin this cat... that is, turning the European pen...

Can you share some of your techniques and tips please?.... I like the size and weight of this kit, and will be doing more for sure.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Marc, I do a lot of Euros and am happy to share my experiences. But, it would be helpful if your question was more specific. However, what I have settled on with the Euro involves very little technique. I have found that the kit, as designed is attractive and has been a good seller for me. One characteristic is that the clip does not lend itself to bending or modification. This means that the upper barrel must be turned straight 'B to B' or the clip/wood clearance will not be enough for the fabric on a pocket. In other words, no bulgies on upper barrel. Lower barrel, IMHO, just looks best when turned 'B to B'. I used to mess with it, giving bulgies, comfort grips, etc. but they were not as attractive as just a straight turn. When turning the tenon, I often do that as soon as the corners have been knocked off the blank. It isn't hard to do but is the step where one is most likely to mess up. Might as well have disaster early instead of after a full turning and you are almost done. I do the tenon with a 1/4" parting tool turned on edge. The 1/4" is about perfect for the center band. Takes seconds. After you have done one, you will be an expert. Good luck. Show us your next.
 
I like Frank sell mostly Europeans. I have failed to see what the problem people were having with the tenon until now. At least I am guessing with the problem is. If you turn the upper barrel down to size and then cut the tenon, then you can easily have a size problem. Like Frank said, rough down the blank and then cut the tenon. From there finish turning.

I do disagree with Frank on the necessity of B2B though. I try to follow the line of the nib for the bottom barrel and add a gentle curve to the top. For the upper barrel, I try to follow the line of the end cap. I do agree that if you make the upper barrel too big, the clip becomes a problem. Especially if you are using a special clip like the cross clip. I think there is too much space if you go directly B2B.

I have not turned pens between centers, so I don't know what issues are present with the Euro that are not problems for other pens.
 
Hey Bob;)
Just a couple things I do. I finish the pen BEFORE I cut any tenons and I leave it between centers when I do. Finishing before cutting the tenon gives a crisp transition between wood and metal. Hope this helps, George.[}:)]:D
 
Marc As you can see , a divergence of opinion on when to cut the tenon . Bottom line - whatever works best for you . Rick makes a good point about a crisp transition . I will from now on harden a soft wood with CA before cutting the tenon . Don`t sweat an overturned tenon . One wrap of paper CA`d on will reclaim most wrecks - two if you have been really enthusiastic . Wayne
 
I agree with Rick. If I cut the tenon before I finish sanding I have a tendency to round the edge that butts up against the center band. The last one I did I had to cut the tenon back a bit extra then get the barrel trimmer and shorten the tenon. From now on I will probably cut the tenon most of the way back, but leave a little to cut after I am through with my sanding. That way I get the shape correct and finish with a nice sharp edge for the center band to snug up.
 
Marc,

If you want to turn Euros between centers, buy a set of johnnycnc bushings from thread
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35046
I have a set and the pens I've turned using them have turned out great. I also recommend using calipers to get the sizing of the upper barrel and tenon just right. I cut my tenons after the upper barrel is turned and the final finish is sanded to 400 grit but before I have completed the final polish. This way I get crisp transition but I can still recover from any cutting mishaps.

Wendell
 
Originally posted by fafow

I agree with Rick. If I cut the tenon before I finish sanding I have a tendency to round the edge that butts up against the center band.
Click to expand...

I haven't had the problem. I would say, cut the tenon first and if you round the edge, then shave a little more off. I learned this from Steven Russell.
 
Frank, I have just done it on a PKMONT from PSI- reversed and is waiting for a solution. How can I remove the band without damaging the blank? I have a spare CB.
Thanks
 
Is it glued on? Because the CB shouldn't be so tight that you have to force it on. I always make them just a tad on the loose side and epoxy them on. I'm afraid that if I make them too tight I'll have issues with wood movement and cracking. You could always use a Dremel tool to cut it off.
 
Thanks all... I appreciate all the comments...

I contacted Johnny and ordered the bushings, and I also have bushings coming that work on a mandrel...

Funny how quickly I got hooked on turning between centers... :D
 
I don't turn a tenion on some of my Euro pens. I turn the top blank to the bushing and then use a burn wire to put a couple of rings where the center band goes. I also round the edge just a little during the sanding process. I think it gives it a nice different look. jmo (just my opinion)

Jerry T
 
Originally posted by Stephen

Frank, I have just done it on a PKMONT from PSI- reversed and is waiting for a solution. How can I remove the band without damaging the blank? I have a spare CB.
Thanks
Click to expand...

If it is glued, you now have a shop pen. I suppose you could soak in acetate but then you would have a mess and have to redo the finish.
You now have a shop pen. [:p]
 
Originally posted by rherrell

Is it glued on? Because the CB shouldn't be so tight that you have to force it on. I always make them just a tad on the loose side and epoxy them on. I'm afraid that if I make them too tight I'll have issues with wood movement and cracking. You could always use a Dremel tool to cut it off.
Click to expand...
Thanks Rick, It was glued. Your tip worked fine.Stephen
 
If it is glued, you now have a shop pen. I suppose you could soak in acetate but then you would have a mess and have to redo the finish.
You now have a shop pen. [:p]
[/quote
Thanks Frank,I cut it off as Chris suggested since I had a spare CB
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom