Ebonite and casein

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beck3906

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I know it's been discussed a number of times but thought I would skip the research and just ask. :rolleyes:

I'm making my first pens with black ebonite and casein. What finish do i use on these materials?
 
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No finish at all Rick. Casein is a natural "breathing" entity. A coating, such as CA, Turner's Wood Finish, Shellac (ie shellawax, EEE) and even wax will cause the casein to crack. Some people use Ren Wax or Kiwi natural shoe polish over casein but I don't dare do this. Additionally, a pen mill should NEVER touch casein. Square ends with tubes with a sanding jig. I dip the casein blank in water to keep it cool when squaring ends. Additionally, I turn casein at high speed, with carbide cutters lubricated with Brasso. The carbide and high speed leaves a finish fine enough to start the sanding process at 600 or 1500 grit.
Then Micromesh to a shine.

I handle ebonite much the same way, (NEVER GET IT HOT) except I do use Novus 1, Novus 2, and finally McGuires PlastX after Micromesh "pad 9".

Slow is NOT the idea with either materials, but heat ruins either ebonite or casein. I ALWAYS keep the blank and tool cool as I turn.
 
I agree withy Andy, I use the 2x2 soft touch MM pads and spray the pads with water as I use them keeping the blank and pads wet. You can use the sheets it's just the pads remain wet longer and keep the blanks cool.
 
This may be a learning experience... Costly at that.

Drilled the upper bodies yesterday and felt the ebonite as warm. May finish it to see how it comes out. I can always take it apart and do another body. :redface:

Thanks to both of you for the info.
 
A little "WARM" is ok just don't get it hot. I have even buffed them "LIGHTLY" om my 1750 RPM buffer with tripoli and white diamond just don't get it hot.
 
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