angboy
Member
How are people finishing dymondwood? (A short, sweet and to the point question! 
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Dymondwood?
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Gary Max
Member
Dymondwood is so cool to finish. You almost can get away with no finish. I just use one very thin coat of Thin CA on mine.
Then I run it through the Micro mesh sanding steps a light buff with TSW and I am done.
Then I run it through the Micro mesh sanding steps a light buff with TSW and I am done.
wood-of-1kind
Member
Originally used a BLO finish but it 'dulled' the bright colours. I have since switched to the three(3) part BUFF FINISH. The colours now 'shine' like a rainbow.
-Peter-
-Peter-
wayneis
Member
I only buy Dymond Wood from River Ridge because they special order it and their's is more dense because it has more plastic in it. I used to use ca finish on mine but ever sense I tried their blanks I have used no finish at all. I sand to 12,000 with micro mesh and then buff with white dymond and the blanks end up looking like I used ca on them they are so shiney.
Wayne
Wayne
jdavis
Member
We wax them
Fangar
Member
I don't know about the finishing of it yet, but I have dymond wood falling out of my underpants... Ok not really, but I have a huge pile of it. Not sure what to do with it yet...
Each piece is approx 3" wide by 5 feet long.
Fangar
Each piece is approx 3" wide by 5 feet long.
Fangar
angboy
Member
Fangar, what'd you do? Go raid the dymondwood mine? []
I bought a big sheet of one color of it a couple of years ago, and I've barely made a dent in using it! My one sheet is probably about the same size as one of your planks, so I wonder if you'll ever run out!
]I bought a big sheet of one color of it a couple of years ago, and I've barely made a dent in using it! My one sheet is probably about the same size as one of your planks, so I wonder if you'll ever run out!
Rudy Vey
Member
Sand to 12000 MM and then Novus or one of the automotive polishes.
No need for anything else over Dymondwood.
No need for anything else over Dymondwood.
Rifleman1776
Member
Fangar said "Ok not really, but I have a huge pile of it. Not sure what to do with it yet...
"
Firewood? IMHO, that would be a good use for it.
"
Firewood? IMHO, that would be a good use for it.
Fangar
Member
I am inclined to agree Frank. It was given to me by my neighbor.
Wanna buy some? [
]Fangar
woodpens
Member
Like I need some more pen blanks...
How much are they? []
How much are they? [
]angboy
Member
I'm getting the impression there are lots of people who don't like dymondwood. Am I right? Personally, since I like the colorful stuff, it's one of my favorites. Granted it's hard to turn and pretty easy to screw up drilling, but I just love the colors it comes in!
Rifleman1776
Member
Yer right. Lotsa people don't like it. Actually, it is looking for an excuse to get screwed up at all stages of working.
Fangar
Member
Originally posted by woodpens
<br />Like I need some more pen blanks...
How much are they? [
LOL... haven't really thought about it. Still trying to figure how to cut it up. I might do some sort of angle cuts, to make them looks a little different when done. The boards are not quite 3/4", but I think they are close.
Fangar
wood-of-1kind
Member
Look at the price per blank that i$ reque$ted for the Dymondwood? Heck the retailer (seller) sure like$$$ that. They ain't cheap that'$ for $ure.
-Peter-
-Peter-
Fangar
Member
What price is it?
Rudy Vey
Member
Dymondwood is next to BOW my bestselling wood for slimlines. Well, it is sometimes problematic to drill and tough to turn, but people in my area seem to like it quite a bit. I only can second Wayne's opinion on RiverRidgeProduct Dymondwood.
Geo in Winnipeg
Member
I've only had one problem with Dymondwood and it was my fault. I was too aggresive with drilling and the blank cracked. I now clear chips more often and spray water on the drill. I sand through the MM grits and use Novus plastic polish. I also second Wayne's opinion on River Ridge as well - good quality and service.
Rudy Vey
Member
One tip for drilling Dymondwood has helped me quite a lot and since I use this, I never cracked a blank while drilling:
use you shop vacs nozzle very close to the drillbit, it sucks away all the chips and will cool the whole procedure very much due to the moving air.
use you shop vacs nozzle very close to the drillbit, it sucks away all the chips and will cool the whole procedure very much due to the moving air.
wayneis
Member
I agree with Rudy on the Vacume, in fact I use my vacume on every blank that I drill. It pulls the chips up and out of the blank. I also slide the vacume hose over the bit while it is running to cool it down. Depending on the blank, I also squirt water inside the hole of the blank to cool the blank down. For those of you that like the fancy colors, there really is a big difference in quality from different companies who sell Dymondwood. No I have no financial interest in River Ridge, sure wish I did though, great people to work with.
Wayne
Wayne
Wayne
Wayne
Spike
Member
dyamond wood can be a pain. I made my 2nd pen out of it. I cracked the second blank i was drilling. I switched from brad point bits to a standard drill bit and havent had a problem since. shoot the second dyamond wood pen I made for my dad for fathers day got washed in the washer and it held up and it still writes to this day. finished with Deft.(i didnt even replace the refil!)( it is on page 5 of my main photo gallery)
TomServo
Member
I just sand with MM, use hut lite and white ppp on it to polish, then hit it with some BLO - the results speak for themselves...
johnkepka
Member
Since I was and am making some dymondwood sets "olympic" pattern I did quite a bit of experimentation with finish.
I did not like the finish using Novus.
I did not like wet sanding.
Deft worked well but takes long time to dry.
Tried wipe on polyurethane-satisfactory but long to dry.
Better was a CA finish with dry micro mesh to 12000. Due to the light color wood I found that I need to wipe down with DNA between coats.
Better was CA finish and then Ren wax after completion.
Best I have achieved is CA and then a white diamond buff since I now have a buffing wheel which I did not have previously for the first two sets.
John Kepka
I did not like the finish using Novus.
I did not like wet sanding.
Deft worked well but takes long time to dry.
Tried wipe on polyurethane-satisfactory but long to dry.
Better was a CA finish with dry micro mesh to 12000. Due to the light color wood I found that I need to wipe down with DNA between coats.
Better was CA finish and then Ren wax after completion.
Best I have achieved is CA and then a white diamond buff since I now have a buffing wheel which I did not have previously for the first two sets.
John Kepka
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