Drilling tru-stone

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J

jazziedog

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Joined
Jun 2, 2013
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9
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CT
I was hoping to make some mach3 razors using tru-stone. However I am really struggling with drilling the trustone. I have tried on the drill press and also using the lathe. Any suggestions on how to accomplish this so that I have a usable blank. I should also say that drilling has always been been downfall. If I could buy the trustone blank already drilled, I would be a happy camper. Thank you for any help you can give me.
Joan
 
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You don't really say what the problem is but I would guess that it is cracking when the bit starts to break through the bottom. If that is the case make your blank longer and don't drill all the way through. Stop short and them cut the bottom off.

Mike
 
What speed are you drilling? 500rpms for me. How are you managing the heat? I only drill for 10 seconds at a time, and then let the drill bit cool a little (I count to 10). I also stop the drill occasionally, and check how hot the bit is.

Never drill through the bottom.
 
Also, what size hole are you drilling? If you are trying to drill a large hole, say 10mm or larger, start with a smaller drill bit like 7mm. Once you drill all the way through the blank, then use the larger bit.
I keep a squirt bottle with water in it and will occasionally squirt some water into the hole to keep it from over heating.
Good luck!
 
I always use a center bit first to get a perfectly centered hole and somewhere for the drill bit to follow. Don't use brad point bits. Drill slow. Pull the drill bit our every 1/4" or so to remove dust. If the bit get hot, let it cool down.
 
Drilling Truestone

I have had good luck doing the following. I cut the blank to the overall length needed with a little extra to true up the end. I then superglue on a 3/8-1/2" thick piece of any scrap cutoff I have available on the end of the blank. I drill my blanks on a drill press and take my time with it blowing air onto the drill bit and into the blank as I go to keep everythig from getting too hot. If the drill bit is hot to the touch then it is too hot. I drill down into the glued on section but not through it. When I am done drilling the blank I bandsaw off the sacrificial piece that I glued. This will leave the blank with a hole on each end ready to be trued up. I have never ruined a blank when I follow this procedure.
 
I agree with everything stated above, they are all good points. I would add to that list the following. In some Truestones, the veining is it's weakest point as with any natural mineral found. I will add these steps to the drilling of the blank. Even though it looks solid coat the blank with thin CA. Next I wrap the blank in Duct Tape. This way if your blank does shatter, it will remain together and can be reglued and saved. Also as you finish drilling your holes, coat the inside with thin CA, and run your drill through again to clear any buildup. If you start with a smaller drill, watch your heat build up, and use a slower speed, you should have fewer problems. Jim S
 
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Sharpen and wax your bits.Reducing the grind angle to 118 degrees will make the exiting cleaner.It will do wonders.My drill speed is 680rpm all sizes up to 1/2".No predrilling,just find center and go slowly,clearing frequently.
 
Haven't tried this on Truestone yet but will this week. I found that especially with segmented blanks drilling is the first opportunity to blow it up but....if I glue wooden tongue depressors to all four sides using medium CA and let them set up well the drilling is not a problem. Never ever do I drill all the way through a "plastic" blank. Even if it doesn't break it will crack and then the tool will find the crack and you will be picking up pieces from the floor. At least this has worked for me.
WB
 
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