Drill bit set for pen making

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Jim Smith

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Jul 27, 2008
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I have a large collection of drill bits, but most are not the sizes needed for pen-making. I'm in the market to treat myself to a nice set of quality drill bits and would like recommendations from some of the pen makers here. Thanks in advance for your input.

Jim Smith
 
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KenB259

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Dec 24, 2017
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Michigan
I bought a complete set of Norseman bits, wish I'd done it sooner. I couldn't find Norseman metric bits so I bought a set of Chicago brand of them, Nothing bad to say about either of them. I would stay away from brad points if you plan on drilling segmented blanks, especially if you plan on incorporating metals such as aluminum or brass. Also treat yourself to a set of short stubby center finding bits, I promise you, you will not be sorry.
 

Jim Smith

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I bought a complete set of Norseman bits, wish I'd done it sooner. I couldn't find Norseman metric bits so I bought a set of Chicago brand of them, Nothing bad to say about either of them. I would stay away from brad points if you plan on drilling segmented blanks, especially if you plan on incorporating metals such as aluminum or brass. Also treat yourself to a set of short stubby center finding bits, I promise you, you will not be sorry.
Thank you for your input and recommendations. I will look for the Norseman bits.
 

greenacres2

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May 2, 2017
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Northwest IN
I bought a complete set of Norseman bits, wish I'd done it sooner. I couldn't find Norseman metric bits so I bought a set of Chicago brand of them, Nothing bad to say about either of them. I would stay away from brad points if you plan on drilling segmented blanks, especially if you plan on incorporating metals such as aluminum or brass. Also treat yourself to a set of short stubby center finding bits, I promise you, you will not be sorry.
Pretty much the same for me a few years ago, but bought my metrics in the "Viking" line--step below Norseman, but i sure can't tell the difference. One day I'll upgrade my letter bits, at least the few sizes i use most of the time. Don't be surprised if you get sticker shock when you look at the Norsemans, you'll forget that the first time you use one.
earl
 

leehljp

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Feb 6, 2005
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Tunica, Mississippi,
There are three kinds of "Treats" in drill bits - 1. special bits for special sizes and in the quality of Norseman as mentioned, 2. a set from 1/32nd to 1/2 in 1/32" increments, and 3. the 115 piece sets offered by different companies.
Here is a HF set - their high end cobalt sets: https://www.harborfreight.com/cobalt-drill-bit-set-115-piece-61886.html

The 115 bit sets are generally well appreciated because of how well it gives a small variance up and down from normal sets and that is what sets them apart. Just when you need a smidgen more or less, these bits become a treat to have.

Well there is a fourth set - metrics in .5 mm increments, and I have quite a few of those, but not a set.

AT this point, two more items are needed:
1. Conversion Chart

2. Drill Doctor!
 

EricRN

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May 16, 2019
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I bought a complete set of Norseman bits, wish I'd done it sooner. I couldn't find Norseman metric bits so I bought a set of Chicago brand of them, Nothing bad to say about either of them. I would stay away from brad points if you plan on drilling segmented blanks, especially if you plan on incorporating metals such as aluminum or brass. Also treat yourself to a set of short stubby center finding bits, I promise you, you will not be sorry.
I like the Norseman vortex bits. Work well on acrylic.
 

Aurelius

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Feb 26, 2021
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Pittsburgh, PA
I picked up the 118 pc Norseman black and gold metric set which goes from 1mm to 2.5mm by .05mm, 2.6mm to 10mm by .1, and then it has 10.2, 10.5, 10.8, 11.0, 11.2, 11.5, 12.0, 12.2, 12.5, 12.8, and 13.0mm. It covers almost everything I would ever need except I had to grab an 13.2mm separately to handle m14x.8 caps. They really are worth every penny and being able to go up or down in small increments makes getting super precise fits a breeze.
 

dogcatcher

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Jul 4, 2007
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TX, NM or on the road
I have a 38 piece set of metric bits off of eBay, about $20 a few years ago. As I used them I replaced the ones I used the most with good ones from our hardware store. The 115 bit set from Harbor Freight, again good one slowly replaced the Ines I use regularly.

With a metal lathe and a mill I make a lot of my own tooling/jigs, the odd size drill bit is always needed after closing time. The large sets are time savers. I did the same with tap and die sets. Use the cheap ones until they need replacing. Then buy the better value bit, tapor die.
 

Woodchipper

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Mar 15, 2017
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Cleveland, TN
I have a question about brad point bits. I have one of the 7mm Fisch pen drill bits from Woodcraft. I plan on drilling on the lathe. Anyone see any problems with the long bit as drifting, etc. Alternate source for metric bits?
 

wouldentu2?

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Oak Creek WI
I have a question about brad point bits. I have one of the 7mm Fisch pen drill bits from Woodcraft. I plan on drilling on the lathe. Anyone see any problems with the long bit as drifting, etc. Alternate source for metric bits?
I drill several hundred a year with that 7mm bit and always start with a center bit. Im drilling 1\2" blanks 4 1\2" long and the bit exits without blowing it out due to its rather flat tip. Also it exits right in the center so no wander. I would not try drilling the blank without the center bit.
 

jrista

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Aug 12, 2021
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I have a question about brad point bits. I have one of the 7mm Fisch pen drill bits from Woodcraft. I plan on drilling on the lathe. Anyone see any problems with the long bit as drifting, etc. Alternate source for metric bits?
All of my metric bits are bradpoint. So far, I have not noticed any drift when drilling on the lathe. I have noticed that my holes are slightly angled when drilling on the press...the exit hole is sometimes shifted by half a millimeter to a little over a millimeter. I think it has to do with the angle of my table, and the flatness of my pen blank self-centering vise. I don't think they are entirely flat. I've taken to leveling the vise every time I drill a set of blanks, and I can get it pretty close. But I don't think the issue with exit hole misalignment, when it happens, is so much wander as the angle issue...because, if I drill a set of blanks one after the other, every single exit hole is off by the same amount in the same direction. If it was wander, I'd expect the exit holes to be more randomly distributed...

On the lathe, I seem to get pretty darn strait holes every time...it just takes significantly longer to drill on the lathe. With bradpoint bits, I make sure to give the point some time to make its hole, and make it good, before I let the outer edges of the bit start cutting. Note that, a bradpoint actually cuts at the center and at the edge simultaneously...and for the most part, the point in the center protrudes only slightly more than the points at the edge... Given that, I'm not sure how much wander is truly possible, unless you are really DRIVING the bit in with a lot of force? I tend to keep the pressure light, and let the tool cut and do the work on its own, as much as I can, and I frequently back out to clear the flutes (especially as you get deeper).

Anyway...I actually like bradpoints for some of the more challenging materials. I have more trouble with standard bits on materials like trustone (or its counterparts, as there are a few cheaper alternatives on the market now). Bradpoints, the way they cut at the outer edge, actually seem to exit really nicely and without any chipout, without cracking blanks, like I've seen with standard bits. Trustone is often very fragile and powdery, and I seem to need more force to drill those with a standard bit, and that extra force...it is just higher risk I guess.

I DO use standard bits on wood. I like em, they seem to do an excellent job. I use the cobalt bits I mentioned earlier in the thread, and they cut exceptionally well. In all honesty, I'm not sure if the standard bits drill quite as dead centered as the bradpoints? Even on the lathe, sometimes it seems the hole might be slightly (very slightly...hard to tell) off centered...but, I think its actually more due to how the bit contacts, and how much it flexes on contact, than wander or anything like that. Smaller bits, seem to have more flex (i.e. 3/8").
 
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