Drill bit ?'s

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LandfillLumber

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I'm getting my stuff gathered up to turn a pen and have a drill bit ? for you pros.I see people selling drill bits but I'm confused about "J" or 7mm "X" or 10mm. I have checked the dia. of the different drill bits and see they vary a tiny bit. What is best ? HELP or does it not really matter. Thanks, LandfillLumber
 
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It does not matter - to a degree. You don't want the hole too small (tube won't fit) and you don't want too much of a gap between the tube and blank. I have used I, J, 7mm, and 9/32 for slimlines and other 7mm kits. 25/64 will also work in place of 10mm.
 
Check the Library, there are a couple nice charts there. This is a subject that irritates some people and one in particular. (Doesn't see the need for all the different drill bit sizes.) Harbor Freight has a dill bit set that covers almost all the sizes you will need. It's about $50. Yes you do need to get as close as you can. Even the mega-set from HF will not have some that you will run into. 10.5 or 8.3 (or some cockeyed number). Of course after you buy the bit set, you will eventually be looking at a way to sharpen them. Many like the Drill Doctor.
 
Victor,

It translates to "close enough for government work" [;)] Some people, for example, find the 7mm drill smaller than they like for the slimline kit. The best advice is to PM Rifleman1776. He is the authority here on different drill bits.
 
Here is a link that might help if you are comparing sizes. You want to stay as close to possible with the recommended size. It is sometimes tempting to use a smaller size thinking you get a better fit but it will also force the glue off the tube.

http://www.smithbearing.com/pdf/ENG-FractionalChart.pdf
 
I have catalogs telling me all the different sizes of bits even converts fractions to decimal for me. I just want to know what people like more a "J" or 7mm the extra room or not, the x or the 10mm? Right now I only have slimline and cigar kits so these are the only ones I'll worry about fotr know. Thanks everyong, LandfillLumber
 
Victor,

I usually use a 9/32" bit for slimlines. I use Gorilla Glue if I am not in a hurry and five minute epoxy if I am in a hurry. So far no problems. Happy,[:)] Happy,[:)] Joy,[:D] Joy[:D]!
 
When you want to drill the lower barrel of a Jr. gent or Jr. statesman try a "Z" bit. It works much better than the recommended bit.
 
Originally posted by Woodlvr
<br />The Z bit is not listed on there.

Mike
Click to expand...

Yes it is, I missed it the first time, too.

10mm (0.3937) (--0.0193)
X (0.3970) (--0.0160)
Y (0.4040) (--0.0090)
13/32" (0.4063) (--0.0067)
Z (0.4130) &lt;--- Trying to match this one!
10.5mm (0.4134) (+0.0004)
27/64" (0.4219) (+0.0089)
 
I found "Z" bits at Elliots hardware. I was on the hunt for a 10.5mm bit and checked them out and was shocked and very happy to find any size bit you could imagine! If you can't find one let me know. It may be time for an Elliots run.[:)]
 
I have to part company with some here on the opinion of bit sizes. I do believe size matters. I believe that the closest to the tube size you can get is best. Even though some glues may 'fill' the excess space, you are still working with off-center pieces-parts and alignment of tube, wood and parts. The big HF set is a good investment but you will still find yourself buying some, overpriced, individual weirdo drill bit sizes from suppliers. It's a frustrating fact of penturning life. If that bothers you, get over it. But, good luck, I can't.[:p] I fume every time I have to buy a new weirdo drill bit size. And, also, whenever you buy a new kit style that requires a new weirdo drill bit size [:(!], order by phone and ask if there are any changes in bit size recommendations from what was printed in the catalog. We have found that those changes often do not make it in reprintings of the catalogs for, sometimes, many months, if ever. If you have specific questions as to the best bit sizes for certain kits, do ask here. But, expect a variety of opinions. Confused? [:0]Welcome to the party. [}:)]
 
Victor, for 7mm kits I "usually" use a "J" bit, but have on occasion used an "I". The "I" is a snug fit and works well for those situations where I don't glue the tubes in. And Frank is exactly right. The larger the gap between the tube and blank, the more likely you are to run into a problem. This is particularly true when working with some of the larger thin walled pens. If you have a substantial gap, you run the risk of having the tube settle to the low side while curing (even w/CA), thus leaving a larger space on the opposing side. When turned, the blank can actually wind up having the blank material turned away in one spot leaving just the glue. DAMHIKT

For that reason I now drill on the side of snug.
 
Originally posted by Rifleman1776
<br />... If that bothers you, get over it. But, good luck, I can't.[:p] I fume every time ...
Click to expand...

Yep, I feel your pain! [:(!]
A friendly hardware store owner gave me a discount on the 35.00 bit I needed because he felt sorry for me!
 
I'm lucky to live just outside detroit so I have many tool supply place in the area that have every size they make and at great prices.

Okay one more ? twist,brad bit what is best? Thanks LandfillLumber
 
Originally posted by LandfillLumber
<br />I'm lucky to live just outside detroit so I have many tool supply place in the area that have every size they make and at great prices.

Okay one more ? twist,brad bit what is best? Thanks LandfillLumber
Click to expand...

Yer really looking to stir the pot, ain't ye? [:p]
It's pretty much an individual thing. My preference is brad points. They work well, are easy to sharpen by hand and I can put the point right into the center mark on my blanks, exert slight pressure and turn on power. No wandering off center. Some like the split points. They are very good but some do wander, especially bigger ones and with bigger ones, you have less forgivness with the wood. Some will claim regular twists are best. But we give those guys valium and ignore them.
 
This is where Frank and I differ. I have found that split points wander less than brad points... and they are much easier to sharpen (just stick 'em in my Drill Doctor and I'm good to go. In fact, I have already converted most of my brad points to split points.
 
As far as the size of the bit goes, I measure the tube and try to find a drill bit that's 0.005-0.010" larger, unless I'm going to be painting the inside of the drilled hole - then I go a bit larger. I can't always accomplish that, but I get as close to that as possible. I bought the Harbor Freight giant set over a year ago and it has been worth every penny. I don't often have to buy other bits, unless they're over 1/2". I happen to HATE brad point bits. I've purchased more than one that was completely dull at the beginning. I have a Drill Doctor and convert all my bits to split point. When I buy a new bit, I immediately sharpen it and convert it to split point. This all works for me, but your mileage may vary.[;)]
 
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