Don't know if it's Ignorance or too much Nog in the EggNog

[DrD]

I am having a lot of trouble getting squared away on this point: can one use something like a water-based poly final coating on wood that has been wet sanded with Walnut Oil. There is quite a bit of walnut oil involved as the wood was sanded from 80 grit up through 800 grit (without missing a grit) using a liberal amount of walnut oil with each grit.

Thanks for your assistance.

 

[jttheclockman]

I will take a shot here. What was the purpose of the walnut oil?? Was it to add color?? If so then then just wipe blank with acetone before you top coat??

 

[peter1958]

Hello DrD,

I used oil also for sanding, no dust and a super surface of the wood. But as you write problems with waterbased finish i used but after some time it came off. Oil and water???
Then i ran out of oil when i needed to sand a bowl, so dustcollector installed and dirty clothes afterwards.
The waterbased finish was excellent. Higher gloss then before. So the washer makes overtime now.

Peter

 

[DrD]

I will take a shot here. What was the purpose of the walnut oil?? Was it to add color?? If so then then just wipe blank with acetone before you top coat??

Happy New Year John!

I have found that wet sanding with Walnut Oil, 1) cuts down - eliminates - dust, and 2) results in a superior finish. It might take a day or 2 to get thru all the grits, coupled with overnight resting of finished product. By the time all this has happened, the oil has significantly penetrated the wood. And it really looks good to my eye. And yes, it does slightly darken the wood. There is not any visible or "feelable" oil on the wood surface, so I suspect there won't be much for the acetone to remove. Additionally as I mentioned I really like what the walnut does to the visual appearance of the wood.

I need to find some type of durable final coat for the wood as it will be handled a LOT - these are knife scales.

Thanks for your reply

Don

 

[DrD]

Hello DrD,

I used oil also for sanding, no dust and a super surface of the wood. But as you write problems with waterbased finish i used but after some time it came off. Oil and water???
Then i ran out of oil when i needed to sand a bowl, so dustcollector installed and dirty clothes afterwards.
The waterbased finish was excellent. Higher gloss then before. So the washer makes overtime now.

Peter

Hello Pete and Happy New Year!

Thanks for the reply. I have severe breathing issues as a result of excessive exposure to Beryllium, so I do not tolerate dust at all. I do appreciate your response though.

 

[peter1958]

Hello Pete and Happy New Year!

Thanks for the reply. I have severe breathing issues as a result of excessive exposure to Beryllium, so I do not tolerate dust at all. I do appreciate your response though.

Now i use a mask with a filter, battery powered. That is very good. Try it, i'ld say, Bit expensive but it is perfect.
Also a oil based finish is maybe a better solution for your turnings. You still need a filter mask because of the smell and solvent

 

[maxwell_smart007]

I think any polyurethane finish is likely to flake off over time - so for a knife, I'd think an oil-based penetrating finish is likely best...

 

[DrD]

Peter you are correct re the mask thingy. Can't afford what you describe so I'm methodically work my way thru a case of N95 masks I bought at Woodcraft in Cincinnati years ago.

 

[DrD]

I think any polyurethane finish is likely to flake off over time - so for a knife, I'd think an oil-based penetrating finish is likely best...

Thanks Andrew and Happy New Year,

I think you are correct. I was hoping there may be something to provide a bit more protection from things like pocket carry, etc. I don't really know if there's anything to protect against dings in the wood. Most of my edc pocket knives have tactical - non wood - scales, so I really don't ever notice any dings and such.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[jttheclockman]

Nothing is going to prevent dents in any wood product. I think you have a couple things going on. Because you are using an oil as a lubricant and also as a dust prohibitor you have to stick with an oil based product if you really want to top coat. Now knifes have been around a long time and they do not usually get finished. They gain a patina as they get used and the feel of wood is always there. Now they can be reoiled as in your case with walnut oil again.

Now most knife builders use True Oil as a finish but it is a process and again can not be used as you do. It takes a long time to properly cure. If interested google True Oil and read their product properties.

To me, If you are looking for an oil with protection than Danish oil is the answer. It has poly in it in small amounts so it will give a nice wood feel and sheen. Not sure if the product you are using has a poly in it. Unlike adding poly on top of a surface it blends in the wood. You can sand with it as you are doing. I use it all the time on my scrollsaw projects. Maybe worth a try to experiment with it.

 

[DrD]

Thanks John

 

[Bope]

For general woodworking you can usually use dewaxed shellac over oil then water based clear.

 

[McKenzie Penworks]

Bope nailed it... You need a barrier coat. When I used to make drums I often put down a couple of coats of my favorite modified tung oil for color then used a water based urethane sprayed as a final finish. The trick to making that work was the Zinnser Sealcoat I put down on top of the fully cured oil. That's the magic ingredient to having water based finishes on top of oil

 

[DrD]

Thanks Eric! Thanks Tim!