DNA

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Oily woods. [}:)][:p] Sorry, couldn't resist. But seriously, like Ruth, I haven't really had the need to. Yes, I know that some WW shows and mags will tell you it's best to use DNA to remove the oil in woods like Teak if you want a successful glue joint, but do our products really have the same kinds of forces applied to them as outdor furniture (or indoor, for that matter)?
 
Originally posted by alamocdc

Oily woods. [}:)][:p] Sorry, couldn't resist. But seriously, like Ruth, I haven't really had the need to. Yes, I know that some WW shows and mags will tell you it's best to use DNA to remove the oil in woods like Teak if you want a successful glue joint, but do our products really have the same kinds of forces applied to them as outdor furniture (or indoor, for that matter)?
Billy,
I agree for the most part, but don't forget about CA if you use that for your finish. I have found from my past experience, that if I don't use something to remove the oil from oily wood such as coco, BOW etc, I have problems with my CA finish. If I use DNA, I run the risk of water being left from the DNA. I now use acetone on oily wood before my CA finish and it has helped my finish treemendously (misspelling intended).
 
i agree with mannie, i don't like to use DNA but rather acetone or CA accelerator (which basically is acetone with propane and butane added) as it doesn't leave behind any H2O.

as for other woods, lignum vitae, anything in the rosewood family (i.e. cocobolo, kingwood), teak, bow, bocote, ipe, etc... i'm sure others can add more that have caused 'oily' problems.
 
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