Deck maintenance and repair

[monophoto]

When we built our house, he went to a local lumberyard who designed as deck for us, and then hired a contractor to build it following the plans prepared by the lumberyard. We opted to use Trex artificial decking because it was 'low maintenance'

'Low maintenance' isn't the same as 'no maintenance'. So every Spring I have to wash the deck to remove the dirt and mildew that has accumulated since the previous year. I started on my hands and knees with a stiff brush and a mild bleach solution, but I couple of years ago I splurged on a pressure washer that seems to do a better job with less wear on the back.

Part of the problem is that the deck doesn't receive a lot of direct sun (orientation of the house, nearby trees that will must remain because they provide privacy, etc), but another part is that the builder who constructed the deck failed to leave enough spacing between the boards - he just jammed them tight together. Obviously, he never watched Norm Abram and Tom Silva on This Old House - they said to use a 16d nail as a spacer between boards so that rain can drain between the boards rather than accumulate on top where it cause the mildew to grow faster.

I know one solution would be to remove the decking boards, and then reinstall them with the proper spacing. But I'm wondering if simply drilling a weep hole (1/8") where adjacent boards meet would also be acceptable?

 

[Curly]

I think a 1/8" hole is going to plug up pretty quick leaving you on your knees picking holes clean. I might be wrong though.

 

[Kenny Durrant]

Just off the top of my head could you clamp or tack a guide and use a circular saw or router to put a small gap between the boards? Or take every other one off and trim it on a table saw so when put back down you'd have you spacing.

 

[monophoto]

Pete and I have similar worries - I can just see myself on my knees using a length of coathanger wire to clean out the holes.

But Kenny's suggestions are both doable and less likely to clog over time.

 

[jttheclockman]

I agree about weep holes. They always clog no matter where they are used. I would have suggested the circular saw with a carbide blade because that stuff will kill a blade. But the other question you need to ask is how were they fastened? There are many systems out there. If it was one of those hidden systems where it is attached from the sides you may run into them when cutting. If they were nailed or screwed from the top face then no problem. Just do not go too deep to cut into rafters.

 

[Curly]

The one concern I would have about ripping the edge is the outer skin with the colour and woodgrain off, is whether it would ever peel leaving you with another problem?

How about putting a tarp over the deck when not in use to keep it clean.

 

[Scotty]

Pulling them up and re-installing them with a space between is the only real permanent solution without damage to the boards.

 

[Woodchipper]

I agree with Scotty. Builder should have used a spacer to separate the boards. Our old deck had about 1/4 inch spacing.
We are looking at a new deck this year. Dread the cost. WOOD magazine had comparisons of different materials for decking. Synthetic decking got low marks due to being hot as compared to wood.

 

[maxwell_smart007]

I trust Tom Silva....make sure to use your hammer sideways when you do it!

 

[grpass]

There are lots of commercial mildew cleaners on the market. Makes cleaning easier even with the pressure washer.

 

[egnald]

A friend of mine had to re-do his entire Trex deck a couple of years ago. Unfortunately when it was built the contractor did not use the "Trex Protect" flashing to protect the wooden under structure. In our climate the framework under the Trex rotted away after about 15 years. I'm guessing that there isn't a good fix-ya procedure short of removing and re-installing. - Dave

 

[Painfullyslow]

The one concern I would have about ripping the edge is the outer skin with the colour and woodgrain off, is whether it would ever peel leaving you with another problem?

How about putting a tarp over the deck when not in use to keep it clean.

Trex is colorfast throughout the entire board. I have built several decks with it.


To the OP: although far from an expert I would think that ripping a small gap would likely be your best bet. Depending on the length of the deck you may even get away with clamping a 2x4x16' as a rip guide. If you set the cut depth correctly you may not even need to remove the planks.

 

[rixstix]

A friend of mine had to re-do his entire Trex deck a couple of years ago. Unfortunately when it was built the contractor did not use the "Trex Protect" flashing to protect the wooden under structure. In our climate the framework under the Trex rotted away after about 15 years. I'm guessing that there isn't a good fix-ya procedure short of removing and re-installing. - Dave

Rolls of window flashing is an alternative if you cannot find the TrexProtect. Sometimes at a significantly less expense. We had several decks with the same issue of rotted framework due to unprotected joists.

 

[Scotty]

Trex is colorfast throughout the entire board. I have built several decks with it.


To the OP: although far from an expert I would think that ripping a small gap would likely be your best bet. Depending on the length of the deck you may even get away with clamping a 2x4x16' as a rip guide. If you set the cut depth correctly you may not even need to remove the planks.

I've never seen a 2x4x16' straight enough to use as a rip fence. I wouldn't take a chance on messing it up. I'd still remove them and reinstall with a gap.