cutting burl caps

[tone]

Just got me a G0555 (Will set it up tomorrow) and want to cut some burl caps into slabs. A burl supplier has told me that it is extremely dangerous to stand a cap flat against the fence to try to cut slabs leaving a natural edge all the way around. The piece tends to get yanked around and can pull ones hands into the blade etc.

To those who do this, what is the best (safest) way to do this and which is the best blade for the job?

I don't mind going slow with smaller teeth since I won't be doing all that many pieces.

Thanks,

Tony

 

[chitswood]

I've cut a lot of a lot of burl caps standing on their natural edges - small to some that wieghed over 50 pounds, here's some advice: (sorry that I can't give more specific information)

Find the flatest or most stable edge of the bark, find a VERY good place on the burl that will let you get a powerful grip, go slow, make sure your bandsaw blade is very sharp, you don't want to be using one with broken teeth.

I don't know the size of your burl caps, but here is something to consider:
The fence of my bansaw has a sturdy, straight slab of wood on it, with the width of the slab about 4" to 5" inches. This means there is more surface to press the burl cap face against.

Be careful! The bandsaw has to pass through the wood so fast and clean, that the pressure of the burl cap against fence has to overcome the drag from the cut, if the drag becomes stronger than your grip, it will yank the burl down and possibly out of your hand.

The hardest part of cutting the burl will be at the point that the bandsaw first meets the burl, and just before you finish cutting through the cap, the mid point of the burl cap is fairly easy.

Strong unwavering pressure on the fence, sharp blade, let the burl sit on its flatest edge.


Cutting burl caps reminds me of lifting 500 pound logs into the truck with my brothers and Dad: you can put all of your weight on the log to stop it from falling, or you can jump back to a safe distance, when you spend enough time lifting them, you'll first lose the fear of them falling on you, and next you'll get good enough to lift them the first time without a problem. If you think you're losing control of your burl cap, you have to forget about jumping back and instead put all your weight on it, or your not going to get your work done.

 

[tone]

Thanks Darick,
I'll be cutting caps with a max diameter of about 8" and 3-4" at the thickest point. I tried once to slice a small whole briar burl on a 12" miter saw. Lets just say I won't try that again.

Which blade would you suggest for the bandsaw?

 

[BigRob777]

I'm thinking that if you want to do this, you should do it on a thickness planer slowly. Once you get some flat on both sides, which are parallel, you can sandwich them between two thick pieces of wood, but you're better off screwing one side, if you can avoid it with the blade.

I got the GO513 (17") and use a carbide blade. I'd think that at least 4 TPI would be best. I almost lost my hand last month, even though the band saw is one of the safest machines in my shop. Double stick tape (carpet tape) on the cap and bolts through the wood, in front and behind the cap to keep it tight, but not too tight, might work.

No matter how you do it, you're taking a chance. I, personally, wouldn't do it. Your machine is much less dangerous than mine, but you're still risking much. You could also glue blocks at the edges, to keep the cap from twisting some, but you may still snap your blade. At $150.00 per blade, that'd kill me, but the half inch blade that comes with your saw is cheap to replace. If you do it, please take your time and stop at the first catch. Also, get used to your machine first.

Good luck,
Rob

 

[dbriski]

No real experience with this (still fairly new to the bandsaw) but would it work if you made a small square box a little bigger then the bottom of the burl. Cover the Burl in plastic wrap (and your box). Then use the Expanding insulation foam to fill up the bottom of the box with the foam and the put the burl in and make a perfect form with a flat bottom. release it from the box and then it has a flat bottom surface to register against the bandsaw table. Or would the forces just destroy the foam?

Food for thought.

 

[jaywood1207]

I haven't cut burl before but did cut up some odd shaped firewood once and will never do it again. It caught and sent it flying in the air and wrecked my blade. I now only cut with a good solid flat surface down. Since you mention you are new to the bandsaw I would practice a ton first.

If you do decide to pursue this wear brown pants just in case you do get a catch.[] It'll be a little less humiliating.

 

[byounghusband]

Tone,
Gotta love the G-0555. I got one on Friday too. You might consider a Timberwolf 3/8" 3tpi AS blade fot this... I spoke with Suffolk Industries last week and ordered one of those, plus a couple of 6tpi raker blades for general stuff.... They are having a deal where if you order 5 blades, you get 20% off the order one time only until 12/31.... Kinda like getting a blade for free!!

Others have given you better advise on cutting these up than I can.

Be <b>CAREFUL!!!</b>

Please post pics of what you cut up!![]

 

[terrymiller]

Tone while I have not cut a lot of Burl caps when I have cut irregular shaped wood that would not set flat I used a backer board glued or screwed to the wood. This wood rode against the fence and gave more support to the odd shaped wood. In this situation I would stand the Burl cap on end as others have said with the flatest spot down and attach the backer board. By doing this it will allow you to have a truly flat surface to ride against the fence and it will provide some resistance to the downward force produced by the blade as Darrick mentioned.

 

[loglugger]

Terry gave you good advice about screwing it to a longer board. with the bottom of the board riding on the saw table.
Bob