devowoodworking
Member
Hi everyone, I thought I'd post my set-up for cutting blanks as I noticed numerous posts in the past about the various tools and methods used:
Keep in mind safety should always be top priority! Never do anything you're not comfortable with, PLEASE!!
I use a compound mitre saw, it's a 12" Dewalt with a Forrest 'Chopmaster' and gives me smooth, accurate cuts, I use it for my puzzlemaking as well so I routinely need to dial it in to within thousand's of an inch.
The first thing I did was make a 'Zero clearance throat insert', not all that difficult, simply remove your existing plastic one and use it as a pattern for one with the exact thickness you need.
The next most important step is making sub-fences, the first one gets attached to the original fence that is part of your saw, with a 'T Track' slot installed in a groove for adjustability of the next sub fences wich again have the same 'T track' slot for a Stop block. I attached a pic, I hope this was helpful, if you need more pics or info, don't hessitate to contact me and again please work safe
Keep in mind safety should always be top priority! Never do anything you're not comfortable with, PLEASE!!
I use a compound mitre saw, it's a 12" Dewalt with a Forrest 'Chopmaster' and gives me smooth, accurate cuts, I use it for my puzzlemaking as well so I routinely need to dial it in to within thousand's of an inch.
The first thing I did was make a 'Zero clearance throat insert', not all that difficult, simply remove your existing plastic one and use it as a pattern for one with the exact thickness you need.
The next most important step is making sub-fences, the first one gets attached to the original fence that is part of your saw, with a 'T Track' slot installed in a groove for adjustability of the next sub fences wich again have the same 'T track' slot for a Stop block. I attached a pic, I hope this was helpful, if you need more pics or info, don't hessitate to contact me and again please work safe