Corian Help!

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MurphysPenWorks

MurphysPenWorks

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Feb 17, 2010
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Oklahoma
Anyone have any suggestions for turning corian and other acrylic solid surface material? I work as a kitchen designer at Lowe's and have ended up with a lot (24x24x24 box full) of solid surface samples and scraps that I want to start using but i'm a little apprehensive about just kicking on the table saw and lathe and going for it. I figure CA and lots of clamps for turning 1/2" thick stock into 1" thick, but what about cutting it to size and turning?
 
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Corian should cut and turn fine with your normal tools although it may dull them a bit quicker. I'd be cautious of some of the other materials (e.g. there's some quartz composite stuff that could be problematic), however.

-Barry
 
I did the same for Lowe's a few years back. CA will work but you may see the seam. I use carbide tipped turning tools and saw blades. I got some corian adhesive from a countertop making shop after I made them a few corian pens. Got lots of scraps too.
 
MurphysPenWorks said:
Anyone have any suggestions for turning corian and other acrylic solid surface material? I work as a kitchen designer at Lowe's and have ended up with a lot (24x24x24 box full) of solid surface samples and scraps that I want to start using but i'm a little apprehensive about just kicking on the table saw and lathe and going for it. I figure CA and lots of clamps for turning 1/2" thick stock into 1" thick, but what about cutting it to size and turning?
Click to expand...

Just S of ya
I turn it all the time have been looking where to buy at times. It will turn great if you glue try to mix the colors that go together you well be amazed at what you get and the seam if any will not matter
 
I have found that different colors of Corian and other solid surface material actually turn differently. Some are easier than others, but they will all dull your tools faster than typical wood. If you have an accurate way to drill the blanks, you can actually use a 1/2" piece for a slimline. Otherwise, you can just glue up the pieces, but a full 1" is a lot to turn. Also, I have simply used medium CA, and the glue line is generally less visible on patterned pieces. You are more likely to see the line on solid colors.

It does polish up nicely!
 
Just glue, drill and go for it! Nuthin ta lose but time.
 

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I glue it with CA, but I do clamp it and leave it overnight. The seam is not visible. Alice "Elody 21" makes bowls and many other things out of Corian. You might want to look at some of her pictures or check out her threads.
 
Something really neat to do with the 1/2" pieces is to glue 2 different colors together. 2 pieces of each color in an alternating pattern. Then segment the blank and rotate the pieces so that you get a "spiral" pattern in the corian.

Corian is really nice to work with. I cut EVERYTHING on a metal lathe, so I'm not sure about tool dulling, all of my inserts are carbide. Corian polishes really nicely, and does not need a finish. It feels GREAT in your hand!

Happy Turning,

Chad
 
I use starbond em02,super fast......clamp together, lightly,snug, let seep through and dry, turn over , do same, I use spring clamps, and bar clamps if large, let set , normally over night.......been doing this way for about ten years.....put on top box can through away. shortly after drying take off box, easier instead let staying on box, easier than laminating wood with titebond.............
 
corian

I agree with with solid light colors showing seams. The rest glue up pretty nice. I made these early on in my pen making days.
 

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I have turned many Corian Pens. As a matter of fact, I turn Corian 8 times more ofter than I do wood. You can glue two pieces of Corian together with no problem, as long as you make sure you use medium or thick CA. When trying to glue two 1/2 inch together be sure that you glue the two smooth sides together. Use 400 grit sand paper to slightly rough both of the smooth sides of the Corian so the CA glue will bond well. I use clamps during the gluing process. I only wait about 30 minutes after gluing the Corian together to start turning the glued pieces. I have yet to have a seam show. After turning, sand the Corian down to 600 grit, then swap over to micro mesh sand paper and wet sand. I used to sand all the way down to 12,000 grit, but now only sand down to 4800 grit and then use 2 coats of plastic polish. The pen will shine like glass. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.
 
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Corian is pretty easy to work. I prefer to glue it up with Monty's 5 minute epoxy. Good CA works ok, but I tend to cut it, drill it and lathe it at fast speeds. The epoxy is a little more forgiving to heat and high speed than CA.

Just an opinion.
 
Andre,
If you're interested we could get together sometime. We would have to fit it in between Michigan and OU games of course. I would also love to get a little white or dark corian if you have extra. The cool thing about corian is that it's cheap (or free) and if it doesn't work just turn the corian down to tube and start over. Oh yeah, my father in law is on a tight budget and I recently got him hooked on making pens. I imagine he would cut some down to pen blanks in return for some corian. He's also in Midwest City.
Thanks,
Jeff White (MWC)
 
Alright, so here's another Corian tid-bit for you...

I just found out the hard way that white or light colored Corian must have the tubes painted white underneath. Otherwise, the Brass can show through, and it almost makes the Corian look dirty at the edges.

I also found that while Corian can be turned UBER thin around a tube, it's not a good idea. It will EASILY crack when pressing the pen parts together. It's a great material to use, but you have to use it in the right places....
 
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