Contact cement???????

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I have used contact cement in the past for non structural projects.
Has anyone tried this for pen blank laminations?
I am guessing the CA glue and the tube will give it more strength,
Just one of those ideas I was wondering about.
 
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I have used Titebond II and epoxy. Of course, Titebond is not very good for end grain, so when there is end grain involved, I use epoxy. When clamping too much pressure squeezes out most of the glue, so I don't overdo the clamping.
 
I normally use CA for staggered laminations.I don't worry about end grain as long as it is a tight joint.
Spray one piece with accelerator and the other gets the glue.
I was jsut thinking the "instant" bond of contact cement would stop pieces from sliding around so much.
 
I use a gap filling CA glue for my glue-ups and haven't had a problem as of yet . I use this type of glue because it give me a little more time to get everything right and also fills the gaps if everything doesn't match up perfectly .
 
I wouldn't use contact cement for lamination work. Contact cement is just a layer of rubber that bonds together. If it gets warm it will creep. If you use anything like lacquer for finishing it will soften the contact cement and the joint will fail. Contact cement also doesn't like solid wood that much. The solvent wicks into the wood and usually requires a second coat to work right. I suggest you leave that stuff to the Formica guys. They get most of their strength from the large contact area, not the strength of the adhesive.

I once did a job for a federal prison when I was in the custom woodworking business. They required the formica to be adhered with yellow glue for 3 inches around the edges and contact cement in the center. Seems the inmates could work the laminate off the edges if contact cement was used all over and use the laminate for weapons. They couldn't do that if yellow glue was used around the edges.

Rich
 
Thanks for the replies,I hadn't thought of lacquer thinner dissolving the cement.
Ca it is I guess.
 
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