colorful Barons...

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
See more from YoYoSpin

Status
Not open for further replies.
YoYoSpin

YoYoSpin

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2004
Messages
1,334
Location
Colorado Springs, Colorado, USA
These are all dyed and stabilized Box Elder burls with Baron kits. Next to the Cigar kit, the Baron has become my favorite.
9a.jpg
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Ed, your work always amazes me, you make wood look so good it appears to be glass. Fantastic work and I love them all!
 
Thanks...all of my wood pens are dry sanded from 120 to 600 grit, followed by one coat of sanding sealer, a robust Beall buff (Tripoli and White Diamond wheels only). Then I apply a coat of Renaissance or Lou’s TSW wax, wait 30 seconds and buff it off using the third (clean) Beall wheel, wait another 15 minutes and repeat the wax/buff process...and you're done.
 
No problem. BTW, its best to leave the finished blanks on the mandrel while your buffing...gives you something to hang onto. And, I use two mandrel setups...that way, one is on the lathe and the other is in buffing queue.
 
Great looking pens. I have fun looking at your work. When I saw your name and Baron I was half expecting some wild coves, beads, or O-rings. You made me look for sure. I was wondering if you could pull it off with this kit. Do you have any mild or wild experiments?

BTW, how well does your finish hold up? Do you use that for all you pens or only the stabilized ones?
 
Haven't figured out how to put anything really dramatic, shape-wise, onto a Baron...but I will work on it.

Here's my personal experience scale on various finish techniques (just MHO)...on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being best in terms of shine and durability, and where a = easy, b = moderate, and c = difficult to apply/achieve:

- CA finish = 10c
- The one described above = 7a
- Friction Polish= 1a
- Normal Beall buff (with Carnauba wax) = 3a
- Spray on lacquer = 6b
- Dipped lacquer = 5b

And yes, I've settled in on this finishing process for all my wood pens, stabilized and not.
 
Magnificent, Ed. These continue the tradition of demonstrating a fine understanding of how a pen's lines need to follow the structure and balance. It's great to learn from you.
 
Thanks for the list. I like the CA finish but sometimes I shy away from beads and grooves because it is highly problematic with those features. I think I may have to break out some buffing wheels and put my old lathe to work.

BTW if you look in my album I have a couple of modified barons. More mild than wild. I find that the baron tapers quick enough that I like a little lip or ridge as a grip for my own personal writing preference. I also did an endcap on one in cocobolo that turned out rather well....even though I was forced into doing it becuase I put the trim ring on backward and press fit the thread down through the trim ring and destroyed them.
 
Very fine Ed, great color selection as well. I will secound Ed's finishing process. The first time I read it I tried it. Works fine, ended up rebuffing about 200 barrels.

Ed, one of the things I like most about your posts, When you show a multiple of pens, the photos are excellent. I can allways get a good photo of one pen, but not several. You have mastered that technique as well.
 
Ed,

My wife is getting me the Beall 3 on a wheel system for our anniversay today (I showed her your pictures). Besides reading the directions, do you have any advice on using the Beall system?

Thanks,

Tom
 
Very, very nice, Ed. I've learned a lot just from looking at your pens over the past several months. These again are winners! Thanks, too, for all the tips you share with us.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom