Color-shift Blade Click

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Alchemist

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Used Alumilite Amazing Clear for the blank. Painted the tubes white and the blank inside black.
Five minute epoxy to mate the tube in the blank.
My normal process of sanding to 400 or 600 grit then hit the polishing wheels didn't bring the color out like I wanted.
I placed the blank back on the lathe and restarted sanding from 400 to 12000 grit. Used a coat of Nova 2. After that, I hit it with several layers of CA glue with accelerator in between coats.
Sanded 400 and 600 grit then to the wheels.

What I learned... I will use Alumilite Clear Slow for the quicker setting time.
Will also try using different colors for the tubes.

C and C is welcomed! Thanks for looking!!
 

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Kcimdrib

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Nov 1, 2020
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That is a beautiful Pen well done. The finish is staggering. Not sure I understand the explanation of how you achieved it. But I am not a Resin turner more of a wood man. That's not to say I can't appreciate a job well done.
 

Alchemist

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Aug 13, 2020
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Location
Central Valley, California
That is a beautiful Pen well done. The finish is staggering. Not sure I understand the explanation of how you achieved it. But I am not a Resin turner more of a wood man. That's not to say I can't appreciate a job well done.
My usual pre-finishing is to sand to 400 or 600 grit then buff before applying CA glue. To get the best coloring I used micro mesh then CA glued. I find that 400 and buffing wheels takes me less time and, of course, not as wet before applying CA glue. It's just my technique.
 

magpens

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Feb 2, 2011
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Location
Canada
@Alchemist
Nice work !!
Thanks for sharing details of your finishing process.

What is the significance of the term "Color-shift" in the title that you gave this thread ?
I think that you made the blank yourself, so maybe it refers to something you added ( like pigments ) to the resin.
I'd love to know please.

Also, what do you think of the Blade Kit ?
I know it is from Berea and I have tried a few of them.
But I find the click mechanism sticks up a bit too far for my liking at the top when the refill is retracted ( see, for example, your third picture ...
... just my opinion, of course. . Your thoughts ?

I actually prefer the Berea "Sierra Super" which also uses the same mechanism ( Schmidt SKM-88 ) but in that kit they have "buried" the lower part of the click mechanism in the finial end of the pen.
 

Alchemist

Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2020
Messages
548
Location
Central Valley, California
@Alchemist
Nice work !!
Thanks for sharing details of your finishing process.

What is the significance of the term "Color-shift" in the title that you gave this thread ?
I think that you made the blank yourself, so maybe it refers to something you added ( like pigments ) to the resin.
I'd love to know please.

Also, what do you think of the Blade Kit ?
I know it is from Berea and I have tried a few of them.
But I find the click mechanism sticks up a bit too far for my liking at the top when the refill is retracted ( see, for example, your third picture ...
... just my opinion, of course. . Your thoughts ?

I actually prefer the Berea "Sierra Super" which also uses the same mechanism ( Schmidt SKM-88 ) but in that kit they have "buried" the lower part of the click mechanism in the finial end of the pen.
Color shift is in the mica powder I used making the blank. The pigment changes several colors depending on how the light hits it.
I like the Blade kit a lot!
The blanks take patience to drill because of the length. The mechanism is quiet and people like the feel of it.
I know that some don't like the button sticking out the way it does, but I like it. To me, it gives a visual and tactile feel. I haven't tried the Super Sierra yet.
 
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