cocobolo is amazing

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jimr

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Clarksville, Arkansas.
these are some blanks I got on the classifieds a while back, forgot from who, but they were a great price, 50 for about 0.40 each. Unfortunately most are not large enough for large pens. But the color is outstanding. these pictures don't do them justice. The go from dark red/brown to purple, gold, almost white, yellow and in between. The turn great and finish like glass. I like the chrome/platinum finish also.

200532905555_cocobolo.jpg


20053290581_cocobolo2.jpg
 
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I am embarrassed to admit it but I do use CA, however I cannot get a good glossy, glassy finish just applying CA. Then I used500 or 600 sandpaper very lightly, buff with non-woven steel wool and then buff to the final finish with friction polish.
 
I love the shape you have to the pens. I think the second picture is the best shape yet for that kit!
The wood looks great! You did a really good job on them.
 
Great looking pens Jim, you got some real nice color in those. Just love cocobolo, I'm just putting the finishing touches on 4 more. Your finish looks real good as well.
 
Cocobolo is one of my favorite woods. It is prety obvious if you ever look at my boxes of blanks. Every other blank is Cocobolo. It can be picky about it's finish though due to being oily. A quick swipe with denatured alcohol helps start of in the right direction though. I think you did a fine job with this one.
your comment about CA Finish makes me wonder again, how many turners think a CA finish goes on smooth just by applying the CA to the wood? I have always applied it a thick as I can. then sanded and micro meshed it smooth.
 
Very nice looking! Great finish. I to am a great fan of cocobolo.
Aside from pens I've seen some phenomonal guitar and bass bodies made from cocobolo.
 
Now that's a different idea for the Euro...and I like it! I was turning one today and thought briefly about doing something a bit different with it, but in the end it ended up pretty much like the rest of the Euros I've turned.
 
Daniel, I do just the opposite... I usually put the CA on in 3-4 thin coatings buffing with steel wool between every other coating... I also usually put a coat of cellulose sanding sealer on the wood buffed with 0000 steel wool before that CA.. this is especially helpful on oily woods like cocobolo..
I have found that a couple of thin coats makes it easier to get a smoother finish without a lot of extra sanding... If I did my part right, I can usually do a 0000 steel wool buffing followed by the last 4 grits of MM wet sanded and then some plastic polish to remove any little swirl marks that might or might not be there... then my usual coat of Ren wax..
 
I think you have me mixed up with another "JIM" Lou, I have not done anything in lilac, but I would like to give it a try. I will try to turn anything natural if I can get just enough for a blank. I am still trying to get a piece of rataan vine that doesn't split. It grows like crazy here in the Arkansas woods. Sometimes almost as big as your wrist, but I have not been able to get a section that did not split within a day or so. I have tried sumac and it works good and sometimes has nice graining, a little greenish tint.
 
Originally posted by Old Griz
<br />Daniel, I do just the opposite... I usually put the CA on in 3-4 thin coatings buffing with steel wool between every other coating... I also usually put a coat of cellulose sanding sealer on the wood buffed with 0000 steel wool before that CA.. this is especially helpful on oily woods like cocobolo..
I have found that a couple of thin coats makes it easier to get a smoother finish without a lot of extra sanding... If I did my part right, I can usually do a 0000 steel wool buffing followed by the last 4 grits of MM wet sanded and then some plastic polish to remove any little swirl marks that might or might not be there... then my usual coat of Ren wax..
Click to expand...
Tom, I follow your thinking, hadn't thought of lightly sanding between coats. my method is focused mainly on not sanding through any part of the CA once I've started. It leaves those nasty blemishes if you do that. I'll try this on my next pen. the way I am doing leaves a real thick coat of CA at he bushings. actually leaves a lip that has to be trimmed off before I assemble the pen.
 
Evening Fred - that lathe makes me think I have died and gone to heaven. I hope I have the problem with the speed control handle set screw worked out. Other than that my only problem is getting enough MT#2 stuff since my old sears was #1.
You ever get back through this area? If you do, give me a call. I would enjoy visiting and going for another rolling rock.
 
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