Closed end, segmented,scalloped, mosaiced Rhodium Gent.

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Ruby pen turning

Ruby pen turning

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Jun 28, 2010
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Pineville, Louisiana
Started this one last night late and worked on it most of the day. Great fun making these pens. It is very hard to get these pens to come together perfectly (at least for me) but I think it turned out pretty good. the pen body is Paduk with maple burl, aluminum veneer and the scallops and final are Cocobolo 15 coats CA.
ANY comments welcome good or bad.

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If you could have made the pin inserted in the middle round All three it would have looked like Mickey Mouse. Thats the critique you will get from me.

Other than that thanks for raising the bar.

Phil
 
Just ordered some 'pins' yesterday, wished I had seen the big pin you used before the order.


Do you drill through the pin, or drill the hole in the blank, drill the blank for the tube and then press the pin in?






Very nice segmenting lines....I like this:good:









Scott (to get it centered....) B
 
Brian,

You've taken these pens well beyond anything I could have done! I think you've done an amazing job with both the concept and completion of these pens. Then again, you've been doing amazing work with segmenting and scalloping for quite a long time now. I love that you've taken ownership of the concept and ran with it in your own direction. Again...well beyond my initial concept!!! Awesome

Just one question regarding materials...I know brass and aluminum are soft enough to spin off with our tools, but how about the mosaic rods with stainless steel rods...? Also wondering how hard this is on our tools? Time will tell
 
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SDB777 said:
Just ordered some 'pins' yesterday, wished I had seen the big pin you used before the order.


Do you drill through the pin, or drill the hole in the blank, drill the blank for the tube and then press the pin in?






Very nice segmenting lines....I like this:good:









Scott (to get it centered....) B
Click to expand...
I drill the holes through the blank while it is still square. I only drill half way through the blank for each pin. Then I round the blank and put it in my collet chuck drill for the tubes, then insert the tubes, then insert the pins.
I made these pins. Just go to the hobby store and get a few different sizes and some 30 minute epoxy.
 
wiset1 said:
Brian,

You've taken these pens well beyond anything I could have done! I think you've done an amazing job with both the concept and completion of these pens. Then again, you've been doing amazing work with segmenting and scalloping for quite a long time now. I love that you've taken ownership of the concept and ran with it in your own direction. Again...well beyond my initial concept!!! Awesome

Just one question regarding materials...I know brass and aluminum are soft enough to spin off with our tools, but how about the mosaic rods with stainless steel rods...? Also wondering how hard this is on our tools? Time will tell
Click to expand...
Tim I have seen your work and I know you could do this with a far cleaner look then what I get.
I personally dont think we can do this with stainless. I think it is to hard and would be difficult to cut with soft wood or resin around it. I think it would be like trying to cut through a little stone embedded in there. The aluminum bands I have on this one seamed to resist being cut.
 
Wow, that's a lot of skills in one pen--a tour de force!! I've tried just about all of those techniques, so I appreciate the craftsmanship.

All that being said, it's a beautiful result.
 
Ruby pen turning said:
wiset1 said:
Brian,

You've taken these pens well beyond anything I could have done! I think you've done an amazing job with both the concept and completion of these pens. Then again, you've been doing amazing work with segmenting and scalloping for quite a long time now. I love that you've taken ownership of the concept and ran with it in your own direction. Again...well beyond my initial concept!!! Awesome

Just one question regarding materials...I know brass and aluminum are soft enough to spin off with our tools, but how about the mosaic rods with stainless steel rods...? Also wondering how hard this is on our tools? Time will tell
Click to expand...
Tim I have seen your work and I know you could do this with a far cleaner look then what I get.
I personally dont think we can do this with stainless. I think it is to hard and would be difficult to cut with soft wood or resin around it. I think it would be like trying to cut through a little stone embedded in there. The aluminum bands I have on this one seamed to resist being cut.
Click to expand...

Brian,

I think the only thing that makes my segmenting/scalloping clean is the thicker stock of aluminum. This pretty much keeps the form unlike the thin aluminum I used in the past that would catch on the tools and tend to bend between the wood. So..not really me, just the materials:biggrin:

I thought the same thing about the Stainless steel rods. I see a lot of these mosaic rods on knife sites, but they have the copper, aluminum, and steel in them for the different look. I knew Brass and aluminum would be fine, just wasn't sure if you tried the stainless. It's what I figured so I'll stick to the brass/aluminum mix.

Love your work!!!!
 
wiset1 said:
I knew Brass and aluminum would be fine, just wasn't sure if you tried the stainless. It's what I figured so I'll stick to the brass/aluminum mix.
Click to expand...

Has anyone tried "German Silver" rather than aluminum? It should be about as soft and look good too.

As soon as I can get a pen to come off the Lathe in only one piece I will start trying to segment and scallop I have a couple of ideas that I think would be great.....if I could only get them not to explode.
 
Brian,

You've inspired me to try some of my own. After trying it myself, I can certainly appreciate your results much more now. What kind of aluminum, how thick was it? I'm using the aluminum from Home Depot that is used for roof flashing. Seems soft enough to cut. I hesitate to use thicker stronger aluminum for fear that it won't cut with my tools. Or catch and break into pieces. The angle on the scallops seem to matter as well. It's my experience that 60 degrees is more difficult to turn then 45 degrees. Thoughts?

Did you cut the blank down to almost the final size? Or was most of the final shaping done by sanding?

Regards,

Joel
 

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pctechmgr said:
Brian,

You've inspired me to try some of my own. After trying it myself, I can certainly appreciate your results much more now. What kind of aluminum, how thick was it? I'm using the aluminum from Home Depot that is used for roof flashing. Seems soft enough to cut. I hesitate to use thicker stronger aluminum for fear that it won't cut with my tools. Or catch and break into pieces. The angle on the scallops seem to matter as well. It's my experience that 60 degrees is more difficult to turn then 45 degrees. Thoughts?

Did you cut the blank down to almost the final size? Or was most of the final shaping done by sanding?

Regards,

Joel
Click to expand...

Joel. Glad you gave it a try. Didi it fall apart on you at all?
I used on this pen aluminum that is probable thinner then flashing but not by much. As time said, he uses a thicker aluminum and does not get the tearing and warping that I have.
I turn mine to finished and sand. Also on the ends that have the scallops on them and to keep the tools from catching and getting ripping the scallops off, I glue on a scrap piece of wood. It makes it look like it is going to be a closed end cap but it gets cut off when the barrel is to size. I use a calipers to get the size where the scrap wood is glued on.
 
Ruby pen turning said:
pctechmgr said:
Brian,

You've inspired me to try some of my own. After trying it myself, I can certainly appreciate your results much more now. What kind of aluminum, how thick was it? I'm using the aluminum from Home Depot that is used for roof flashing. Seems soft enough to cut. I hesitate to use thicker stronger aluminum for fear that it won't cut with my tools. Or catch and break into pieces. The angle on the scallops seem to matter as well. It's my experience that 60 degrees is more difficult to turn then 45 degrees. Thoughts?

Did you cut the blank down to almost the final size? Or was most of the final shaping done by sanding?

Regards,

Joel
Click to expand...

Joel. Glad you gave it a try. Didi it fall apart on you at all?
I used on this pen aluminum that is probable thinner then flashing but not by much. As (Tim) said, he uses a thicker aluminum and does not get the tearing and warping that I have.
I turn mine to finished and sand. Also on the ends that have the scallops on them and to keep the tools from catching and getting ripping the scallops off, I glue on a scrap piece of wood. It makes it look like it is going to be a closed end cap but it gets cut off when the barrel is to size. I use a calipers to get the size where the scrap wood is glued on.
Click to expand...

When I wrote the Scalloping tutorial I didn't note the thickness of the aluminum I used because I figured people would use whatever they had. When I was in Germany I bought a sheet that said 0,5mm on it, but this looks to be the same as the .025 that I bought at Lowes. I've used as thick as 1/8th inch in my most recent pen, but that's a different story and design. The .025 thick sheets should be more than enough and if you use a heavy wood, acrylic, or Tru-Stone the aluminum will keep shape. Use a spalted or soft wood/material and you run the risk of a bend in the accent material. Hope that helps:biggrin:
 
Great job on the pen. That's definitely one to be proud of! I think anyone who works with paduak deserves a metal. I hate that wood.
Thaks for sharing it. I hope to get to do a scallop one of these days.
 
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