Cleaning wooden blanks before finishing

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Dario

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For some time now, I've always read DNA as the choice for cleaning wooden blanks before finishing. To some degree I had luck with it but I encountered so much more problems with ghosting/cloudy finish that it wasn't worth my time using it anymore.

I finally tried something else that worked great so far...CA Accelerator!!!. I just run the lathe as slow speed, put a small piece of paper towel to the blank and give it a spritz.

So far all the pens I used it on came out great!

To those who want to give this a try, good luck!!! As always YMMV (your mileage may vary) ;)
 
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BTW, another cheaper material that I think will work as well is ACETONE. Their fast drying properties makes them better choice than DNA...BUT...please provide for proper ventilation if you choose to use acetone.
 
Chris, not sure about that.

Robert, Denatured alcohol has too much water. It will take much longer to dry which may cause ghosting. The water may also raise the wood grain. I won't use it.
 
Dario:

I misread your post. I throughly wipe the blanks with the lathe running. I don't clean them with a solvent.

I use the denatured alcohol to degrease the tubes and the inside of the blank.

Bonefish
 
I wipe mine down with DNA and have had no problems to date. And I could easily be the poster child for the necessity of patience!
 
Originally posted by chigdon
<br />A fulltime woodworker was recently telling me that DNA is actually worse for you than Acetone. I have no idea, does anyone else?
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DNA in its non-denatured form certainly causes more injuries, deaths, breakups, hookups, births, and defects than acetone.

Until I encounter problems with DNA, I will continue to use it.

BTW, DNA is ethanol, not rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol
 
I did a little research on CA Accelerator and what its made of. All I found is that there is some kind of alcohol in it. Its like it's a secret recipe or something lol
 
I do recall a bottle I bought from WC smelled exactly like acetone and brought it back.
It wound up to be over $100.00 a gallon I think.
When doing glue ups I will use alcohol for an accelerant just so I can put the piece down without it sticking to everything.
 
This is what I found, its mumbo jumbo to me though, I also read where someone was using water as an accelerator, go figure....

Specific Gravity
0.79

Vapor Density
&gt; 1

Boiling Point
82.2 ºC (180 ºF)

Flash Point (Method TCC)
12.8 ºC (55 ºF)

Color
Clear / Amber

Viscosity
3 cps

Solvent Base
IPA Alcohol

Shelf Life
12 months in original sealed container when properly stored
 
Originally posted by gerryr
<br />How could something that dissolves CA be used to accelerate it?
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Exactly my question then. The answer given me was that a little alteration to the acetone will cause that (accelerate it). I am not in position to question it so I accepted it [:D]. It works...that's all that matteers to me. [;)]
 
Originally posted by gerryr
<br />How could something that dissolves CA be used to accelerate it?
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THe same way digoxin stops a beating heart and starts a stopped one.
Magic.
Bottom line it does and I doen't ask questions.
BTW you are not the first to ask about this.
Cigarette smoke is also an accelerant.
along with water, ammonia, alcohol, hot breath and just about anything else I have tried.
Acetone softens the CA, once the acetone flashes off, the CA is still there.

CA will not stick to PH that has been fumed with muratic acid, (DAMHIKT)
 
Hmmm. I used to use a mixture of 1 part BLO to 4 mineral spirits to wash everything down, but for the past few years I've been using just mineral spirits to wash down my blanks after sanding. Turn on and let spin for a little while and using a clean cloth to buff and dry.

I had read somewhere that DNA can wash out certain natural colors, specifically purpleheart. I've also read the exact opposite, that DNA can be used to restore or darken purpleheart. Never experimented to find out the answer.
 
After reading this thread I'm feeling a bit niev. I clean my blanks with mineral spirits and let evaporate before using Polyurithane glue on the tubes.
After turning, I rub a little mineral spirits and let evaporate. I do the same will all turnings, all woodworing when I think of it. I thought that was the best way to remove grit & dust. I jsut make sure I don't handle them afterwards. This also reveals things that I choose weather to work on or ignore.
I never imagined that people were using such other chemical means to clean blanks. [8D]
 
I've had cases where DNA doesn't get all the dust out, especially on open grained woods. I've had much better luck with BLO, and when done carefully, will even get rid of bushing dust. DAMHIKT As an added benefit, it helps to highlight or pop the grain pattern. If it matters any, I use a brushed on lacquer finish.

Cheers,
Draken
 
Originally posted by Draken
<br />I've had cases where DNA doesn't get all the dust out, especially on open grained woods. I've had much better luck with BLO, and when done carefully, will even get rid of bushing dust. DAMHIKT As an added benefit, it helps to highlight or pop the grain pattern. If it matters any, I use a brushed on lacquer finish.

Cheers,
Draken
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I use white woods in blanks I make.BLO will turn white wood amber(yellowish) I guess it will alter the natural color of other woods also.If this is the look you want BMG.
I'd rather the wood look as I intended it to.
 
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