Cleaning a chuck?

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Woodchipper

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I have a Supernova 2 chuck showing an accumulation of wood dust in it. To clean it: 1. Disassemble it? 2. Blast with compressed air? 3. Brush off only what I can see?
Thanks.
 
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dogcatcher

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Soak in can of kerosene, then screw the jaws in and out about 6 times. Then swish around to loosen the crud. Soak some more. Screw the jaws in and out about 6 times. Swish around in the kerosene and let air dry. Hit it with compressed air. About 40 years ago I watched a 69 year old machinist clean a chuck this way. It worked for him, so I tried it, it worked for me.
 

Woodchipper

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Soak in can of kerosene, then screw the jaws in and out about 6 times. Then swish around to loosen the crud. Soak some more. Screw the jaws in and out about 6 times. Swish around in the kerosene and let air dry. Hit it with compressed air. About 40 years ago I watched a 69 year old machinist clean a chuck this way. It worked for him, so I tried it, it worked for me.
Thanks. Good idea; kerosene or diesel fuel, basically the same. So you were 4 years old then?
 

monophoto

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Very interesting question. Something we generally don't think about when we are shopping for chucks, but it is an important consideration.

As I understand it, there are basically three ways chucks can be designed - open back, closed but removable back, and closed with a sealed back. And the mechanism itself is very simple - a spiral track that carries the sliders to which the jaws are attached. Turning the key causes the spiral track to rotate, causing the sliders to move in or out.

Chucks with an open back are easily cleaned using compressed air, and if they are especially grungy, soaking them in a solvent. Chucks with a sealed back can't be opened. That's what I have, so I assume that cleaning isn't necessary. I think the theory is that if the back is sealed, dust can't get in, so there's no need to try to get it out. I have removed the sliders and I can't see any evidence of crud even after ten years of use. Getting it reassembled, with the sliders in the proper order, was a bit tricky but not impossible.

If the back can be removed, then it should be possible clean out the interior just as you would clean a chuck with an open back. But I recall reading some instructions from one of the chuck manufacturers on how to disassemble their enclosed chuck with a removable back, and coming away with the clear message that they really didn't recommend attempting to remove the back.
 

jrista

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I've disassembled and cleaned my Nova chucks many times. The first couple of times, I thought I'd made a mistake, but eventually you get the hang of reassembling (its a careful alignment of the worm thread and the gear teeth on each jaw.)

For some reason, my Nova chucks need this kind of cleaning. I've tried a kerosene bath and other forms of solvent. For one, I worry about certain solvents not necessarily entirely leaving the chuck, and potentially contaminating the wood. But, in the case of the Nova chucks, they just seem to get a heck of a lot of CRAP inside of them. This has resulted in some notably tight spots when expanding or contracting the jaws, and it seems no amount of non-disassembly cleaning fully takes care of that. I have had to take and old flathead screwdriver a few times, to scrape off whatever the heck is getting in there (I think its just wood dust, but wow, it gets compressed into this very hard material...maybe its a combination of wood dust and finishes? I don't usually get any finish on my chucks though.)

Anyway. I have some other chucks now, from Record Power IIRC, which I guess are sealed (or better sealed), and so far, I've never needed to even clean them, let alone take them apart to clean them. The nice thing about the Record Power chucks is they are compatible with all the Nova jaws I have. For anything except pens, I usually use the RP chucks.
 

howsitwork

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If you do decide to clean out .PLEASE mark the jaws and relevant slots carefully first ! otherwise it's a whole new ball game you'll be having. suggest use a centre punch and one dot , two dots etc
 

jrista

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If you do decide to clean out .PLEASE mark the jaws and relevant slots carefully first ! otherwise it's a whole new ball game you'll be having. suggest use a centre punch and one dot , two dots etc
The chucks I have are already stamped with numbers, 1-4, for each jaw and their corresponding slot. I'd look for these first, and only mark if you don't find the manufacturer's marks.
 

Joebobber

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Usually I find taking them apart and cleaning them is best. It's not that hard and relatively easy to do as long as you pay attention to the numbers.
 

WriteON

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I like Birchwood Casey's gun scrubber. 2 types. One of them is good on any material... the other dissolves plastic, latex gloves will deteriorate. Be careful where it's use (use outdoors). It gets parts clean. Real clean.
 

Woodchipper

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Thanks. I do have an engraver from HF that I used to mark some things. Gun Scrubber is good but they have changed the chemicals (same with brake cleaner) and doesn't do as good a years past. Thanks to all. Will get ambitious, heat up the shop and go to it!
 
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