Circumference of Pen Tubes

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jttheclockman

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OK I am reaching out to the masses here with hopes of finding that perfect method of measuring for the circumference of our pen tubes so that a label or wrap lays exactly flat on tube and the seam is as tight as possible with no overlay. Now read what my dilemma is before answering. I have material that I want to wrap tubes with but it can not overlap at the seam. With most my materials I have a very tiny overlap because of the thickness of the blade of the knife with the manner that I wrap my tubes. In this case I need to measure the wrap piece before I roll around tube. Normally I would use a piece of masking tape and wrap both ends and then slice tape in half and do that for both ends even though the tube should be same all the way through. then lay the strips of tape to the edge of material and slice with a exacto knife. yes sometime you can get close but not always. Sometimes the way the tape stretches when pulling off the tub is just enough to throw it off. I need a full proof way to do this. How are you doing this if you even bother. I know most people just overlap seam and that is fine if material is thin enough. This material is not. It would stand out like a sore thumb. What say you. Please do not tell me to use a ruler to measure off. Getting exact lines is not happening. Thanks. By the way do not worry about shrinkage of material. It does not shrink. If we get the discussion going I can get into more about my method and why it will not work with this stuff.
 
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d_bondi

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John, I don't do this type of work (yet) so sorry in advance if these are dumb ideas:
1. Practical Method: Wrap the material with small overlap and cut through both layers, perfect seam every time.
2. Math Method: Measure outer diameter of tube with caliper multiply by pi, use micrometer, cut material and wrap.
 

jttheclockman

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John, I don't do this type of work (yet) so sorry in advance if these are dumb ideas:
1. Practical Method: Wrap the material with small overlap and cut through both layers, perfect seam every time.
2. Math Method: Measure outer diameter of tube with caliper multiply by pi, use micrometer, cut material and wrap.
Your first one is the way I do it now with masking tape but it actually does not come out perfect seam. It always overlaps because of the thickness of the material. This is why I can not use that here. The second I want to stay far away from math.:)
 

jrista

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Take a fine gauge piece of wire, wrap it around the tube, and snip it where the ends cross. That ring of wire when stretched out will be your circumference.
 

Kenny Durrant

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John I get what you're wanting. Most times I pay more attention to the seam than I do the image on the label. As you've mentioned there's several factors that affect the outcome. Another factor is when dealing with such tight and precise measurements is when you cut the label on a flat surface the edges are square. When you wrap the tube the square edges become angled. That being the case there's a gap at the top or bottom of the seam. Since your dealing with the bottom distance the gap will be at the surface of the label. I hope I'm explaining my point well enough so you can get what I'm trying to say. There's some projects I do that I have to except as the "Nature of the Beast". The problem with labels is that once they stick they don't move. When I use cloth they're a hair oversized. When I glue them to the tube they're able to move enough so that the seam can squish tougher and disappear. You're not able to do that with paper. At least I haven't been able to get it to work.
 

jttheclockman

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Right now I gave this some thought last night as the fireworks kept me awake till I swear sounded like 2 in the morning. People just do not use their heads any more. Cops do not care either. Anyway I am thinking of using some piece of thin copper plating or aluminum and roll it around the tube until it touches each other and then I mark this with a marker. I then sneak up on the cut ever so slowly and little at a time. Trimming a little off. Then test fitting till I get an exact match. I have one of those mini breaks that both bend and cut metals. The thing is metal will not change form or length when manipulated like this. I can do this for any size tube I use and save the pattern.
 

jttheclockman

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John I get what you're wanting. Most times I pay more attention to the seam than I do the image on the label. As you've mentioned there's several factors that affect the outcome. Another factor is when dealing with such tight and precise measurements is when you cut the label on a flat surface the edges are square. When you wrap the tube the square edges become angled. That being the case there's a gap at the top or bottom of the seam. Since your dealing with the bottom distance the gap will be at the surface of the label. I hope I'm explaining my point well enough so you can get what I'm trying to say. There's some projects I do that I have to except as the "Nature of the Beast". The problem with labels is that once they stick they don't move. When I use cloth they're a hair oversized. When I glue them to the tube they're able to move enough so that the seam can squish tougher and disappear. You're not able to do that with paper. At least I haven't been able to get it to work.
Kenny you are right on and bring up a good point. Yes this happens alot too when doing abalone strip blanks too. Even though the strips are small and the gap is not that bad it still is there. I have a solution for those type blanks that I want to try as well but that is another story. Taking what you said about the angle of the cut, here is what I will need to do. First the thicker the material you are wrapping is the more extreme the angle is seen. I will take a block of sandpaper to sand the edge on an angle ever so slightly before I adhere to tube. No matter what I do you will see the seam and that is OK. You will always see seams under clear resin which gets amplified anyway. But I can not overlap because of the thickness of material. So I need to get a clean close as I can get seam. I will paint the tube where the seam hits before hand to avoid having brass show through. Going have to play with this. I put off doing this for some time now but just want to give it a try before I switch my project line from pens to boxes.
 

hooked

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If you take a look at ptownsubbie, they list the sizes for label casting for many pen models. They also sell jigs for sizing, but with exact dimensions it may help you create your jig.

 

jttheclockman

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If you take a look at ptownsubbie, they list the sizes for label casting for many pen models. They also sell jigs for sizing, but with exact dimensions it may help you create your jig.

Mark you probably saved me some trial and error time with jigs. I will be placing an order and get various items. he does nice work and I always liked his abalone blanks. Reasonable priced jigs. Thanks. I can work with that.
 

Sylvanite

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Your first one is the way I do it now with masking tape but it actually does not come out perfect seam. It always overlaps because of the thickness of the material. This is why I can not use that here.
Why not:
  1. Wrap the tube with masking tape (use multiple strips if needed to cover the length of the tube).
  2. Cut the tape along the tube (like you normally do for a label).
  3. Peel the masking tape off.
  4. Stick the rectangle of tape to the material you want to cut to size.
  5. Cut it to match the tape.
That should take care of the material thickness issue.
 

jttheclockman

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Why not:
  1. Wrap the tube with masking tape (use multiple strips if needed to cover the length of the tube).
  2. Cut the tape along the tube (like you normally do for a label).
  3. Peel the masking tape off.
  4. Stick the rectangle of tape to the material you want to cut to size.
  5. Cut it to match the tape.
That should take care of the material thickness issue.
Eric, I have used this method in the past and it works ok but the problems arise is exactness. getting the edge of the tape on same lines, cutting just on the edge of the tape using a straightedge, hoping the tape did not stretch when taken off. I have not had success with exactness.
 

SteveG

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Try using what finish carpenters use to butt two pieces of molding end-to-end. It is called a scarf joint. The pieces are intentionally overlapped, cut at matching angles, leaving a smooth surface at the joint. If the label you are using is off by a small amount, the nature of the joint allows for the discrepancy. The target would be both accurate AND precise, but if you are going to be off from perfect, shoot for being a little short. If you look up and study the scarf joint, you will see how it is forgiving.

Another suggestion is to use the already suggested methods to produce a pattern as a guide for cutting the label. Then do some test runs. If the result is consistently long or short, adjust the length of the pattern piece. As already stated, you would want to be exact in your cut, but if unable to achieve that, soot for slightly undersized, and let the scarf joint take care of the rest.
 

RDHals

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John I have something you may find useful that provides the measurement you're looking for. It's got both the tube length and circumference for a bunch but not all pens. The other column is for pix, just an ongoing project to convert inches to pix for printer set up.
 

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Wayne

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John,

OK, all of the above posts would work.

I know that Les Elm created a chart that displays sizes per a given kit. He has posted it on many Facebook pen groups. He's also a member here.
 

jttheclockman

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I thank you all and have taken all in consideration. I believe in the end it will come down to trial and error. because well yes numbers on a paper work, unless you have a laser cutting the piece other factors come into play. We see this all the time in woodworking and trim work. That is why you need to sneak up on the actual project. It is on my radar to do. Thanks again. I have bookmarked this thread for future reference. maybe others should too.
 
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